Thorfun

Does this affect zero rating VAT at all? If using part of an existing structure?

🤦‍♂️ need to learn to read.

it's what the OP wanted! 🤷‍♂️shrug

We went this approach. ASHP for ground floor UFH and A2A for first floor and cooling throughout. Despite having external shading I was worried about overheating and so fitted AC which can be used for supplemental heating if required. Could give @CalvinHobbes the “instant heat” you’re after while also being useful in the years to come.

Ok. So after much deliberation I think I’ve got it. I take a 24V feed up to the retractive switch common connector and then from the L1 connector a wire to the digital input. I’ll try it tomorrow and see what happens!

Found this https://www.loxone.com/enen/kb/setting-up-dmx-devices/ so will have a go tomorrow. 🤞

hey @Dan F. qq on the retractive switches please. how the **** do I wire these things up!? 🤣 I bought these (https://www.retrotouch.co.uk/crystal-pulse-retractive-switches/crystal-pg-retractivepulse-light-switch-1-gang-white.html) and the connectors at the back look like they're for mains voltage but they say that they can be used with Loxone. I'm guessing the wire that goes to my digital input on the Miniserver (I'm using the brown twisted pair cable for these retractive switches) needs to go in to one of these connections but I'm not smart enough to work out which. you also mentioned the 24V for these. where does that connect to the switch?

today I connected up my Whitewing DMX RGB dimmer to the DMX extension but in Loxone config when I do a DMX device search it doesn't find anything. should I be seeing something in config?

lol. I didn't even know that was a thing! I've already manually created the rooms and chucked a lighting controller in each one and have started adding the tree devices as I plug each cat6 in to the cabinet. Also already assigned each relay output to a lighting circuit as per my spreadsheet. It seems that doing things the hard way is what I do! 🤣

greetings. I'm having a play with Loxone Config and I was wondering how you all laid your blocks out within it. do you create a page per room and have all lighting/heating/blinds etc for the one room on that page? or do you have all, say, GF lighting on one page, FF lighting on another page, GF heating on it's own page etc? there are, obviously, many ways to skin a cat but if you've found an efficient way of arranging your content then I'd be interested to know so I'm not reinventing the wheel or having to redo it later when I realise the way I've done it sucks!

we used Stairbox for that cheap temp staircases. sadly funds are so scarce now we're near the end that i think the temp staircase will be painted and kept for a while until we can afford the final one.

i did indeed. on walls and roofs. tips? it's a pain to do especially on attic trusses (i can only imagine how much worse it would be on standard roof trusses!). hopefully the OP won't have this issue with room in roof though as the roof probably isn't built using attic trusses. we fully filled the walls/trusses with glass wool (horrible stuff) and then screwed PIR (80mm on walls and 100mm on roofs) in to the TF and roof. we then put AVCL membrane over the PIR. we used double sided tape to hold it in place until the service cavity battens were fitted and they held the membrane nicely. i wish we'd done blown in cellulose. glass wool was horrible. it's great that the installer will core through the PIR to fill the roof. good luck. sounds like a great roof buildup.

This is who we used https://www.eslightingdesign.co.uk

for a property that size you might find that a good lighting designer is not as expensive as you think.

NSFW more like! 😂

maybe the German version but use your browser's translate function might make it work better? i haven't used them for a while but i can't see how they'd suddenly turn in to a dodgy company when so many on here have favourable experiences with them. 🤷‍♂️

if you put stuff in your basket and go to checkout does it not list the delivery charge there? my stuff came DPD iirc.

thanks guys and it kind of makes sense. will update the cabinet wiring accordingly. 🙂

thanks @joth for setting me straight. it's not surprising I get confused with all this stuff when the diagram for the SSRs show a Neutral coming out of the C~ terminal! I don't understand why the diagram would show that. it's more confusing that it says 'Total Power <10A' on the C~ connector with a fuse and joining the 'N' labelled wire. so confused.

I’ve already configured all my relay outputs and assigned them to rooms. next step will be to manually add the tree devices and create some basic lighting controllers so that when I plug the cables things will, hopefully, all work!

Loxone Config up and running, mini server and extensions powered by the PSUB and a couple tree devices visible as well. I would say things are progressing nicely now! it's very exciting. next step is to connect up all the Cat6A and T&E cables to the relevant terminal blocks and then it's just programming it all. 😄

thanks and noted. was hoping to just DHCP it for now and can set a static IP later on.

I only recently stopped paying for Parallels and am loathe to pay again. I'll see if I can get VirtualBox to work with it otherwise I'll try running a VM on my QNAP NAS and can connect to that from any laptop remotely. such a ball-ache.

oh ffs! Why is Loxone Config Windows only? 😠 I'll do a Google to see if I can use it with Wine or some other emulation software on my Mac.

cabinet is on the wall and it's not coming down again (hopefully)! will look to get the mini server powered on tomorrow and start taking a look at Config to see if I can see any extensions, sensors and switches.