Pocster

Not sure where to post this. My ASHP installer has said I need an EPC/SAP calculation to qualify for the RHI soon. As the builds not complete I assume I can't get a 'full' EPC? Before the build began the architect made me get a SAP calculation off the plans. I have this document. But the build has changed e.g. it's larger , also the original plan was a pellet boiler but now it's an ASHP. So I'm confused as to what I need exactly . Also *presume* I need someone to physically attend to do some form of EPC as off plan won't be accurate. I assume I need my SAP rating to be as high as possible to increase the RHI Any help appreciated

Agree - this is the non diy way and must cost a good chunk of cash . If it’s all warranted then that is a massive added bonus . Diy v’s professional Though I deliberately got my concrete poured as one to avoid any ‘gaps’ between the structure . ?

No i think from memory bco wanted 3 ‘things’ - so I have an external land drain around the build ( a pipe with holes in ? ) , plastic sheeting over the external walls below ground ( can guarantee it would of ripped ) . In my opinion these things are all pointless as can and will fail . Then of course the ‘real’ waterproofing of the dimpled membrane on the walls and floor leading to an internal perimeter drain and then the sump .

I was told at the start that 100% water proof concrete did not exist . I spoke to a rep at cemex . So I was surprised! . Best approach is manage water - don’t try and keep it out .

I used these . They are excellent quality !

I also recommend them !

Ok - got it ?

I think I’ve got some of those on-site so I can test that .

Looking at my own photo ( not on site ) do I not want a female to hep20 connector that simply screws into this part ( I can see it has an internal thread ) ?

But there’s no rubbish . It’s simply eclectic organised chaos

@PeterW @ProDave Ok ! I’ve got what you guys mean . Monday I’ll remove all the nuts/washers off the taps . I’ll fit just that end ( grub screw bit ) onto the taps . Then I can see as you’ve said how much diameter I have left for a fitting . Hep20 would be much preferred . You would of thought they’d supply some instructions with the shroud . Help much appreciated- getting there !!

Ok ! Right undid the grub screw - the end comes off but no fittings . But now the tap can fit in the shroud and presumably also a fitting on the thread . I then assume the grub screw bites into ‘something’ to hold the tap on the shroud . No instructions with shroud

No f ing way !!! . ??

Ok ! I’m confused !! Shroud feet no problem Shroud has internal thread the other end - which screws directly on the base of the tap . I can’t work out what’s wrong here - the taps or the shroud . Can’t see anyway you can get a fitting on the tap and in the shroud ?

Tomorrow I will prove my potential stupidity- place your bets ...

There’s literally about 8 “ how to install “ guides with the taps .

Now I’m sat here thinking if I’ve been a k n o b . Please no-one quote that and answer yes ! Is it possible I had the shroud pipe up the wrong way ? . So the shroud threaded end goes into whatever bolts it to the floor . The non threaded end goes upto the tap - leaving the tap thread free for a connection . It’s possible . I only looked at them once ... Erm , amateur error !! maybe ..... ??

Yes ! This is what I think I discovered!!! Will grab photos of the shrouds tomorrow.

Not looked at the waste mechanism . The instructions come with a multitude of install options. This was sold as a floor mounted bath filler i.e. in the showroom the 'deck' taps are on the shrouds. Haven't got the bath yet - so that's a separate issue. I think I need to look at the shrouds again next time on site. I *assumed* you just screw a compression joint onto that thread - then run a pipe ( copper/hep2o whatever ) down inside the shroud.....

Hmmmmmm, I'm still confused. The shroud screws up over the thread. So a compression fitting just goes in the tap pipe end????

Right ! Seller has got back to me ! Apparently it has to be copper going up through the shroud to add stability then a compression joint into the actual tap . Bum - I want to Hep2o everything ! Photo of taps to follow later - then direction to exactly what compression valve I need + copper ( I always use Jtm plumbing - bum raise they like helping idiots ! ) Then I presume below the floor - copper to Hep2o

Feel almost like a pro today !

Ah ok - wasn’t going to change the hot to 10mm - bit late for that

Now I’m sure everyone told me 15mm min !! ?

I certainly have a BIG one ??