Jump to content

Thorfun

Members
  • Posts

    4889
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    36

Everything posted by Thorfun

  1. I've ordered 3 of the Unitrap ones from Amazon. I just can't afford the Wavin ones at the moment. hope that doesn't come back to bite me later though! although, even if they only last 2 years at least I might have some money again by that time to be able to fix them. 🤣
  2. cor. the Wavin one is twice the price of the Unitrap and McApline ones!
  3. greetings. anyone used the Unitrap waterless trap? I see McApline also do a waterless trap. I'm liking the flexibility of the Unitrap but couldn't find it mentioned on here so was wondering if anyone had used it or if I should just stick to McApline.
  4. in a power cut just head to the pub, then you won't care if the blinds are up or down. 🤣
  5. motorised! why would you want to do stuff manually?
  6. oh f**k. 😭
  7. BC wants FD30 doors, intumescent strips and door closers. i have external door frames and they have a groove but that's for the weather strip as far as i know.
  8. this is what i was thinking too
  9. i have 2 doors from the garage leading to the house which are FD30 rated and have external door frames. i need to buy some intumescent strips for the chippie to router in. looking at Screwfix i see different options. Fire or fire and smoke. 10mm or 15mm. white or brown. how do i know what i need? obviously white or brown is personal preference but how do i know if i need 10mm or 15mm? and what do i need for BR compliance with regards to fire only or fire and smoke?
  10. so there is benefit in the FC1? or is that just marketing BS?
  11. nice one. thanks. here ends my research in to caulk! 🤣
  12. it says it's paintable whereas i didn't think standard caulk was paintable? i wonder how much that is worth. there are other filling caulks around that are more expensive that FC1 too.
  13. Thank you. I thought that’d be the case but I like to sanity check my ideas sometimes! great to know. Thought I was going to have to move loads of cable out the way to snip them off.
  14. Anyone used FC1? https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/c-tec-fc1-ultimate-all-in-one-filler-caulk-white-310ml https://www.madeinbritain.org/news/ct1-introduces-fc1-the-ultimate-filler-caulk-combination-for-professional-applications-dec-2023
  15. think I know the answer to this one but are there any issues with me cutting off a 'finger' of the cable tray to give more room? one of these things circled in red is what I'm talking about?
  16. If you’ve the time then go for it. We were quoted £1200 for ours and that was 13 supply and 15 extracts. The price was so good I took it and spent the time I would’ve spent on it doing something else!
  17. i like this idea. will run it by SWMBO as she'll be the one doing the oiling!
  18. This was my concern exactly. The time, space and potential drip issue. But if you and @Roundtuit managed it well after hanging then that is definitely something to consider.
  19. Great to know it can be done after hanging. Did you have any issues? Do you think it would’ve been easier before hanging? Would you do it the same if doing it again?
  20. we have oak internal doors (not solid oak coz that'd be crazy money!) and the lovely other half is planning on oiling them with Danish Oil. is it best to do this before they get hung? or can it be done after hanging sufficiently well enough?
  21. we bought from Ultra Leds https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-standard-recessed-plaster-in-led-aluminium-channel-3-metre-length.html
  22. No issue for @Pocster as he won’t even be finished before the 50yr warranty expires.
  23. nice. I've decided to do ferrules at both ends. been going great guns this evening and got quite a bit done. will keep going whenever I have free evenings!
  24. same as @Pocster but didn't foam. our plant room is in the basement so basically everything pretty much goes up!
  25. nice. I do have very extensive schedule documentation so I'm hoping it goes quickly. I can definitely see the benefit of having a second pair of hands to assist. while you're on I have another question for you. in the photo of your cabinet I notice that you use the bootlace ferrules at the Loxone extension end as well as the terminal block end for the tri-rated cable. is there a reason why you don't just put the cable in and screw it down? I understand the need for the ferrules at the terminal block end as it's push-fit so needs to be solid but for screw terminals what's the reasoning behind it?
×
×
  • Create New...