Thorfun

awesome. the track light will be on the same RCBO from the CU so no worries there then. thanks for the advice on the correct cross-connectors! cheers. will double check with my sparky before i do so just in case he wants them terminated somewhere. not yet! got a load of tri-rated cable and stuff ready to get going. just going through a spreadsheet to figure out how many terminal blocks i need and of what type before searching for the best price and making the purchase. i have a couple of weeks off in the New Year so am hoping to get second fix electrics and the Loxone cabinet sorted at that time so will be purchasing soon to ensure i get delivery before Christmas. Haven't got around to configuring a Windows VM yet so not used the Weidmuller software. not sure i'll have time to tbh so will figure it out in a spreadsheet! 🤣

I should probably re-read my own thread more often! that answers the question for RGBW LED strips. 🤦‍♂️ but can someone let me know if it's ok to jumper across terminal blocks for the 3 circuit track lighting? I see it something like this on the external side: TB1 TB2 TB3 L1 L2 L3 N ---- N ---- N E ---- E ----- E and then on the internal side I connect a relay output to each of TB1, TB2 and TB3 to allow individual control of each circuit on the track. I just don't know if it's allowed to jumper the Neutral between the terminal blocks. obviously the Earth is common across the everything, right? so, once again I read further up (what an idiot!) and @joth has mentioned using the busbars to common across the neutrals so I guess it's ok. I was thinking of using the tri-rated cable to jumper across but the busbars seem much safer I guess. qq on this one. what do you do with the earth wire on the T&E when using for 24V and using a terminal block without an earth? do you just cut it off? or put a Wago block on the end to ensure nothing touches it? I will make sure I re-read the whole thread again as I obviously forget stuff that has been written before. sorry about that! I have a million things going around my head with everything still to be done on the build.

I don't understand this statement. I thought you had a good 4 or 5 years left to go?

so I think I've answered my own question on this one. even though I've run 3-core and Earth cable I only actually need 3-cores for CCT Leds as 24V leds don't need to be earthed, right? so by using the AMC 2.5 terminal blocks I can use warm white, cold white and 24V+ and just ignore the earth connector.

I got ours as part of our site insurance

I also have CCT LED lights with 4-core cable. what terminal blocks would I use for that one? is that the AMC 2.5 ones on the Loxone website that are for blinds and motors?

evening all. working through the plan of cabinet and have a quick question. how do I go about terminating a 5-core cable that will be used for a 3-circuit track light? would I use a terminal block that has the 5 connectors (L1, L2, L3, N and Earth) or use the standard terminal block that has LNE and common across the neutrals and earths or each block? I guess I have a similar question for the RGBW led lights! I've run 5-core cable from the cabinet. should I just get 5-way terminal blocks?

i agree with doing as much as you can yourselves but, in my opinion, some jobs are just best left to the professionals.

just to add another side to this argument as we've had 2 trades do this. our flat roofer gave us a quote which we accepted and he then fessed up that he mis-measured and wouldn't need as much seedum as he quoted for and charged me less. i would never have known and it shows his integrity (and which is why i have recommended him elsewhere!). and our tiler gave us a quote that we were happy with and accepted and then at the end of the job he said he hadn't used as much material as he initially thought he'd need and gave money off the quote. so, just to counter that there ARE good people out there. 🙂

my 2 cents.....have you considered hiring a professional? looks like a great plot and what you've drawn looks like it was done by someone without any architectural experience. for me it's a shame to try and design a house on your own especially if it's not your day job! i know folk on here have done, in my mind, it should be left to the professionals. either that or persuade @ETC to come up with some ideas and the ones i've seen before have been ace! but then he is a professional. 😉

Is WD40 the best thing to use here? Wouldn’t something like IPA be better as it evaporates and doesn’t leave a residue? edit. I now realise you weren’t using WD40 to clean. 🤦‍♂️

If you’re having external blinds then they will do the job of the brise soleil and shade the southerly sun in the summer. Although you would have to manually adjust them unless automating it. if you’re going the brise soleil route the get your SE/professional team involved early on as they will need to be designed in.

+1 I think the internal blinds are to reduce heat loss rather than overheating. 🤷‍♂️

yeah. I used glass wool between the rafters and then put PIR below. I thought you said you were putting 30mm PIR underneath the rafters which is probably where my confusion is coming from! so I just presumed you were doing the same as we did which is why I questioned about filling the loft void!

my HRC is 10mm, the hot pipes are 15mm from manifold to outlet with about 15m being the longest run. I'm sure we'll be fine. 😉

cheers guys. SWMBO was doing it and Googled a 4-to-1 mix so just did that. seems to have worked.

nice one. any guesses at PVA to water ratio for this type of application?

afternoon. qq. we want to seal the concrete screed before putting down our engineered wood to stop/seal dust. we were thinking of just watering down some PVA. would that do the job or should a 'proper' product be used. and, if so, what do folk recommend? cheers.

But surely the walls are insulated so the insulation to the eaves just carries on down to the wall? I’m still confused as to why you need to do it. Surely insulating the trusses finishes the wrapping of the whole building in insulation?

sure but in a highly airtight house would a mouse/rodent get in? I'm hoping not!!

they look great but they are £6.50 each inc VAT. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-rapid-fix-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-socket-white-with-white-inserts-5-pack/313ph my Hager faceplates cost me £2.11 inc VAT and I had to buy 82 of them. so would've cost me £360 more. now, if I was paying a sparky to do the second fix I would recoup that in time saved on labour for sure but as I'm doing it myself then I can't justify that extra cost. don't get me wrong. I absolutely love the Wago connectors. if only these were a bit cheaper and I hadn't already bought 82 Hager ones I might've been persuaded. 🤣

most pipes will be behind plasterboard. I'd be interested to know how much heat from an uninsulated hot pipe would actually get through plasterboard and a skim! surely minimal, right? is this really the case? we've used plastic throughout anti was my understanding that these lose less heat than copper and so even with a cold pipe sitting next to a hot pipe I'd be amazed if either had a noticeable effect on the other. and for showers in a new build surely the showers would have thermostatic valves in them so as to regulate the temperature and stop the fluctuations? agreed. this is why I was suggesting using a PIR to run the HRC when someone enters a room. I guess as is argued above if the HRC is uninsulated then the tank temp could be affected by putting cool water back in the tank but if the tank is being heated twice a day then I still think we're talking minimal impact on energy use to maintain the tank temperature. btw, I have absolutely no data to back up any of my points! I'm just hypothesising. I'm also not that fussed. if I have to run my ASHP a little extra each day then so be it. during the summer it'll be powered by solar and in the winter it'll be on most the day keeping the ufh at temp anyway. 🤷‍♂️

that was what I thought. and as we're having presence sensors in every bathroom I'm confident I can get our HA system to circulate the HRC when someone enters the bathroom so that hot water is ready once they've finished their business. it might work, it might not! at the end of the day it's not a massive issue if it doesn't and not something I will lose sleep over.

for completeness I prefer two wires in one too. I also double over a single wire so putting both in the single connector means I don't have to worry about folding each single wire. I was just curious what others thought. I did the separate one and then decided I didn't like it as much so all the others are two-in-one. glad I'm in agreement with the majority.

Plastic back boxes here so no link to the back box