Thorfun

thanks for this. I'll check it out. I've no doubt that a one-wire from the sump back to Loxone will allow me to alert/text/blare a warning siren out over the home speakers if water hits a certain level. I kind of wanted something short term until I can get the home automation working.

thank you. will definitely check that out.

thanks for this. I've been thinking about my double pump setup and whether I have 2 pumps at the same level so they 'share' the load or if I have them at different heights for a redundant solution? I think we were simply really unlucky on this one. an old cheap pump combined with many deluges of rain and no safety precautions in place. but, in saying that, I might opt for a double pump at the same level AND one at a higher level (our sump is about 2m deep so can accommodate this I think). then we'll need to have 3 pumps fail and be a LONG way from home for it to be an issue ever again. ps. will check out the Zoellar pumps. thanks for the tip.

Ironically, in the summer when we were having the drought and my sump was pretty dry I started researching pumps with the thought to get them installed while it was dry. I looked at this site and was tempted by the Ebara pumps that @ProDave recommended. this one in fact. https://www.pumpsukltd.com/ebara-best-one-m-s-tube-float.html but never got around to pulling the trigger on the purchase. something I am seriously regretting right now!

hi all. woke up to a nightmare today as the single pump in our sump failed last night and with all the rain and underground water our sump filled, overflowed and found it's way (I believe it was under the sliding door) in to our basement. we were using the basement as a storage area for our household belongings that are waiting for the house to be finished. stuff has been ruined and we can't do much about that now but it has really pushed my need for quality pumps that have a reduced risk of failure that I can use for the sump. I have temporarily replaced the failed pump with a Titan pump from SF just to get back to a normal state but I want to get the proper ones in as soon as I possibly can. Can anyone please recommend a good pump make/model for a sump? I want to create a dual pump system for redundancy. Also, I need to create a high water alarm. eventually that should feed in to our proposed Loxone system but, for now, I want to run something that sits in the sump and runs up a long (4m) cable to the top of some heras fencing we have around the basement courtyard with a light on the end so that as we look out if we see a light on we know that something is up! I'm happy to build my own if someone can give assistance on components to use and wiring diagrams. I know it's all a bit like closing the stable door after the horse has bolted but I really don't want to go through another day like we have done today. it's definitely not been a good day. 😭

I would be really surprised if it's going through staples and where the battens are attached as it didn't for us but I have been wrong many times before. it's not something stupid like the membrane lapped incorrectly? so the higher strip is behind the lower strip?

I'd suggest they're talking b*****s. our TF was watertight once the roof and windows were in. we used black membrane and no water got in through it. are you sure the water is coming through the membrane? could it be rolling down the membrane and then hitting the dpc and going in under the sole plate?

awesome. thank you. just working through a LED strip spreadsheet so I can calculate power/current values. need to save money so looking at buying direct from Aliexpress!

hi all. qq (and this is going to sound very stupid and I 'think' I already know the answer but here goes anyway). with LED strips that have, for example, 12W/m power rating. if they're dimmed I presume that the power usage will drop accordingly. e.g. if you dim to 50% will the power usage be 6W/m? and, follow up question, can you limit the maximum brightness of a strip/light fitting within Loxone? so I could permanently ensure that a 12W/m LED strip never gets pushed up to that maximum when the kids are ******* around with stuff.

that's a fair point

ps. I'm not changing my main lighting to 24V no matter what you all say. 😛

please don't apologise and please don't stop the discussions! If I even glean one nugget from the conversations I'll be happy and it'll all be worth it. 🙂

the problem with using someone else's prices is that it seems that companies quote differently for different people. if you read enough window costing threads on here you'll see this pattern. for some Rationel will be cheap but for other expensive. others will find Internorm are stupidly expensive but others' quotes are more reasonable. I think the best thing to do is to get quotes from various suppliers and then choose the best price/performance/style point for you. we did just that and it soon became apparent which would could dismiss and which were moved to our shortlist. also, visit the suppliers at shows to see the quality of the windows. some we just discounted out of hand as we didn't think the quality was all that but others we thought we'd happily pay a premium for that sort of quality and also pay more for great customer service (can't really put a price on that!) in the end we went with Norrsken who were brilliant. good quality windows/sliders and a reasonable price and excellent customer service. they also fit them so we had one company do it all. I'm not surprised Alu-clad windows have gone up in price though when you think of how much timber has increased in price recently.

have you spoken to Mike about this? maybe if it's the dimmer then he could fix it in a firmware update?

yeah, I've already got one of those too. can't wait for the day that I can get all of this wired up and we have a finished house to use them all in!

exactly this! I'm very happy to support a local company and pay a little more. plus it hasn't had to be shipped half way around the world. think that might be decision made on this one then. just need to run the calculations with regards to total current for each bank of led strips to make sure it'll work.

right. I get it now. the +ve in each group is used to power 3 single-colour led strips in that connector giving the, from my understanding, ability to run 48 single-colour led strips! assuming the total current does not exceed 12A per bank of 4 connectors. the more I learn about this dimmer the more I love it! I think I might have found my solution. 🥳

this statement is correct. the +ve pin can't be used for anything other than power.

forgot to mention that Mike said the following when asked about using the RGB dimmer for WW. "The dimmer will drive any constant-voltage strip. For single-colour, you need to common up the +ve for each group of 3 on one connector" so that sounds like one of these 48 channel RGB dimmers can run 16 single-colour led strips? although, tbh, I'm not entirely sure what 'common up the +ve for each group of 3 on one connector' actually means! nor how to wire it. but I'm keen to learn. 😉

Mike responded and you have to spread 3 RGBW across 4 connectors. e.g. RGB WRG BWR GBW. I guess that means it can run 12 RGBW led strips (Amperage permitting) on the one unit. which at £250 for the dimmer makes it £21/RGBW strip. makes it quite a bargain! (again, presuming I've done my maths correctly (please see previous disclaimer about my A-levels ) so I can only presume that the '+' pin is solely for power and nothing else. I have asked the question though and will see what he says.

sounds like an expensive solution then. I'd be tempted to risk the flickering of the 123Hz PWM from Loxone instead! don't suppose you have any insight on those D4 dimmers from Aliexpress do you? thank you for confirming. you'd never believe that I did A-level physics would you! but, I did get an 'E' and spent more time larking around that learning so I'm not surprised I don't know much.

I wish you the best of luck!

photos? 🙂

I sent an email to Mike and will see what he says. but I've also been looking at these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32734822895.html that were mentioned in an article that @Dan F sent me about Loxone PWM frequencies and flicker. they seem too good to be true, right? £22 for each RGBW led strip seems stupidly cheap. I know that @joth had some S1-DR units which were supposed to be a little flakey but has anyone actually used one of these 4-channel drivers? the spec says 4A per channel so that would more than cover the 8A for a 10m run of 19.2W/m RGBW LED strip, right? and that's without running 2 x 5m strips in parallel (or have I got that wrong and do you add the 4A for each strip when running in parallel to get the same 8A as a single 10m run?) our WW Led strips are actually only 6 locations but some locations have a couple of strips or more, e.g. around a mirror, within bookshelves, around edge of false ceilings etc. so it sounds like I can buy 4 of these things and for under £100 I could run our entire 24V led strips. am I missing something here?

ok thanks. I see you what you mean. so a 5-core cable from the terminal block in the cabinet to the led strip and then a cable from the PSU to the +ve on the terminal block and one pin from each block on the whitewing to the RGBW wires of the 5-core on the terminal block. starting to make sense now! and yeah, an email to Mike might be useful! I'm also wondering if I could use the RGB dimmer for just Warm White LED strips? just use 2 of the 4 pins? I know he has a 32 channel LED DMX driver but if I could amalgamate our LED strips to use one controller it'd save money!