Thorfun

yep. porcelain tiles. I wonder if a hole drilled through the tile with a suitable length screw to just go in to the screed by 5mm and then using an angle grinder to grind troughs in to the tile face and then an adhesive/resin. then there's not just a small slither of adhesive between the plate and the tile as the troughs will give the adhesive more depth and also the screw through the tile and to the screed will act as an anchor between the pivot, tile and screed? just need to figure out the strongest adhesive/resin to use. I thought a 2-part resin was the bees knees as it's used to hold threaded bars in place etc?

Welcome! This is definitely the place for all those things you’re after and more!

Yep. And we’ve not got a problem with that! Just need to fix them without puncturing our UFH pipes! 😂

the top mounted pivots will go straight up into the head plate of the opening so no issues at all with that!

I'm 99% sure we don't need fire doors. I have asked again my BCO (along with a stroppy email about not getting a response from them and what am I paying my money for) so hopefully I'll get a definitive answer before 2025. I've looked and looked and looked for alternative but our opening is only 2021mm in height so we are very limited with what we can do and what will fit. most bifolds seem to require an opening of at least 2050mm high and those you linked are 2047mm so won't fit. the JCI ones are pretty much all I'm left with as an option! there are some that require a 2031mm opening and the doors can be trimmed by 20mm but that's making things a little tight and they also don't come in a solution wide enough so we'd have to spend more money reducing the width of the gap.

along those lines these doors (https://www.climadoor.co.uk/downloads/Climadoor-Interior-Frenchfold-Door-System-method-of-build-2018-v5-AW.pdf) have wall mounted pivots for their system. I wonder if we could use something like that? (I can't use the Climadoor system as our opening isn't tall enough and there are many poor reviews online for Climadoor so I made an executive decision to stay away from them)

could definitely be something to talk to the carpenter about! thanks.

I think it's a bit late for a sprinkler system! we have emergency egress windows in all bedrooms and it's it only a two storey dwelling (as I believe the basement doesn't count).

easier said than done as my BCO is s**t and I don't get a response. I will try again though.

ahh...right. I don't believe they need to be fire doors as such but we need to be able to separate the kitchen from the hallway. something about protected exits or some such? I forget the actual building regulation it's meant to satisfy. our BR plans just show doors there.

we want glazed doors to allow the light in to the kitchen area. also want to allow the space to be opened up.

at 40mm thick and 104kg I'd say they're not lightweight!

I believe the idea is that with the resin bonded to the pivot plate AND anchored through the tile to the screed below the whole thing acts like an anchor to resist the lateral movement.

Fire regulations iirc.

I've just had a quick chat with my chippie and he has suggested a possible solution would be to drill 5mm into the screed and use a resin to bond the screws in as well as putting resin under the plate. he also mentioned cutting out a bit of the tile (doesn't have to be the whole size of the pivot plate) so that the resin has a 'base' so to speak. my analogy would be an iceberg. so that the thin layer of resin under the pivot plate would actually go further down forming a solid block to resist the lateral movement of the doors when opening. as such I'm confident that we can make this work. 🙂

that could've worked but the tiles are already down and I won't be able to cut the shape out.

the other option we have is to go for a bifold system like this https://deantawood.co.uk/product/folding-system/. the problem here is that our opening is not high enough so I would need to cut away plaster/plasterboard and then cut down the TF above the opening to accommodate the extra height. which is also a real pain! and which if I'd done the research earlier on this subject could've done before plastering.

there's no such thing as a daft question! we need doors for building regulations. we did toy with the idea of putting something up to satisfy BR and then taking them down again but also realised that the kitchen/diner leads on to a large open vaulted hallway which the bedrooms are off. so if someone is having a dinner party or other social gathering then anyone in the bedrooms may be disturbed so figured if we can get glazed doors we can close off if required to assist with reducing the noise levels. IF we'd made the decision earlier I could easily have not run the ufh pipes so close to the jamb and this problem would've gone away. but that's just another example of a small decision having a bigger impact later on down the line because I don't really know what I'm doing! such is the life of a self-builder.

yep. I have an IR camera so I can see where the pipes are but I don't know exactly how much cover they have! it should be 25mm plus about 15mm for the tiles etc so it 'should' be safe to fix down 40mm but I'm very reluctant to take that risk! the last thing I want is to go too far and pierce my ufh pipes as that's a world of pain that I want to stay a million miles away from. I could indeed potentially just drill through the tile and use that pin and a glue to belt and braces it. I'm also thinking a really strong adhesive rather than something 'normal' from my BM. I'm also wondering if the fact that the doors will most likely be permanently open so won't be opening and closing much so how much movement on the bottom pivot will there actually be?

greetings. we are looking to install some folding internal French doors in a 2.7m gap between the hallway and kitchen (requirement for building regulations). I have found these https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/jci-fsc-internal-unfinished-fold-flat-door-set-2-7m-JCIL0048 which fit the opening but while reading the installation instructions have seen an issue that we would need to get over if we were to buy them. at the junction of door jambs and floor there are 2 x pivots that need to be mechanically fixed to the floor. that's fine at one end but at the other end our UFH pipes run under the 50mm screed and so I can't mechanically fix there. the finished tiles are in place so what would my options be to fix that pivot to the tiles while still giving enough security to hold in place to take the weight of the doors? there must be some kind of adhesive that would do the job?

There are other makes of copper pushfit. I used copper from Hep2o bend to JG brass elbow. All push fit.

my chippie mentioned something about fitting battens that the sink lip sits on. not sure if that's possible or any good for you?

I hope so!

I listened master. 40mm coming through the block and beam straight in to a 50mm bend and then 50mm all the way to the soil pipe.

this is what we got for the kids bathrooms. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/168379.htm wanted recessed so as to give more a sense of space as they're not huge en-suites. not cheap though. here's a photo of the bathroom with the hole ready for the cabinet to be fitted once the room was tiled and painted.