Thorfun

isn't that what trunking is for? 😉

Our plasterer did the boarding and skim. But he did say they don’t often board as the builder does it and they just turn up and plaster.

I’d like a way to isolate a rooms lighting so if changing a fitting I don’t have to turn the entire house/floor off.

Thanks. Out of interest, in the 8yrs how many times have you needed to isolate the Loxone cabinet from the CU? Seems that once it’s set up it’s not something that would happen often.

I don’t get this. Just open the (expletive deleted) window if you want it open! 🤷‍♂️ as @ProDave said having MVHR doesn’t mean you can’t open a window.

the battery system is already installed. not sure where it sits in relation to the surge protection though tbh! my sparky just wired it up for me and it seems to work! 🤣 but the batteries are on the house side of the CU. if you're interested I can try and map it out but it wouldn't be until the weekend as the day job keeps getting in the way of things. this is the single most compelling argument to do it that way! what size RCBO do you have feeding the Loxone cabinet? I presume it needs to be quite beefy? maybe 2 x smaller ones might be a good way to go so that only half the cabinet will fail if one of the CU RCBO trips? @Rob99? how do you do your customer's setups? I'm pretty sure I remember from @joth's photos that he also has RCBOs in the Loxone cabinet. @jack? how's yours done? anyone else care to comment? I only tagged the above as they're in the top posters in this topic 😉

my plasterer was labour only. I bought materials as and when required. I bought a load at the beginning and when that started to get low he told me how much more to buy and my local BM could deliver within a couple of days at the most so it worked well and we didn't have to have all the materials on site in one go.

I was thinking of doing it your way but my CU is right next to the Loxone cabinet and it is a big CU with lots of ways (18 + 20 https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4780675-18-20-dual-row-100a-isolator-incomer-metal-clad-consumer-unit-with-type-2-spd) and so I figure I have the space in the CU and my sparky was ok with that too. I will, of course, double check with him again about the best way to do it all. for my 24V stuff I have the Loxone PSUB which is rather large and takes up a large portion of the bottom row in the cabinet so there's not a huge amount of room left for RCBOs. Once I've drawn up my cabinet layout I'll post it up for comment/criticism.

awesome. the track light will be on the same RCBO from the CU so no worries there then. thanks for the advice on the correct cross-connectors! cheers. will double check with my sparky before i do so just in case he wants them terminated somewhere. not yet! got a load of tri-rated cable and stuff ready to get going. just going through a spreadsheet to figure out how many terminal blocks i need and of what type before searching for the best price and making the purchase. i have a couple of weeks off in the New Year so am hoping to get second fix electrics and the Loxone cabinet sorted at that time so will be purchasing soon to ensure i get delivery before Christmas. Haven't got around to configuring a Windows VM yet so not used the Weidmuller software. not sure i'll have time to tbh so will figure it out in a spreadsheet! 🤣

I should probably re-read my own thread more often! that answers the question for RGBW LED strips. 🤦‍♂️ but can someone let me know if it's ok to jumper across terminal blocks for the 3 circuit track lighting? I see it something like this on the external side: TB1 TB2 TB3 L1 L2 L3 N ---- N ---- N E ---- E ----- E and then on the internal side I connect a relay output to each of TB1, TB2 and TB3 to allow individual control of each circuit on the track. I just don't know if it's allowed to jumper the Neutral between the terminal blocks. obviously the Earth is common across the everything, right? so, once again I read further up (what an idiot!) and @joth has mentioned using the busbars to common across the neutrals so I guess it's ok. I was thinking of using the tri-rated cable to jumper across but the busbars seem much safer I guess. qq on this one. what do you do with the earth wire on the T&E when using for 24V and using a terminal block without an earth? do you just cut it off? or put a Wago block on the end to ensure nothing touches it? I will make sure I re-read the whole thread again as I obviously forget stuff that has been written before. sorry about that! I have a million things going around my head with everything still to be done on the build.

I don't understand this statement. I thought you had a good 4 or 5 years left to go?

so I think I've answered my own question on this one. even though I've run 3-core and Earth cable I only actually need 3-cores for CCT Leds as 24V leds don't need to be earthed, right? so by using the AMC 2.5 terminal blocks I can use warm white, cold white and 24V+ and just ignore the earth connector.

I got ours as part of our site insurance

I also have CCT LED lights with 4-core cable. what terminal blocks would I use for that one? is that the AMC 2.5 ones on the Loxone website that are for blinds and motors?

evening all. working through the plan of cabinet and have a quick question. how do I go about terminating a 5-core cable that will be used for a 3-circuit track light? would I use a terminal block that has the 5 connectors (L1, L2, L3, N and Earth) or use the standard terminal block that has LNE and common across the neutrals and earths or each block? I guess I have a similar question for the RGBW led lights! I've run 5-core cable from the cabinet. should I just get 5-way terminal blocks?

i agree with doing as much as you can yourselves but, in my opinion, some jobs are just best left to the professionals.

just to add another side to this argument as we've had 2 trades do this. our flat roofer gave us a quote which we accepted and he then fessed up that he mis-measured and wouldn't need as much seedum as he quoted for and charged me less. i would never have known and it shows his integrity (and which is why i have recommended him elsewhere!). and our tiler gave us a quote that we were happy with and accepted and then at the end of the job he said he hadn't used as much material as he initially thought he'd need and gave money off the quote. so, just to counter that there ARE good people out there. 🙂

my 2 cents.....have you considered hiring a professional? looks like a great plot and what you've drawn looks like it was done by someone without any architectural experience. for me it's a shame to try and design a house on your own especially if it's not your day job! i know folk on here have done, in my mind, it should be left to the professionals. either that or persuade @ETC to come up with some ideas and the ones i've seen before have been ace! but then he is a professional. 😉

Is WD40 the best thing to use here? Wouldn’t something like IPA be better as it evaporates and doesn’t leave a residue? edit. I now realise you weren’t using WD40 to clean. 🤦‍♂️

If you’re having external blinds then they will do the job of the brise soleil and shade the southerly sun in the summer. Although you would have to manually adjust them unless automating it. if you’re going the brise soleil route the get your SE/professional team involved early on as they will need to be designed in.

+1 I think the internal blinds are to reduce heat loss rather than overheating. 🤷‍♂️

yeah. I used glass wool between the rafters and then put PIR below. I thought you said you were putting 30mm PIR underneath the rafters which is probably where my confusion is coming from! so I just presumed you were doing the same as we did which is why I questioned about filling the loft void!

my HRC is 10mm, the hot pipes are 15mm from manifold to outlet with about 15m being the longest run. I'm sure we'll be fine. 😉

cheers guys. SWMBO was doing it and Googled a 4-to-1 mix so just did that. seems to have worked.

nice one. any guesses at PVA to water ratio for this type of application?