Thorfun

i've been told by quite a few friends to get FD30 doors anyway as they're much more solid. yes, they're double the price but you can get a deal if you shop around and i dislike the flimsy feeling non-FD30 doors. ymmv.

Check on the Ubiquiti forums or log a ticket with their support. Maybe someone else has seen the issue or maybe it’s a bug they’re unaware of.

although that says system data and configurations, not firmware. so I'm not sure that the restore from backup will revert the firmware update. seems to be lots of posts on UDMPro rollbacks but not UDR. https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=ubiquiti+dream+router+firmware+rollback&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#ip=1

log in to your Ubiquiti account. i navigate to 192.168.1.1 (the IP of my DMPro) from my internal network (whether wifi or cable shouldn't make a difference as you're on your internal LAN) and log in to the web page that shows.

I don’t really use the app much. Much more functionality connecting with a web browser

At least the grout is a decent colour.

How much did the CT1 leave the pan off the wall? 1mm? 2mm? Or more?

Yeah, sounds like that’s right out of @Nickfromwales’s playbook! was just curious if anyone had gone the foam sheet route and had any feedback.

I turned off auto updates on my Ubiquiti kit early on after issues with an automatic update. Now I update manually after ensuring no major issues are found. Sounds like you’ve just exp the same. can you rollback the update?

Ahh….right. I was asking about those foam sheets that sit between the pan and the tiles. I presume you just used CT1 on the back of the pan to cushion it against the tiles? I have read your thread but it was a long time ago! I’m sure most on here just use CT1 as I believe that’s what @Nickfromwales suggests but the MI for our pan shows a cushioning sheet between the pan and the wall so I thought I’d ask the question.

I thought the sound pads were to reduce noise of porcelain against tile?

Not even a “don’t waste your money”?

Welcome!!

we have the Hallmark Trojans as well. supplied by a local dealer https://www.powellblinds.com. we planned for them from the off and so they are hidden behind the cladding above the windows. when they're up you can't tell that we have them.

so no one has any thoughts/opinions on those sound insulation pads? 🤔

this isn't true. Jeremy's spreadsheet most definitely allows you put a target ACH in. i used it to figure out my preferred target ACH.

finally, a useful thread from @Pocster with information i can use. 😜

Actually we put our conduit within the insulation under the screed so didn’t have to worry about depth of screed. sorry, forgot about that!

Welcome and congratulations. Exciting times.

We ran in conduit in the screed. Sparky was fine with it. I’d say check with yours in case cable size needs to be increased.

started to finally put all the terminal blocks in. had to move the blind terminal blocks to the 2nd din rail in the end as there just wasn't the room for them on the first rail to also allow for the basement terminal blocks. I'm sure it'll be fine as they're flex rather than rigid cable. and I can run most of the Loxone relay cable up and under the raised din rail that is between the SSRs and blind TBs to save room up the right hand side trunking. I've numbered the 230V terminal blocks from right to left which looks a bit weird but it leaves room for expansion for them or the 8-ways if required and can then keep the numbers contiguous. bit frustrated that I now have to buy Weidmuller numbers for those 14 x 8-way blocks. I might just use my label printer though!

ps. I do have more questions but I'll go easy on you all for now. 😉

oh, and one more question. my rimless toilet came with a flow attenuation thingy to put inline with the flow pipe. should I fit regardless or dry fit the toilet and flush it a few times to see if it's needed before taking off the pan and fitting the attenuator and then fitting the pan properly and siliconing it all in. I don't want to fit the pan and seal it and then have to cut out the silicone to fit the attenuator! but also don't want to fit the attenuator only to find that it's attenuated the flow too much or wasn't required.

qq and looking for a poll really. when fitting a toilet should I go for CT1 behind the pan or those sound insulation pads? and if sound insulation pads generic like this or named brand for the toilet or frame?

way too late for me I'm afraid! already installed and bedded on a thick bead of CT1 along the grout line. I'm sure it'll be fine🤞