Thorfun

@Rob99 If I may ask another question about the Wago terminal blocks (or anyone else if you use them of course!). How many jumper/cross connectors can you put in a terminal block? wondering if you can span more than 10 terminal blocks by connecting 1 - 10 and then connecting 10 - X etc? The way lights/circuit/terminal block planning is coming on I'm getting about 5 or 6 terminal blocks per room but the total power of those lights will be no more than 200W per room as they're all LEDs and so that's 1A max! now I look at it it's crazy to have individual RCBOs for lighting per room and so I'm thinking about doubling/tripling up rooms on to a single RCBO but need to cross connect a large number of terminal blocks.

thanks @Rob99. I think that's great advice. I was trying to segregate 24V and 230V by DIN rail, hadn't considered separating them LHS/RHS. makes complete sense with the wiring. I've taken your suggestion and also moved the 230V terminal blocks starting from the RHS so there's a bigger gap between the DI/Tree 8-way terminal blocks and 230V terminal blocks. seemed a sensible continuation to the LHS/RHS theme. 😉 I like this idea a lot. tbh I see no reason for audio terminal blocks as that's not something that I'm ever likely to change. it's not like a stereo extension will suddenly need to change to another pair of speakers as they all do the same job! whereas for lighting it is very reasonable to potentially change a non-dimming light circuit to a dimming circuit. I also like the idea of the 24V dimmer being closer to the terminal blocks. not sure if the shorter distance will have a massive impact on voltage drop but it can't hurt, right? anyway, here's the new layout? the only issue is I have nearly a full DIN rail not being used. seems a little wasteful. 🤣

I am not terminating all twisted pairs from the Cat6A cables around the house, just the ones that I will be using. the plan is to bring the Cat6A cables. the plan is to bring them in at the top left of the cabinet and terminate them there in the 8-way blocks. in fact it will, I hope, be very similar to @joth's photo from where this screen shot has been taken I'm pretty certain that I'll regret some of my decisions with layout and wiring etc as I've not done this before. but I will live and learn and if I need to redo it at some point in the future then so be it!

with awesome help from @Rob99, @joth, @Dan F, @jack, @Kelvin and many many others I have finally come up with a design for my Loxone cabinet ready for it to be ripped apart by those same amazing folk! 🤣 it's quite small as I had to zoom out in the spreadsheet to fit it all in but hopefully you can zoom in and see what everything is. very welcome to hear comments.

do I need any special tools to fit the cables in to the Wago terminal blocks or the Weidmuller 8-way blocks?

No bother for me. Can just ignore the notification! 😂

True but they’re so cheap I’ve over-specked just in case. 😉 They are pretty local. Will pop in to see them as they do see very keenly priced.

can the cross-connectors be cut or do you have to buy the exact size you want? here's my spreadsheet showing the different prices and availability the Loxone prices are so high because of the minimum quantities you have to buy in. it's interesting that uk.farnell.com and cpc.farnell.com have wildly different prices with CPC being a lot cheaper. but CPC don't stock the 2002-4157.

here's the link to my thread has some great information from @A_L in there that aided me in my calculations.

btw, quoting people the way you do doesn't notify them that they've been quoted! 😉 that's why I've only just seen this post.

I also was banging my head against a wall trying to compare and look at other brands and find where to buy from so I created a spreadsheet. 🙂 Wago are cheaper but there seems not much difference between the two to get individually. In the end (and I've literally just finished my research) I've decided to go with Wago which will please @Rob99. I wonder if the knowledgable folk on this forum can double check that these Wago parts are compatible please? Loxone Cabinet Din rail components PPV 8 GR 35X7.5 DGR https://catalog.weidmueller.com/catalog/Start.do?ObjectID=1173870000 PRV 8 BL 35X7.5 RT/WS https://catalog.weidmueller.com/catalog/Start.do;jsessionid=34F4787B2C14E096B97A60ACDA4A89A3?ObjectID=1267840000&page=Product PAP PRV/PPV8 SW https://catalog.weidmueller.com/procat/Product.jsp;jsessionid=A6DB5AA66D28A4F406F80D634E4BF620?productId=(%5b1173720000%5d)&page=Product Multilevel installation terminal block N/L/PE 2.5mm2 https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/multilevel-installation-terminal-block/p/2003-7646 Multilevel installation terminal block N/L/PE End and intermediate plate https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/end-and-intermediate-plate/p/2003-7692 Double-deck terminal block https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/double-deck-terminal-block/p/2002-2201 Double-deck terminal block end and intermediate plate https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/end-and-intermediate-plate/p/2002-2292 Triple-deck terminal block https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/triple-deck-terminal-block/p/2002-3201 Triple-deck terminal block end and intermediate plate https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/end-and-intermediate-plate/p/2002-3292 Quadruple-deck terminal block L1 - L2 - L3 - PE for motor https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/quadruple-deck-rail-mounted-terminal-block/p/2002-4157 Cross-connectors https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/jumper/p/2002-410 In order to get the best prices and all components I will need to buy from 3 different places which is a bit frustrating but most seem to offer free delivery over a certain amount so it doesn't really affect me too much. it's just a faff to keep track of what is coming from where!

oh ffs! I've also seen these https://www.wago.com/gb/rail-mount-terminal-blocks/multilevel-installation-terminal-block/p/2003-6646. looks like the difference is shape/size and max current rating. just when I think I've made a decision something else comes along to scupper it or put doubt in my mind. 🤦‍♂️ I guess that's the problem when you're shopping around to find the cheapest price and not every site has everything you need

@Rob99 are these (https://www.tme.eu/Document/b14caeecc65d781d96268d2fe93decd5/2003-7646.pdf) the Wago equivalent of the Weidmuller ones on the Loxone website? https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/2003-7646/rail-mounted-connectors/wago/

definitely given me food for thought as to what i actually want the iPad to do as it seems it can do a whole lot more than just Loxone.

very nicely done! I bet that touch screen is a lot cheaper than an iPad too! 🤣

greetings. I'm struggling to find the suggested back box for a Loxone iPad wall mount. anyone used one/found one? my alternative is to not bother with a back box and just use plasterboard plugs and screw the mount directly to the plasterboard. what did others do?

We were originally having some light wells for our basement but eventually decided it added too much cost and complexity. Although we do have a basement courtyard for a secondary escape stairs so that is, in theory, just a big light well!

isn't that what trunking is for? 😉

Our plasterer did the boarding and skim. But he did say they don’t often board as the builder does it and they just turn up and plaster.

I’d like a way to isolate a rooms lighting so if changing a fitting I don’t have to turn the entire house/floor off.

Thanks. Out of interest, in the 8yrs how many times have you needed to isolate the Loxone cabinet from the CU? Seems that once it’s set up it’s not something that would happen often.

I don’t get this. Just open the (expletive deleted) window if you want it open! 🤷‍♂️ as @ProDave said having MVHR doesn’t mean you can’t open a window.

the battery system is already installed. not sure where it sits in relation to the surge protection though tbh! my sparky just wired it up for me and it seems to work! 🤣 but the batteries are on the house side of the CU. if you're interested I can try and map it out but it wouldn't be until the weekend as the day job keeps getting in the way of things. this is the single most compelling argument to do it that way! what size RCBO do you have feeding the Loxone cabinet? I presume it needs to be quite beefy? maybe 2 x smaller ones might be a good way to go so that only half the cabinet will fail if one of the CU RCBO trips? @Rob99? how do you do your customer's setups? I'm pretty sure I remember from @joth's photos that he also has RCBOs in the Loxone cabinet. @jack? how's yours done? anyone else care to comment? I only tagged the above as they're in the top posters in this topic 😉

my plasterer was labour only. I bought materials as and when required. I bought a load at the beginning and when that started to get low he told me how much more to buy and my local BM could deliver within a couple of days at the most so it worked well and we didn't have to have all the materials on site in one go.

I was thinking of doing it your way but my CU is right next to the Loxone cabinet and it is a big CU with lots of ways (18 + 20 https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4780675-18-20-dual-row-100a-isolator-incomer-metal-clad-consumer-unit-with-type-2-spd) and so I figure I have the space in the CU and my sparky was ok with that too. I will, of course, double check with him again about the best way to do it all. for my 24V stuff I have the Loxone PSUB which is rather large and takes up a large portion of the bottom row in the cabinet so there's not a huge amount of room left for RCBOs. Once I've drawn up my cabinet layout I'll post it up for comment/criticism.