Onoff

I blocked up a door in a 300mm ish thick, solid brick wall using 9" blocks in the bathroom when I moved the doorway. One side I left slightly recessed and just stuck a piece of plasterboard in level with the walls either side. A much deeper recess in the bathroom but that'll all be hidden by the stud wall. It's also bang where the wall mount wc is going so the extra depth is good. I used these st/st wall starters: http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-wall-starter-kit-stainless-steel/56037?kpid=56037&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CPj2-9iY4s4CFdS4GwodI9kP1A

Is a double socket rest bend an absolute must at the bottom of a soil stack? In the picture below the red lines crossing at A is where the soil from the bathroom refurb will come out. The horrible brown/black fittings going into a bit of temporary lead will go and the stack come straight down on the "A" vertical line. The new assembly balanced precariously on the left is what I want at the base of the new stack on the A line. This in turn needs to connect to the clay pipe that's roughly on line B. Height wise it's looking a tad tight to get everything in. I can gain maybe 1/2" at B. Won't know for sure until I chip away at whatever is covering the clay pipe and see what height it's at.If I was to use an ordinary 87.5o bend at C I'd gain more height. But is it frowned upon? Cheers

It's this one, already bought: http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-pressure-reducing-valve-with-guage-22mm/4671j It does already have a st/st gauze in which is removable for servicing and cleaning according to the instructions. You can see it up the inlet:

Reading the PRV instructions it says: "For residential applications where maximum protection against dirt is required, install a fine filter upstream of the pressure reducing valve". Is this really necessary? (In the words of Arthur Daley, "Stick it on the ta..." )

Just because there's no exposed pipework shouldn't you still cover the tap in winter with one of those insulated jacket things? I'd obviously sleeve the 15mm copper where it passes thru the wall. Would it be advantageous to run in an over size sleeve and insulate around the pipe?

Weird. I had had a shower just before we started filling the paddling pool. I wonder could it be that the 25gal CWS doesn't replenish the cylinder quick enough? Time for that UVC maybe!

Heated by the boiler which is oil. Immersion in the hot water cylinder is not connected / used. Header and CWS tanks sitting on the same level, dodgy wooden platform Hot water is running clear. I did wonder if the coil in the cylinder had split? Or maybe it's the cylinder stat..... Knock, down and rebuild? Wife won't have it.

It never rains but..... For no apparent reason just now the overflow pipe coming out of the eaves started pouring water, not a drop but a constant pouring also it was WARM. Figuring either header tank or CWS tank (25gal) I went up into the loft to have a look. Access is a biatch and then some. All put in by Frodo or someone of similar stature. I have to balance on a partially opened set of steps and squeeze my chest and shoulders up between the pipes to the CWS and header tanks. No room to move and a serious risk of falling off the steps / bringing the whole lot down as its on 3 bits of 4"x2" nailed to the rafters up in the apex of the roof. This is a sketch I did based on a scruffier fag packet one there originally. I've added, a good while back, x2 28mm 2-port valves below the 3-way so I can zone upstairs and downstairs. Works a treat. Pretty sure nothing to do with that. It was the CWS tank overflowing BUT the ball valve on the mains in was shut. On the tank I have: - 1) Mains in at the top via a ball valve - 2) Cold out to the bottom of the hot water cylinder - the thick blue pipe I've just drawn on - 3) Cold out dedicated to the shower pump - 4) Cold out to the bath The cold out to the bottom of the hot water cylinder was warm/hot all the way back up to the CWS tank! In that line down to the cylinder I have a 22mm ball valve. I closed that for a few minutes to stop the hot "back feeding". The overflow ceased. I then opened the ball valve again and everything seems to have settled down. Any suggestions as to what is happening here? Do I turn down the Pump (set on 3 btw)? Or is it to do with the balancing valve do you think? Cheers EDIT: If it's of any bearing and I suspect it may be we were filling up a paddling pool on the patio. Cheating I'd slipped a length of flexible cable duct over the kitchen mixer tap and turned on the hot tap and mains cold fully. Is it that I'd emptied the hot water cylinder or something. Still not sure of the mechanics of it all!

A lot of my EPS upstands were held off the uneven walls against a long board in turn held in place by bricks/blocks. The low expansion foam was sprayed in to fill the (wetted) gap. It's not strong enough to push the board out of place like the regular stuff does.

I've already cut through the 5 necessary studs with the multi-tool - 42mm from one side and the other 3mm from the other side except the first one (circle drawn on) where I had to take a bit off to get the saw in. The BFH was considered but I need to zing the 6mm screws off too rather than just bend them over. Load bearing, they're basically just deep battens. This wall's not even fixed top or bottom yet! Each stud's on with at least x5 7mm concrete screws and in some cases where these wouldn't bite and around the wc, M10 resin anchored studs.

The slow, dawning, realisation that you can't Starrett the bottoms of these studs out so easy as you affixed them, along with glue, with two of these (Don't wan't to blunt the non Starrett "Starrett"). And of course not enough room to unscrew from the bottom: "Cut them off!" you say.....then came the breaking of the one remaining sabre saw demolition blade moment! Hot on the heels, the "I never noticed that before!" moment when you see there's barely 110mm between the 2"x2" and solid wall behind the blue DPM! Looks like the back of the Aquapanel might need a groove. Along with the "Oh these Saxton blades only cut about 42mm deep and I need 45mm!": Ending with the eenie meenie miney mo moment:

Soudal Low Expansion Soudafoam, this one: http://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-soudafoam-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/5026d?_requestid=448445 Make sure you get the Low Expansion one as they do a couple very similar looking. I used it to fill gaps behind my EPS upstand where the wall tapered. Also used to fill in missing chunks of render, see by the old doorway on the left and across the back wall where the soil pipe was. I hoovered the area, sprayed it with water then foamed it. Once dry, sawed it level: It was JH put me onto Soudal products I think.

Yep, looks to be about 132mm dia and as shown the standard brackets would sit about 2" off the wall. So, as you have I might need to nibble the edge of the hole if I can't get a cutter bigger than 125mm. I imagine solvent weld 110mm fittings would overcome these problems? Just about to start marking out for drilling. Going to partially drill the joists first and and put a pilot thru both wall skins from the inside. I'll then do the joist holes 114mm with the Starrett, then the outer skin 125mm or bigger with the TCT or a core drill. Inner wall skin I might drop to 110mm but drilled from the outside to minimise dust etc. Or I may make it up as I go along! It was whether 2o was an acceptable fall really!

I'm working on a 2o fall for this soil pipe from the Geberit wall frame does that sound about right? This shows it on the CAD (for the life of me I can't print screen or export with any decent res so this is literally a photo of the screen): The stud wall is a bit of a weird one as the studs get wider as you come away from the corner to take up the taper in the walls. From the corner coming back its 95/100/110/120/120 then the 505mm gap for the frame. I'm planning to drill with a 114mm Starrett, each at the heights shown to give me the taper on the 110mm pipe. The base of each joist will then be reinforced with a bit of 18mm ply where required.

Oddly enough..... Picked the first of the plumbs yesterday evening. Washed them then sat with the youngest halving them, eating the best and throwing the bad bits into the lawn where the badgers have been having a go. I was also picking the bad ones off the tree and dropping them. This morning no more damage! Maybe they were bored and searching out the plumb scraps took their minds off of digging.

The basin sits on the pedestal that in turn needs to sit on the finished floor i.e the tiles which aren't done yet. The EXACT height of the pedestal / basin is driven by the height of the tiles. As I see it if I put a board under the pedestal "just for now" I'll have to bring up the tiles to that EXACT height unless I'm wrong? The basin gets screwed to the stud wall and there's also the height of the waste assembly which is all solvent weld so no real room there for up/down adjustment. The floor slab as it is is pretty much dead level. I guess any temporary board would have to the approximate thickness of tile+adhesive?

Isn't the Med supposed to be a breeding ground for GREAT WHITE SHARKS? Think it's Malta where allegedly attacks were put down to speedboat accidents / drownings so as not to harm the tourist industry! Just think if Herman Sorgel had gotten his way in the 1920s and dammed the Med to create Alantropa your holiday pics might have looked a bit different!

Too late? Not at all, in my world I probably haven't started the job yet! Actually it was for the tree house spiral stairs which are about 90% done.....the stairs that is, not the whole tree house!

Like a plough's been across it! I wondered if they were after the colony of slow worms that reside in a big nettle patch near where they've been digging. Other suggestions have been - they're digging for leather jacket grubs - they're digging for cockchafer grubs - they're thirsty. Leaving water out will stop them. Any ideas?

TA. The main reason is the basin as it's a pedestal type down to the floor - so I really need tiles under it.

Erm.....looks very similar to the one I just found in the car.....that must have fell out on the way back from S'fix.....

That and stumbling into the unfinished wet room corner that's lower than the slab by about 4"! And it will be dark, took the lights out with the original plumbing months ago (18 or 19 months..... ).

Ooh tiling.....seems a long way off at the mo but I know the man to ask! Question asked in another thread and I know it's possible but is it SENSIBLE to tile say half a bathroom floor to get that side of the bathroom "working"?

Ta, but don't want the job! I found that out about the tee thing at S'fix and had to do a refund / exchange for the difference of 10p when I ordered the wrong compression tee. I noticed that when they gave me the box of bits at the trade counter. Tbh I think I knew but plumb so rarely etc. What I DIDN'T notice until now that they forgot the bib tap back plate to go on the wall outside. Not too late to go and change it but I've had a beer! Where's best to position all this does the collective think? Below the cistern level or above for easy access / reading of the gauge? Below I reckon.

So..... 50mm Starrett hole in the corner of the wc: 12 then 16 then 25mm 1m SDS thru to until I hit "mud": No way, even with "wiggling" would the 25mm MDPE go through. So BiL's drill with a 32mm bit: A bit of thick wall, st/st, 50mm OD tube, cut at a slight angle, to guard against the tunnel bunnies under the floor: Where it comes in under the footings: And inside: