Thorfun

Actually we put our conduit within the insulation under the screed so didn’t have to worry about depth of screed. sorry, forgot about that!

Welcome and congratulations. Exciting times.

We ran in conduit in the screed. Sparky was fine with it. I’d say check with yours in case cable size needs to be increased.

started to finally put all the terminal blocks in. had to move the blind terminal blocks to the 2nd din rail in the end as there just wasn't the room for them on the first rail to also allow for the basement terminal blocks. I'm sure it'll be fine as they're flex rather than rigid cable. and I can run most of the Loxone relay cable up and under the raised din rail that is between the SSRs and blind TBs to save room up the right hand side trunking. I've numbered the 230V terminal blocks from right to left which looks a bit weird but it leaves room for expansion for them or the 8-ways if required and can then keep the numbers contiguous. bit frustrated that I now have to buy Weidmuller numbers for those 14 x 8-way blocks. I might just use my label printer though!

ps. I do have more questions but I'll go easy on you all for now. 😉

oh, and one more question. my rimless toilet came with a flow attenuation thingy to put inline with the flow pipe. should I fit regardless or dry fit the toilet and flush it a few times to see if it's needed before taking off the pan and fitting the attenuator and then fitting the pan properly and siliconing it all in. I don't want to fit the pan and seal it and then have to cut out the silicone to fit the attenuator! but also don't want to fit the attenuator only to find that it's attenuated the flow too much or wasn't required.

qq and looking for a poll really. when fitting a toilet should I go for CT1 behind the pan or those sound insulation pads? and if sound insulation pads generic like this or named brand for the toilet or frame?

way too late for me I'm afraid! already installed and bedded on a thick bead of CT1 along the grout line. I'm sure it'll be fine🤞

we have 2! 😉

our basement courtyard is open to the elements which has caused a few issues as we have an point of ingress for water in to the basement through the courtyard sliding doors (i have a flooded basement thread from Nov 2022 about it). if we didn't need the escape doors then the basement could've been a sealed box with no external penetrations and would greatly reduce the risk of flooding. thankfully we're on top of the ground water removal now so future flooding should not occur! barring catastrophic flood events that is i guess.

knock it down and start again? 😉

ended up just a smidge over 1400mm long and 760mm wide after tiles and shower screen.

if you've already bought the tray then it's a no brainer. fitting the former wasn't hard at all. i bought the Impey Aqua-Dec former which was incredibly easy to fit and is cuttable to trim to size. i put 6mm ply on top of the posi-joists and then the former on top of that and screwed it down. then the tiler came along and put 6mm Jackoboard down so everything was level.

just another perspective here, we cut out the caber deck and fitted shower formers so that the tiles went directly onto the former and everything is level with the rest of the bathroom. we love the sleek look of it. might be something worth considering? unless you specifically want to step up in to a shower that is. 😉

welcome! I'm sure you'll find lots of sage advice here. best of luck with it.

think that'll be a while yet. the UFH and towel rails aren't working yet and so the floor is pretty darn cold. wouldn't really be the luxurious shower we are hoping for!

we have a basement and I was told by the architect that we needed an external escape route to comply with building regulations so we designed one in, and also escape windows/doors at the first floor level. at no point was I told that we could have a misting system to mitigate this need and I was very new to building and didn't know much at that point. if I knew then what I know now I would seriously look in to a misting system (which is I believe standard in Scotland) to mitigate the fire escape requirements.

2 x shower screens completed. the scariest bit was drilling holes in the tiles and to ensure they were in the correct place! that's not something easy to rectify. luckily all worked well.

Hi @joth. I bought 2 of these for my blinds to control them from the WW DMX 24V dimmer. they are the ST8-5DA-N versions. am I correct in assuming that the current usage on the WW to trigger the relay is minimal? i can't see anywhere on the specifications what Wattage the relay uses to trigger.

have you the space to ground mount the PV? would be shame to plonk panels on top of that beautiful roof!

for our 140mm TF openings plus 30mm for plasterboard either side our chippie made our door linings from 25mm MDF as to buy something ready made would've been hard to do.

in the end I managed to fit a second pipe through the ducting back to the RWH tank and so the discharge will go in to that and back to the tank.

actually @Nickfromwales don't worry as in this post you've put the screen directly on the grout line between the mosaics and normal tiles. so there's got to be no issue with putting the screen on the grout line. I will just ensure I have a nice thick bead of clear CT1 to bed the screen on to and masking tape either side of the grout line. see.....you're such a master that you don't even need to respond to posts anymore! 🤣

tomorrow I will be fitting shower screens. I have read up on the threads about such stuff on here but I have a question for @Nickfromwales if he's around. Nick, I know you've been really busy lately and not been on here much but if you do pop on please can you answer this..... in this post you have put the screen just to the outside of the grout line at the edge of the shower former. is there a specific reason that you didn't put it ON the grout line? I was thinking to put it on the grout line but if the master doesn't do that then I will re-consider. was just wondering on the reasoning behind it. Also, in this post you mention putting masking tape either side of where the glass will hit the floor, yet in the other post you don't use masking tape. is that just because you've done a load of them and are a master and us mere mortals should use the masking tape?

do you need a switch? can you not just use a hub? obviously if you want/need PoE then you'll need a switch but if you're just distributing from the router to each cable that is coming from each room then a hub should do you, no?