Thorfun

in our research we found that the prices the TF manufacturers add on for factory fitted insulation was stupidly expensive and so we decided to go with an open panel timber frame and will fit the insulation ourselves. this way we save a lot of money and also can then choose the insulation we want. might not work for everyone though.

our solar PV company sent us photos of lead flashing details for the GSE trays. the roofer said no problem and will be using Code 4 300mm lead flashing so we're going that route.

got this from Travis Perkins today: Hi We're celebrating our 20th partnership anniversary with the Northampton Saints rugby team! It's one of the longest-running sports partnership in the UK, just saying ? To celebrate, we're giving you 20% OFF building materials and more online and on the TP App this weekend. Simply use promo code TPSAINTS20 at checkout. Sorted. Be quick, this weekend only!

so after a weeks delay due to material shortages the timber floor deck has finally arrived today and it is Egger Protect. so I now have no concerns about the impending weather. they're also using the Soudal PU glue that expands to fill the joints so should be nicely weather proof until I can get the roof on.

have you tried local builders merchants? I have 2 local builders merchants and both came back with cheaper prices for Recticel and EcoTherm PIR than I could find online. plus I have an account with them so don't have to pay upfront and I'm supporting local business. ?

everyone seems to have their own experience and opinion. our LABC officer was more expensive than the Protek private one and they're doing both BR and warranty. for us it was a no-brainer. like I said, it will depend on your own circumstances and, as with everything it seems, one size does not fit all.

I think it depends on other factors rather as well. for us it was cheaper to use the same private building control company for both BR and our warranty rather than using LABC for BR and a private for the warranty.

yep, fair point. all I was saying that I wouldn't discount the company on that alone and would give them a little slack and go and see a proper installation of the slider before making a final choice. as @Gus Potter said, they are a big ticket item and you want to make sure you've made the right choice as much as possible!

Yes and it is something we have discussed with the AC company. If we go that route I can take photos of what is required but I can’t help at the moment with what needs to be done to achieve it.

Raynaers are all aluminium. maybe it's the timber that makes the Internorm slider heavier? Also, remember that at a show like Grand Designs/Build It Live/HBR etc the stands might not be perfectly level and so could affect the movement of the sliders and make it seem heavier. we visited an Internorm showroom and I don't recall thinking it was too heavy.

We’re going for Norrsken windows and doors. Been an absolute pleasure to deal with so far and the price was a lot lower than Internorm and the quality looks good. They will also fit them so it’s all kept under one roof. Ours are due to be fitted in December so once they’re in I’ll have a better idea on the whole experience.

The whole basement (slab and walls) is wrapped in FIS Maxiprufe Plus (http://www.fisproducts.co.uk/product/maxiprufe-plus-2/) and also FIS waterproof concrete additive.

Exactly what happened to me

I'm an Erbauer fan! https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eid18-li-ecd18-li-2-18v-2-0ah-li-ion-ext-brushless-cordless-twin-pack/542fv and a kit with 2 x 4Ah batteries https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eid18-li-ecd18-li-2-18v-4-0ah-li-ion-ext-brushless-cordless-combi-drill-impact-driver-twin-pack/355jr both brushless as well.

I know this is a Makita love-in session but I'd just like to share another opinion. I also love my impact driver and I can't believe I ever did DIY without one! But I am fully part of the Erbauer ecosystem now and I bought https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eid18-li-ecd18-li-2-18v-2-0ah-li-ion-ext-brushless-cordless-twin-pack/542fv this set. gave me an extra 2 batteries to go with my other ones and the tools are great for someone like me who isn't a professional and won't use it every day. just a potential less expensive option. ?

good to know. I'll find out tomorrow what our floor decking is and can report back!

ok. I guess I need to wait and see what turns up on the lorry tomorrow. it's too late for me to pay extra to get the Eggar Protect so I'll see what arrives and then re-asses.

I'm in the hands of the timber frame company for this Dave. afaik, it has to go in now to be a safe working platform for them to fit the first floor walls and then the roof. I wasn't given an option to just loose fit OSB until watertight but as I don't want to be fitting the floor decking myself I have to follow the build schedule as laid down by the TF company. I don't currently know what the floor decking is but it is arriving tomorrow so I can take a look and see what it is and see if it has a coating on it already. I guess that once I know the exact floor decking I can make a more informed decision but let's do a 'what if'. if the decking has to be fitted now and if it's not got it's own coating to withstand a certain exposure to weather would 2mm Correx sheets do the job for 5 or 6 weeks until the roofing slates are done?

Hi all, our TF house floor joists and floor decking is going in next week and once finished it'll be another 5 or 6 weeks before the roof is finished and as we move through October and in to November I'm wondering if the statement on the floor joist drawings of "Protect installed flooring from mechanical and water damage" is just them covering their backsides or if it is really prudent to do so? for about £200 I can get enough Correx to cover the floor decking from water damage should the heavens open (and they probably will) but is that a waste of money and time to fit it? how long have others left their floor decking open to the elements without seeing warping or excessive damage from water ingress?

In my mind there will be battens for a service void and the plasterboard will fix to that. So the real question is how to fin the battens through the PIR and in to the rafters? and to answer that please see the previous answer ?‍♂️

I’ve not thought that far ahead!!

interesting that the air tight membrane is going behind the 60mm PIR. I was planning on filling the rafters with mineral wool, then putting 80mm PIR and THEN adding the VCL. that way any off-gassing from the PIR is all behind the air tight membrane and not off-gassing in to the house. crazy paranoia or sensible?

Enhabit could do PHPP for me but said it has limitations in that it's whole house rather than room by room. Also, I'd already paid the other company for the thermal modelling and SAP report so the cooling demand wasn't as much as getting Enhabit to do a whole new thermal/cooling/phpp modelling. in for a penny, in for a pound as they say! I'll see what they say in response to my snotty email.

we went to the HBR show at the London Excel last weekend and we were asked to show our Covid passes before entering the center. we even saw people kicking up a fuss for not having one on them. gave us a bit of peace of mind, but we kept our masks on throughout anyway.

they didn't give any details at all! (this wasn't Enhabit btw). the report was a couple of tables with no explanation of how the model was achieved etc and I have sent them an email asking for details and telling them how unhappy I am with their 'report'. one table seems to allude to them using occupancy and equipment to determine the cooling demand. no mention of blinds, MVHR or anything else. really think I wasted my money on this one but will see what they respond with when they get back to work tomorrow.