Thorfun

thanks. seems to be exactly what we need but not sure how we can clamp, it's a double bed so the clamp would need to be rather large!

That’s what I thought. Looking for recommendations!

and I thought my idea to build a 4' high wall with local sandstone that we dug up for our basement was a big task! 😱

yeah. I know that's the 'best' way to do it but that means re-upholstering part of the bed where the faux-leather is to the left of the damaged section. I was hoping that would be the last resort! the wife is a dab hand at needlework and stuff but if there was an 'easier' solution I'd rather that! but will definitely consider the new piece of wood route if nothing else comes to mind.

we picked up a bed off the local Facebook group for free for one of our teenagers but it's broken where the side bits attach to the headboard. the wood that the bolt plate screws in to is split. here's some photos. what's the best/easiest way to fix this? I was wondering if there was some kind of resin product that I could inject in to the gap which would allow holes to be drilled for the bolts and could be screwed in to. anyone know of such a product or have any other amazing ideas on how best to fix this please?

with procrastination like that you and @Pocster will get on well!

A structural engineer can work that out for you

I thought Orcan F can be used as an airtight bead. 🤷‍♂️ can't you just tape down to the sub-base though with Tescon Vana using a concrete primer to aid adhesion? you could do both I guess!

With a 2m slope have you thought about an upside down house? First floor living space that extends further out back on top of the 2m slope with bedroom the ground floor?

= no wife

It’d look level after a few bottles of🍷

it's just frustrating though, right? e.g. I fitted our Quooker tap at the weekend. got the boiling water working but there was an issue with the Cube so the chilled and fizzy water wasn't working. now a job that I wanted to tick off as finished is awaiting replacement parts to be able to be finished. it's just frustrating that it's incomplete. that's all. I know it'll be done eventually but I can't cross it off the list yet!

cheers. hadn't thought about needing to access them in the future! figured they'd just be left there for ever untouched. but i guess it's a possibility that they might be needed so great advice.

qq. when wiring up the Loxone switches do you gel crimp the unused cables and leave them in the back box or do you leave them in the wall behind/above/below the back box and just run the 2 x pairs in to the back box? what is your preference? just wondering if there's room for all those extra gel crimps in the back box.

June 2022

if you don't ask you don't get! but they'll probably say no. they can always get one shipped from Europe i guess. use the Ubiquiti forums, Google and/or YouTube and there'll be a solution out there for you.

i understand the frustration but if their technical support is saying it needs replacing then i would suggest replacing it now while it's still in warranty rather than having more issues further down the line! you should be able to backup your config and save it somewhere and then restore the new one from that backup to get your changes in place. i would also be asking them to send the new one first to get it installed and then send the old one back so you're not without internet access for too long.

Similar price to me iirc. Got mine direct from Graf UK. Just checked was £2300+vat for a 9 PE

don't remember! can't remember why I chose the Graf over other potential shallow dig type tanks sorry. ultimately they all do the same thing and folk on here have had good experiences with lots of different makes so go with the majority of good votes or your gut!

we went for a Graf one2clean. i liked the shape so was a shallower dig and easier to ensure it was level. also had good reviews and i liked the way the pump was remotely located from the tank as other people mentioned the ones with the pump in the top of the tank were a bit noisy. there are lots out there @Amateur bob, not just Vortex and Klargester. do LOTS of research (i think i read almost every post in the sub-forum) and decide what works best for you for price, install, running, emptying etc.

i would suggest following the MI for whichever STP you go for.

our existing bungalow has a biodisk. started smelling a bit recently. check in it and the disks had stopped moving. called out the local company and the motor was fried due to a seized gear box. £450 +VAT later we have a working Klargester again. can't wait until we demolish this place and move to our nice new Graf system where all i'll have to change is a pump every now and again.

seems you've double posted! here's my answer to your other post on this subject

how can planning specify a Klargester? are they getting kick-backs from Kingspan to promote their products? surely you would just need a sewage treatment plant that meets certain specifications of discharge which will open up the possibilities of different STPs for you.

i would suggest looking at what the manufacturer recommends for the install as a start and then see where that takes you.