Pocster

Ok - that sounds reasonable. But do I have to trunk right to the end spot ? . Say I have a humidity sensor I wish to place in a ceiling - do I have to trunk directly where I think I want it ? . If when I test the sensor I need to move it ; I re adjust that trunking ? . I guess I’m asking is there any Lea way for the cable going from trunking to device ?

Ok ! . Still sounds like not much fun for the fireman . So pvc trunking with the metal clips . I presume there’s a rule on minimum clip spacing ?

That sounds far easier for me as I need to add as I go and undoubtedly will forget a cable for something. Still don’t get how it can be ok in a fire situation- surely pvc would just melt - then it’s dripping molten plastic and cables falling ???? ?

Another dumb question . As this is all for safety regs how can a pvc conduit be ok ? Metal clips attach it to the timber but during a fire would it not just collapse regardless of the cables in it ? I.e melt

I see . So ( to comply with regs ) I need to come off my timber to get the cat cable to where I want it does it still need to be in conduit at that point ? ( e.g ceiling centre 300mm away from the timber structure) Hope my question is clear

Are you allowed ‘breaks’ in the conduit ? Suppose you’ve got to pull a cable through a long run with many corners . Can you pull it to a break in the conduit ? Then pull it the rest of the way ???

True .

As it’s a pressured unit assume I need a qualified to the correct level plumber for this ? I.e not just any plumber

Yeah seems good . Some of the metal cable trays are a bit cheaper though .

Yeah I know - but aren’t they proportional or some how related ? . A plumber I quickly spoke to said it might be the cistern . Once full as it stops filling that can cause the hammer ...

Nor me!. Reviews of PRV don't seem particularly favourable i.e. set it for 1bar and the pressure creeps up. By reducing the flow though won't I reduce the pressure?. My physics on this not too hot! - I *assume* the 2 are related like volts to amps....... ?

Like this? https://www.toolstation.com/pressure-reducing-valve-and-gauge/p11827

Ah!; so what is the solution?

Was going to keep mains separate anyway. So for my cat6 this method is acceptable?

Yeah it's definitely water hammer. So this means inlet pressure too high? There is a stop tap feeding the toilet and water heater - is it as simple as turn that down a bit?

So is this mockup wrong ? Couldn’t find any cable on site for love nor money ; typically ! . Improvised with a broom ?. Did find by luck some ‘banding’ - once I saw @Nickfromwales link I knew what we were talking about .

I can confirm that washing machine waste pipe fits lovely in a 25mm hole . 15mm Hep2o glides through ! Was it @Barney12 or @joe90 I need to thank for this tip ?

Yeah so I am correct . I just use the metal straps to fix cables to the timber ? @Nickfromwales says there’s more to it than that though .

Man flu gets the best of us @Onoff ; oh and us !

Oh spill the illicit knowledge wise one , please ?

Ok. I'll check tomorrow - if it doesn't seem like that I'll put a video up. Cheers

The water heater is above the sink . This type of thing https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/elson-3kw-compact-water-heater-ehw3/ Why would it happen all of a sudden though? ; been there for many years.

Back to this as it seems simplest. So I just lie my cat5 cables across rafters or whatever then strap some bands at discreet distances apart ; screwed to the timbers; yeah?

Can only go by what he’s told me . The water heater buzzes directly after toilet flushed . You’re being too technical for me with man flu !

Ok ! I’ve not been to look at this yet but ... At the top of the house loft room . When tenant flushed toilet wall mounted water heater ( one of those crap things ) buzzes . Only way to stop it is open the cold tap . This has only just started happening- i’m Assuming some air / vacuum issue ????