Onoff

Any chance of videoing it?

OK, these driveway alarms are great for the price. battery powered both ends and they do the range stated. A bit sensitive to large cats, foxes etc but they certainly work. You can limit the PIR detector's sensitivity by taping across the sensing window and narrowing the aperture. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-Driveway-Garage-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Alert-Alarm-Security-Intruder-System-/231321524004?hash=item35dbd65724:g:PkoAAOSwVFlUA2v3 But.....say you have a number of outbuildings. You can buy these units with say 5 transmitters and one receiver. It's the middle of the night and one goes off. Because the receiver makes the same chime irrespective of what sensor is activated you don't know if it's the gate/shed/garage that's been triggered. What would be good is say 8 transmitters with an 8-channel receiver. The receiver's output would ideally be to record your own message on an EEPROM. Sensor 1 goes off, triggers Channel 1 on the receiver and you get "Shed alarm activated!". Sensor 2......"Garage alarm activated". Moving on it it would trigger CCTV local to the sensor that you could view on say a tablet left by the bed. Hope that makes sense! Does anything like this exist?

And all of the one room..... Tbh I've gone back to Flickr having dabbled with Tinypic. Flickr is just so much easier to use, not limited to uploading 5 pics at a time and just seems slicker. Tinypic I find has pop ups and ads. Only at 0.3% used on Flickr. Think though maybe it's more "public"?

Weirdo! Why would anyone do that? Next thing you'll have filled up your Photobucket like "a mate of mine" has.....

Hoovering between joists and other never to be seen again places....music to my ears! Other people miss the point. Drives me nuts when I see piles of wood shavings where joists have been drilled.

I have been using the cheap arrow headed ones from Toolstation. Bought the set and a 10mm one too. All good. Also got a couple of grit edged hole saws which I use for copper pipe through tiles.

How bigs the video? www.wetransfer.com is dead easy up to 2GB

I find it best to take your time doing these things.....

Cheers for that. I'm sure I read back over on eBuild that because flints are so non porous then "opc" products don't adhere to them too well. As the mortar dries it shrinks around the flint. This allows water in between the flint and mortar.....which can freeze etc, etc.

The time I take she'll have her own mortgage! My boy will be driving for real soon and I still haven't finished his electric Jeep.

& things don't eat it? Got a poxy pigeon taken up residence on the ridge.....

Sorry, what's "opc"?

Marvellous. I've heard flint work is slow going. They did it "properly" near me on an extension to an original cottage and it looks great. Tbh I thought they'd never finish. Then did the local Old School building using the flint "blocks". Difference is massive. So is this a lime mortar being used? Interested as I want to do inset flint panels, using individual flints, in my gate pillars.

I reckon you're on a loser as in if the paint hasn't stuck well to the plaster..... Think I'd score the hell out of it at least if not sand it down / off.

Continuing the saga..... Knocked the floor out and made good in order to sink the motor support bracket: So that fits except the motor caught the side support. Have hacked that about but not very pretty so may re-do. Might even re-think this whole end of the carcass Now then, the feeds. Currently have hot and cold for bath plus mains for sink cold coming down in 15mm (they're not fixed yet). No problem to bend a convoluted length up minimising soldered joints to get from the copper to the bath tap position. I've shown a couple of bits of hose for the sort of line I was going to take with the bath feeds. BUT.....it's too long for flexibles. AND I want some form of easy disconnection should I need to remove the bath ever. IDEALLY I want the disconnections the wall side of the motor bracket: Any suggestions? (IGNORE please the can of SRB hiding in the stud! ) And LASTLY.....I'm having to play with the bath feet as in putting blocks underneath. Using plastic trouser shims just to get it right. These will then sit on the base of the recessed ply box as per second pic above of this post. Whats the norm doing this, just get the height required and make up all in timber? Cheers

Years back when it was just four posts and a platform I rigged a cantilvered beam with a manual hand winch for my boy. The beam was at where the eave level is now. It was meant for them to lift buckets of sand! Next thing I looked up the garden and him and his mate had looped the wire rope around the yellow roof of his old Little Tikes car and were taking it in turns to lift each other about 10' off the deck. Worrying as the car roof was only held on by self tappers!

It's pretty good tbh. There was little a bit of a sway (but not much) which was why I was anxious to get those last two galvanised feet on and concreted in. It's also got the staircase one end and the yellow foam wrapped pole the other, both concreted in. Next step is to remove the original decked area with all the junk on. Then it'll have a concrete base on a DPM and be framed out between the uprights. I'll probably do X bracing in the same 4"x4" as the uprights. Door on the left. Maybe the "walls" atop a little dwarf wall or one block high. Then breathable membrane and cladding to match the top. Should give me a 10'x5' shed for "stuff". NOT the "downstairs" my little 'un wanted! Mower lean to on the rear.

Cheap 'n cheerful, I have one of these that gets internet access across the mains to a room that hasn't got it. This is of course hard wired to the router one end and the pc the other. Just to get a feel for what's available, Maplin do wireless extenders which would allow easy tablet/phone access in the hut. You need to plug in the units on the same mains phase. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/tp-link-tl-pa4010kit-av500-powerline-kit-n20nr

Thanks. They actually "work" too. Even I, as an adult, can comfortably walk up and down them. Instead of rope for the handrail I did nearly use 20mm MDPE pipe. With a bit of further thought I reckon it would be easy enough to beef up the design for domestic use though I don't imagine BC would be too impressed!

Some on Preloved too at £10 upwards. & I never knew you could get the spares for them either: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Decker-Workmate-Spare-Parts-Pack-Feet-Leg-Catches-Clips-Handles-And-Pegs-/400527965225?hash=item5d4153bc29:g:eWkAAOxyOalTa2By

My 32 year old B&D Workmate is fecked, sitting rusting in the garden. There was a period in my life when DIY fell by the wayside etc and it got neglected. I WISH it wasn't. I reckon it could still be salvaged without too much trouble. (I was thinking of making one from Uni-Strut.....) EDIT: There's ones on Gumtree, "hardly used" for like a tenner, can't go wrong.

Is structuraldesigner a member on here? He was over on eBuild and we were talking about him advising, as a paid job, on how I might beef up my garage roof construction to allow storage up in the roof. I WAS aiming to use steels as I want to minimise the need for support columns anywhere.

Yes, I know, I should be doing the bathroom..... Got the spiral stairs near finished. Rounded the edges and gave a couple of coats of S'fix No Nonsense wood treatment stuff: Got the "handrail" ropes in but not so sure on the knots on the D rings; Bowline on the top and a granny at the mo on the lower rope. Need something I can easily undo and re-tension as required:

This was the company my mate used: https://www.klokow-gmbh.de/ He wrote: "This is the company I got the spax decking screws off. I found they were really good and delivery was rapid as well. "

I feel for you I really do. Having an old house myself where EVERYTHING needs redoing pretty much makes me very envious of those who knock down / rebuild and have a clean slate rather than dealing with old cr@p all the time!