Thorfun

there's no such thing as a daft question! we need doors for building regulations. we did toy with the idea of putting something up to satisfy BR and then taking them down again but also realised that the kitchen/diner leads on to a large open vaulted hallway which the bedrooms are off. so if someone is having a dinner party or other social gathering then anyone in the bedrooms may be disturbed so figured if we can get glazed doors we can close off if required to assist with reducing the noise levels. IF we'd made the decision earlier I could easily have not run the ufh pipes so close to the jamb and this problem would've gone away. but that's just another example of a small decision having a bigger impact later on down the line because I don't really know what I'm doing! such is the life of a self-builder.

yep. I have an IR camera so I can see where the pipes are but I don't know exactly how much cover they have! it should be 25mm plus about 15mm for the tiles etc so it 'should' be safe to fix down 40mm but I'm very reluctant to take that risk! the last thing I want is to go too far and pierce my ufh pipes as that's a world of pain that I want to stay a million miles away from. I could indeed potentially just drill through the tile and use that pin and a glue to belt and braces it. I'm also thinking a really strong adhesive rather than something 'normal' from my BM. I'm also wondering if the fact that the doors will most likely be permanently open so won't be opening and closing much so how much movement on the bottom pivot will there actually be?

greetings. we are looking to install some folding internal French doors in a 2.7m gap between the hallway and kitchen (requirement for building regulations). I have found these https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/jci-fsc-internal-unfinished-fold-flat-door-set-2-7m-JCIL0048 which fit the opening but while reading the installation instructions have seen an issue that we would need to get over if we were to buy them. at the junction of door jambs and floor there are 2 x pivots that need to be mechanically fixed to the floor. that's fine at one end but at the other end our UFH pipes run under the 50mm screed and so I can't mechanically fix there. the finished tiles are in place so what would my options be to fix that pivot to the tiles while still giving enough security to hold in place to take the weight of the doors? there must be some kind of adhesive that would do the job?

There are other makes of copper pushfit. I used copper from Hep2o bend to JG brass elbow. All push fit.

my chippie mentioned something about fitting battens that the sink lip sits on. not sure if that's possible or any good for you?

I hope so!

I listened master. 40mm coming through the block and beam straight in to a 50mm bend and then 50mm all the way to the soil pipe.

this is what we got for the kids bathrooms. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/168379.htm wanted recessed so as to give more a sense of space as they're not huge en-suites. not cheap though. here's a photo of the bathroom with the hole ready for the cabinet to be fitted once the room was tiled and painted.

We have recessed mirror cabinets (although yet to fit them). Not sure where they came from as the better half bought them. I’ll try and find out and let you know.

looks pissed to me

yes indeed. and i was inspired by the buildup from MBC which was on their website. yes but, for me, it was a cost i couldn't justify so late in the build as our budget has well and truly gone out of the window. 2"x1" battens can split but we piloted and countersunk every single batten. i bought a cheap table drill and we setup a system from chop saw to drill which worked quite nicely.

not got any concrete above ground! and for the basement i'll probably metal frame the walls so will all be plasterboarded anyway.

not really very wife friendly on appearance though

you've really gotta go with what your sparky wants tbh. but take a look at https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html and you can calculate the minimum cable size for the distance of cable.

I 100% do! see my previous post stating

i look forward to seeing how it looks in your kitchen

2 x ovens for cooking meals in. also one child has an allergy so for some foods we need to cook separately. 1 x microwave. then 3 ovens wouldn't look right so to even it out we got a steam oven as well. makes everything look aligned and appeals to our compulsive natures.

10mm to the induction hob (11kW iirc) for us and 2.5mm feed for each oven (yes 4 cables!). Each will have an isolation switch in a kitchen unit.

Happy wife, happy life.

ours is done.

when will it be finished?

yeah. i tried to use as few joints as possible and any joints i did use are in the room. so it's solid hep2o from manifold to room. sometimes it just wasn't possible to bend the hep2o.

that's actually what we did for most of them as i already had cables and pipe run when i found out about the 300mm centres. 400mm might be ok but maybe check with the manufacturer of your chosen backer board, or with your tiler as i'm sure they'll have the experience to know.

the 20mm backer board is making it harder for you i think as that's an extra 8mm you need to bring the socket out by. we noggined at 300mm centres and used 12mm backer board. it wasn't too painful to do tbh. not sure on the price difference between 12mm and 20mm and then the cost of the timber.

here's how i did mine. hep2o to copper just felt right and it's solid. i'm sure @Pocster won't agree with it though.