Thorfun

don't worry. he told me you're on the naughty list.

£7 in the first 24hrs according to the Melcloud app and it's running 24/7. 20kWh input and approx 100kWh output. so first day was a COP of 5 which I'm very happy with. and last time I went to check the basement was up to 15.6°C so it's getting to the point where a commercial dehumidifier would start to make sense. but, for now, we have a couple of smaller dehumidifiers that are doing a job.

didn't know whether to laugh or cry at that one!

Thank you. Very useful information.

Merry Christmas and good luck next year. If we’re lucky we might be in our new place for next Christmas. And by lucky I mean winning the lottery tonight! 😂

hi all. now I've got my flooded basement under control and it's heating up and drying out I'm back thinking about this subject again. I have calculated my Cat6a requirements so that's all sorted. I've decided to use the Whitewing RGB dimmer. I've calculated my voltage drop for the longest run and I'm good with 1.5mm cable. so, for my RGBW strips I was going to run the attached data sheet Dali 5-core 1.5mm cable. DALI Lighting Cable 05Z1Z1-F Class Cca s1b d2 a1.pdf this ticks my boxes for CPR rating for LSOH/LSZH cable that I'm using throughout. it's more expensive that Eca rated cable but I'm trying to stick to my guns with the ratings for as much of my cable as possible. So, my question is, this cable is perfect for the RGBW led strips, right? I believe that @joth said in another thread that he used the Dali 5-core cable for his LED strips which is what led me to research it. One more question as well, I was planning on using Cat6a for my one-wire runs around the house as well. I know it's really overkill but I think the U/FTP Cat6a would allow better screening than a UTP Cat5e and, tbh, it's not too much more expensive. what did others use for their one-wire controls? And, finally, what cable did people use to 'jumper' within the Loxone cabinet?

Our groundworkers used a block cutter to cut our EPS200/300 under our slab.

I’ve done that before as well. It is a very good reminder for me to do it again! Thank you.

i've set the flow temp to 30°C for now. will see in the morning what temperature the basement is at! 🙂

yeah. it is getting there. we can still see the tide mark but it's just darn cold down there although it was hovering around the 9°C - 10°C mark constantly even during the cold snap we've just had so it's not all bad! but with some heat down there now the damp will evaporate and the warmer air will hold more of the moisture and the dehumidifiers will be more efficient. i'm keen to get it all dried out so we can put our stuff back down there and carry on with first fix. we can't really do much at the moment as the ground floor and first floor are full of boxes and stuff lying around waiting to be put back in to storage.

ok thanks. so i can crank up the temperature a bit more than 20°C. The house isn't airtight yet so ventilation shouldn't be an issue, plus we will be running dehumidifiers to assist in removing the moisture in the air as it evaporates.

greetings all. i managed to find someone to install my ASHP and it is now up and running. all that's plumbed in at the moment is the UFH in the basement. i've started it out at a flow temp of 20°C and the plan was to ramp it up by 5°C every week to aid in the drying out. The screed was laid Feb 2022 so it's been down for quite a while now. my question to you all is "Is it still necessary to do a gradual drying out regime?". Factors to consider are that the flood water would've got under the screed and in to the PIR i would presume. Also, i would presume that the concrete screed also absorbed quite a bit of water. would that absorbed water increase the risk of cracking the screed even this far down the line from laying? can i bump up the flow temperature more rapidly?

so it wasn't the controller at all. my troubleshooting included taking it apart and plugging a 9V battery onto it and it jumped in to life. i checked the power at the FTC6 end at the connector block and there wasn't any power going to the connector block. after going through the manual i saw it stated to ensure the ASHP was turned on before the Controller. so i went and checked the isolator and that was on but when i checked the CU the RCBO for the ASHP was turned off! doh! turned the ASHP and controller is now working and ASHP is running. i do forgive the installers for missing the fact that the ASHP wasn't powered on. it was quite late yesterday evening after a long day that they were commissioning it and were amazing at getting the install fitted in before the Christmas break so it's all good in the end. glad i didn't have to buy another controller and we can now get the screed warmed up in the basement to help with drying it out.

evening. resurrecting this briefly to see if anyone else has come across this at all? my Ecodan ASHP and UVC has been installed and they went to commission it and no power to the remote control unit. it was subjected to the recent flooding event I had so the conclusion from the installers was that it must be broken due to the flooding. I've brought the remote controller in and put it in the airing cupboard overnight and will try again in the morning but I was wondering if anyone else had any things for me to try before I get the installers to get a new controller.

my wife has a Cricut for her arts and crafts needs. obviously not the same as a milling machine but it cuts stuff out and says it can do engraving after a fashion. i've not really looked at it tbh but she likes hers. https://cricut.com/en-gb/compare

oh...I'm so over it all now. but at the time I was incensed! although I wish they'd told me at the time to contact @craig rather than just saying 'no' as I was already talking to him about windows. oh well, I know for next time. 😉

that's a hard question to answer as one person's reasonable could be another's pricey. I think you'd need to get a quote for what you need as the price will depend on those requirements. personally I was happy with the cost and had already budgeted for it and designed for them to built in to the fabric of the building. @craig mentioned in another thread that he can supply Roma blinds without the need to have the Gaulhoffer windows so give him a shout to discuss your needs. otherwise you could try a.n.other manufacturer to find a local supplier. even though our house isn't finished yet when I lowered the blinds last summer it made quite a dramatic impact on the internal temperature by keeping the sun at bay. so if you're worried about overheating (and anyone building a new house to high insulation levels should be!) then seriously consider external blinds. In fact, I believe that overheating needs to be considered now as part of building regulations. just can't remember the Part letter off the top of my head.

I didn't go with Warema in the end. used a local company called Powell blinds and ended up with Trojan blinds we're not in the house yet but they definitely feel sturdy and don't seem to let a lot of light in but we've not tried sleeping in there so can't say about it for that. Warema only offer through a single supplier who I had issues with but you might have better luck. a bit about our blind install here

seems reasonable to me. never heard of Eurener panels but I'm no expert. I would, however, get a couple of other quotes for comparison and then you can make an informed decision.

i bought mine from ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333714806299) but they were only £104.99 at that time. have gone up a tenner since.

install them in your basement. I've heard it's the done thing. just keep them off the floor in case of flooding events!

I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong but this sounds like you want to airtight outside the windows before cladding/rendering. Your airtight layer is internal. The outside of the building needs to breathe. I guess I could’ve got the wrong end of the stick for what you’re talking about here though.

don't forget to ensure your CIL exemption is signed off before commencing/demolishing! the last thing you want it to be hit with a massive bill for CIL.

thanks. sorry to hear about your problems too! I'll take a look at their alarms but I have a high water alarm, plus a Shelley flood detector, plus I plan on (as per @pocster's recommendation) notifying my HA system when the second pump is running as that would indicate an issue with the first pump. I'm very confident that my new solution will do the job and will check the pumps annually (if not more regularly) like @pocster suggests. fortunately for us I guess, the basement probably won't be finished for another couple of years so I have that period of time to test the new solution. 😉

🤣