Onoff

Use the third core of 6243Y cable as stated above. Do NOT use the earth wire of twin and earth cable as this could cause problems of mistaken identity at a later date.

.....or a 1/4" bolt if welding!

When I think my Dad "taught" me to change a plug with a dinner knife and me teeth! PM me your address and these are in the post to you in the morning, enough for putting one WAGO light box in line: You can have a play with the push fit and cage clamp types, I'll even throw in some earth sleeving!

I'd fit one box only and maybe a new length from the box to the light fitting. As for strippers you don't need anything fancy. I still have a cheapo pair like this in the bag I still use occasionally: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Electrical-Wire-Strippers/p/500514

I don't suppose, by any slim chance you could replace that length of cable? Only thinking you say it's not clipped. No doubt it'll be plastered in down the wall! Guessing maybe not enough slack to go the WAGO box route either?

Decided, (at last), that using flexible pipe is the only practical way to make this bath removable. So rough route from the taps to the copper coming down the wall shown below. I just so happen to have a few metres of each of which I'd forgotten all about: - grey Hep2O 15x1.7mm PB pipe (rated 12 Bar at 20degC, 7 Bar at 82degC) then some : - white JG Speedfit 15mm B-Pex (rated; 12 Bar at 20degC, 4 Bar at 82degC, 3 Bar at 92degC) Both to BS 7291. Tbh the grey Hep2O PB "feels" better whilst seeming more flexible and less rigid that the white JG one. Any pointers which is best? And I was thinking to use these to connect the flexible pipe to the taps / deck valves or maybe the Hep2O "Hand Titan" ones? http://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/7367f Cheers

Sorry, my mistake, can't see a thing using this new phone. Read your post as "would I crimp to repair and leave like it". As to your issue I would say it needs a repair from the picture. AND keep away from hot pipes too. Is that twin & earth or flex btw?

If I could guarantee against vermin then yes I personally would. I'd rather it clipped direct too. I'd also plaster it straight into a wall chase if the cable was run in the recognised zone. And again no probs in conduit/trunking. Crimping with an "appropriate compression" tool along with soldering, brazing and welding are recognised as being acceptable by the regs as not requiring future access. You might come across a term "mf" or maintenance free which any screw terminal isn't. Tbh this type of join is pretty common. Needs to be done well and pass it's dead tests etc. Try getting a WAGO box in a narrow wall chase easily!

Just use some decent in line, heat shrink, self adhesive crimps with heat shrink over that. Here's a handy step by step I did: Note the use of a red crimp on the CPC because of the smaller csa. .....or use WAGOs. I can give you the crimp stuff or WAGOs.

I've read on a number of sites that you can use WD40 or 3 in 1 Oil instead of patination oil.

No different to the "inch" you've got attaching the 25x50s.....Nail gun will be quickest. You can translate that page to English as I said. Should get the option automatically on the phone.

Can't help advising on lengths etc but is it worth looking elsewhere for the screws? I posted this before about the place my mate got bulk screws for his large decking project. You can translate the link page to English: This was the company my mate used: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/ He wrote: "This is the company I got the spax decking screws off. I found they were really good and delivery was rapid as well. "

Mine IS at least made by Monument! TBH I really gave it some welly and it stood up to it. 50 year old 3/4" connections and long hardened hemp etc. Telescopic action is useful too.

Get that one off Nick like mine that he launched!

I have one of these telescopic, Monument things: It was invaluable when I had to change the taps on my parents bath, fitted in 1960! Tight? Poor access? I had to use a length of 25mm conduit to get enough leverage and bent the Tommy bar but it did it.

Have a look here: http://www.hager.co.uk/news-exhibitions-case-studies/news/amendment-3-to-bs-7671-2008/consumer-unit-selection/36231.htm

Love your shot of the candlelit dinner in the middle of the building site! Wish my missus had a GSOH!

Guessing you'd need a shallow point on any flat wood bit to avoid breaking through. I've re-ground mine before for similar.

Neatly counter bored a fraction, the top and bottom ones with a screw maybe, like it.

I thought he didn't want to lose ANY height between the shelves.....

Poundland? Tbh our Homebase one aren't too bad and have a front support. The niece's ones from Wickes look like daiking's!

How about the "industrial " look? A length of studding with (penny?) washers & nuts either side of each shelf. For cleaner lines you could cover the studded sections with 20mm white pvc conduit which would be in keeping with the 16/18mm shelf thickness. I'll have a play later with what fits into what. & here you go. M8 fits just right: You would have to set it back to miss any cornice.

Batten across the back then: Carefully notch an ali channel (B&Q) but it'd need painting. Or some decent plastic mini trunking might also work (better?). Or put some dead straight / in line battens up the centre flush with the shelf front. Or have a look at the wardrobe rail fittings you can get in S'fix for instance and put a round, tubular support up the front / centre. Would have to be careful with edge distances though. Doing it that way will add up though! Mini trunking the more I think about it! White capped poly pins. Notch the trunking to go around the shelf and stick the lid parts back on. Might work.....

Thinking something like this.....but opposite. Instead I want 8 separate transmitters and 1 receiver with 8 relay outputs that operate according to which transmitter is operated. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASK-OOK-8-Channel-RF-Wireless-Remote-Switch-Control-1-Remote-Multi-Receiver-/281147509308?hash=item4175b28a3c:g:dAMAAOSwsTxXier5

I think I'm in the MAJORITY here that THAT is begging to be demolished!