Thorfun

thanks guys and it kind of makes sense. will update the cabinet wiring accordingly. 🙂

thanks @joth for setting me straight. it's not surprising I get confused with all this stuff when the diagram for the SSRs show a Neutral coming out of the C~ terminal! I don't understand why the diagram would show that. it's more confusing that it says 'Total Power <10A' on the C~ connector with a fuse and joining the 'N' labelled wire. so confused.

I’ve already configured all my relay outputs and assigned them to rooms. next step will be to manually add the tree devices and create some basic lighting controllers so that when I plug the cables things will, hopefully, all work!

Loxone Config up and running, mini server and extensions powered by the PSUB and a couple tree devices visible as well. I would say things are progressing nicely now! it's very exciting. next step is to connect up all the Cat6A and T&E cables to the relevant terminal blocks and then it's just programming it all. 😄

thanks and noted. was hoping to just DHCP it for now and can set a static IP later on.

I only recently stopped paying for Parallels and am loathe to pay again. I'll see if I can get VirtualBox to work with it otherwise I'll try running a VM on my QNAP NAS and can connect to that from any laptop remotely. such a ball-ache.

oh ffs! Why is Loxone Config Windows only? 😠 I'll do a Google to see if I can use it with Wine or some other emulation software on my Mac.

cabinet is on the wall and it's not coming down again (hopefully)! will look to get the mini server powered on tomorrow and start taking a look at Config to see if I can see any extensions, sensors and switches.

no problem at all! I'm cracking on with wiring up the switches and sensors anyway. the blinds are at the bottom of the list of essentials tbh so I'll get to them at some point. I'm actually about to pop out and wire up the extensions, get the cabinet on the wall and put some temporary power to it all so I can boot up the mini server and see if I can get anything working. exciting times. I was supposed to be doing plumbing this weekend but the basins and units don't fit and so that's on hold until that gets sorted so I have time spare to focus on the Loxone system.

you could narrow down your search to only passivhaus certified windows. at least then you know that the airtightness has been tested and is up to spec. @craig is our window expert. he might be able to shed some light on the subject. also worth speaking to him as he supplies very good quality doors that a few on here have purchased.

afternoon all. I am nearing the end of my internal wiring for the cabinet but I need some help and error checking again please. (I'm sure you're not surprised). wiring up the blinds to be controlled by the Whitewing DMX 24V controller which trigger SSR relays. this is the wiring diagram for the SSRs all seems to make sense and here is my wiring of them. the SSR on the left is switching L1 for each blind and the SSR on the right is switching L2 for each blind where L1 and L2 are the 'up' and 'down' lives of the blind motors. all blinds will be run off the same RCBO. what I would like checking is: 1. the red wire from the WW DMX to the SSR. is what I've done correct? taken a +ve from a WW block to the common +ve of one SSR and then looped through to the other one. 2. the blue wire from the topside of the SSRs (labelled C~) loops from one SSR to the other and then heads off to the terminal blocks where it is commoned across all the TBs with a jumper. is that correct? Finally, I am confused as to the live outputs at the top of the SSRs. the diagram shows them joining a 240V feed. how, in practice, would I achieve what is in the diagram? the lives from the SSRs end up in the terminal blocks (photo above) with L1 being on the second level of the TB and L2 being the bottom level of the TB. do I add an extra terminal block to bring in the perm live feed from an RCBO and then jumper that across the lives on both L1 and L2? do I bring the live in to the SSR with a double ferrule at the 1st screw terminal and then do something with it there, i.e. double ferrule it along each screw terminal?

qq. in the screenshot below from @joth's install I see it looks like he's using 1.5mm tri-rated cable for the DMX control wires. is there any reason to use this thickness of cable or will Cat6A cable suffice? if it's just a control signal then surely it doesn't need to be so beefy?

me too! Loctite 577 makes it idiot proof. I am living proof.

So it’s a personal preference thing then? No regulations involved?

maybe a little high for NI but is about right for SE England. approx costs for the boss sparky for me is £300 and his underling is £250. the material uplift is normal I think. I am a nice guy and offered to uplift their daily rate by 10% to compensate for the loss with me buying materials which he accepted. tbh, I'm pretty sure it was better for me as I managed to source materials at a cheaper price than he would've (I think) as he has an account with CEF and we all know how expensive they are! by shopping around on the internet I'm sure I was quids in. at least that's how my man-maths justifies it.

evening all. can't remember if I've asked this before but anyone know what size bootlace ferrules I need to get for Cat6A cable please? according to an awg conversion chart I found on Google 23awg is 0.57mm. so do I go for 0.5mm, 0.75mm or 1.0mm ferrules? actually, do I even need ferrules as it's solid core, right?

Someone screwed the pooch on this one. Company have gone back to the glass manufacturer and told them to redo the glass to the correct specifications. I think someone is in trouble as that’s not going to be cheap. i’m so glad I noticed as that could’ve been a massive safety issue. lesson learnt to never trust the manufacturer sticker!!

Yep. I measured a couple of them. One 12.02mm and another 12.09mm. The wife will be speaking to the company today.

Agree, but the OP is having a basement and I thought I’d make him aware to set expectations before he went to MBC.

when I was looking at TF companies MBC wouldn't offer the warm slab as we were having a basement. they would've fitted their TF to the basement but weren't interested in the slab.

haven't got enough to do all the pairs so would have to use gel crimps for some of them. I have 64 wagos and 16 sensors. so enough for the orange/orange white and green/green white.

it's supposed to be 6/4/6 afaik.

Ps. We paid for 13.5mm and I also don’t know if 12mm is up to building regs. Will be questioning them tomorrow.

Yeah the landing. We decided to cut out the floating flooring in the end and fixed straight down to the structure. It is solid!! will speak to the manufacturer tomorrow but as it’s Sunday I figured I’d ask on here in case any of the awesome members knew.

I got a load of these 3-way Wago connectors with my Loxone order. I think they came with the presence sensors. did/ does anyone use them or should I just stick with gel crimps?