Pocster

Didn’t have any on site . But based on the wavin measurements should fit ! So ordered . Shroud o/e is 35mm . ?

I used the hollow concrete blocks . You lay dry , thread rebar in them - then do one mega pour at the end . It was high labour for me - but not particularly expensive.

It’s mental that the incentive is around the wrong way . If I’ve spent more and produced a more efficient house the reward should be more not less . I’ll double check that 2022 March - still better get my skates on ?

Oh man ! These are not things I want ! . No time bombs . I’ll see what sap / mcs guy want in detail

Thinking about this . What constitutes a ‘completed build’ ??? . Structure etc. Is complete so it’s epc rating wouldn’t be effected by anything I have yet to finish . Could I not get a new EPC as is ? I.e domestic visit ??

This is where I am confused as the mcs installer said there was a sap/epc lite - that could be used . I took this to mean the ‘off plan’ sap I have ......

Didn’t realise old sap and new sap were different. So as I’m not complete but I am ‘built’ what exactly does my mcs guy need to qualify the ASHP for rhi ? . Apart from change pellet boiler to ASHP of course .

Right . So ...... I really just need my old SAP to be classed as ‘ as built ‘ . I’ve magically forgotten any improvements I have done . So technically I’m not altering my SAP ? Guess it depends on what proof sap company require to change it to ‘as built’ then the mcs guy will be happy .

So if I go back to the firm that produced the original sap can they change it to “ as built “ ? Will they accept confirmation of ‘ as built’ from bco and/ or architect ? Also should I mention the changes ? I.e the improvements- or just ‘forget’ them ?

But won’t that increase my epc rating which I don’t want ? Also to ‘prove’ any improvements he’d need to do a site visit . I don’t care what epc rating I get as I know the house in reality is higher than that - want maximum rhi though

So I want a low score sap so rhi is more ? My old SAP puts us as a C .... Shall I just use this SAP for the ashp mcs accredited installer ?

Not sure where to post this. My ASHP installer has said I need an EPC/SAP calculation to qualify for the RHI soon. As the builds not complete I assume I can't get a 'full' EPC? Before the build began the architect made me get a SAP calculation off the plans. I have this document. But the build has changed e.g. it's larger , also the original plan was a pellet boiler but now it's an ASHP. So I'm confused as to what I need exactly . Also *presume* I need someone to physically attend to do some form of EPC as off plan won't be accurate. I assume I need my SAP rating to be as high as possible to increase the RHI Any help appreciated

Agree - this is the non diy way and must cost a good chunk of cash . If it’s all warranted then that is a massive added bonus . Diy v’s professional Though I deliberately got my concrete poured as one to avoid any ‘gaps’ between the structure . ?

No i think from memory bco wanted 3 ‘things’ - so I have an external land drain around the build ( a pipe with holes in ? ) , plastic sheeting over the external walls below ground ( can guarantee it would of ripped ) . In my opinion these things are all pointless as can and will fail . Then of course the ‘real’ waterproofing of the dimpled membrane on the walls and floor leading to an internal perimeter drain and then the sump .

I was told at the start that 100% water proof concrete did not exist . I spoke to a rep at cemex . So I was surprised! . Best approach is manage water - don’t try and keep it out .

I used these . They are excellent quality !

I also recommend them !

Ok - got it ?

I think I’ve got some of those on-site so I can test that .

Looking at my own photo ( not on site ) do I not want a female to hep20 connector that simply screws into this part ( I can see it has an internal thread ) ?

But there’s no rubbish . It’s simply eclectic organised chaos

@PeterW @ProDave Ok ! I’ve got what you guys mean . Monday I’ll remove all the nuts/washers off the taps . I’ll fit just that end ( grub screw bit ) onto the taps . Then I can see as you’ve said how much diameter I have left for a fitting . Hep20 would be much preferred . You would of thought they’d supply some instructions with the shroud . Help much appreciated- getting there !!

Ok ! Right undid the grub screw - the end comes off but no fittings . But now the tap can fit in the shroud and presumably also a fitting on the thread . I then assume the grub screw bites into ‘something’ to hold the tap on the shroud . No instructions with shroud

No f ing way !!! . ??

Ok ! I’m confused !! Shroud feet no problem Shroud has internal thread the other end - which screws directly on the base of the tap . I can’t work out what’s wrong here - the taps or the shroud . Can’t see anyway you can get a fitting on the tap and in the shroud ?