Onoff

Well at least it's not about 30deg and I'm digging by hand..... That bits done at least. Off to find a route in for the MDPE now. I've a 1m SDS bit but it's only 24mm dia.

.....and then leave the 22mm coupler in situ you mean? Or.....how about replacing the solder T where the drain cock is with a 22/15/22 compression T?

Thanks as always. And it's off to S'fix we go!

How do I go from 25mm MDPE to a 22mm brass stopcock? I see in S'fix they have this but poor reviews: http://www.screwfix.com/p/poly-stop-cock-22-x-25mm/97324#product_additional_details_container

I'm going to dive in and say 3 bar and then someone else will correct me.....

I will look at getting to 22mm after the 25mm MDPE so at least there's some provision for later. It may be that for now it has to stay in 15mm thereafter via a reducer. So I'm basically looking to change the position of the incoming mains more out of necessity than choice as to "where". What I have (luckily?) is a 15mm copper drop coming out of the loft to feed the antiquated downstairs wc cistern and cold for the basin. This wc is in fact at the end of a corridor hived off of the big downstairs bedroom. Wall to the left is a stud separating the bedroom, wall to the right is solid brick/block separating the totally gutted, being refurbished, downstairs bathroom (the saga of which can be found elsewhere ). So the old, downstairs wc, mains in 15mm copper coming down on the right: In the "corner": Mains 15mm coming down, teeing off to the wc and on round to the basin. The 22mm hugging the floor with the push fit elbow is the single pipe CH system that skirts the perimeter of the house. This was the (again temporary) "bypass" I did when I got rid of all the pipes in the adjacent gutted bathroom: The fact I've already had this wc out and floor up is filling me with joy.....not! When I had the floor up before. Coming in from the right, thru the wall, is the old cold, cws feed to the basin now replaced by mains feed: The fact I've even got this pipe is a by product of when I gutted ALL the pipework in the main downstairs bathroom and ran it as a "temporary" thing. The plan is for the new MDPE mains to come up thru the floor from outside and feed this pipe. And there lies more fun! The 15mm drop is literally the other side of where the main drop of this black downpipe is: Bottom left, above, you can see the hole where the old iron mains went through the footings. And close up: Putting a PRV there in terms of accessibility isn't maybe the best location but get ho! As for make of PRV, well S,fix is closest (and cheapest maybe) Sorry I didn't come back last night. Banging headache, it was 2 Neorofen and night night's for me! HTF do all my threads crossover so much? Every job clashes or gets help up by another! So much for a week on leave, even the drinks not helping! Mind you I'd be lost without the BiL and his digger as and when he's free. I really could do with one tbh. Back to the task in hand I'm thinking this MDPE stopcock as the first think after the pipe: http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-mdpe-plastic-stop-cock-25mm-x-25mm/28809 Then this 22mm/25mm adapter: http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-copper-mdpe-adaptor-kit-22mm-x-25mm/25970 Followed by this PRV: http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-pressure-reducing-valve-with-guage-22mm/4671j Cheers

Cheers. And thanks Dave for the PRV tip too. It's all gone seriously t!ts up tbh this week. Temporary repair on the water main failed to the point where the failing iron is now under the house footings. No option but to renew it all the way. Where I want to bring it in now means taking the remaining downstairs wc out for access. Sods Law the mains water needs to come in under this wall right where the 3" downpipe is. Fighting on all fronts at the mo!

Hope, not at the moment or easily. All the mains cold is in 15mm copper. And I don't yet have a UVC.....

Cheers. So you're saying: - incoming MDPE - MDPE stop valve - short length of MDPE - MDPE to 15mm copper PRV - 15mm copper - full bore lever valve ?

Evening, On the mains water I'm running 25mm MDPE in to connect to 15mm copper. I can get a PRV with these fittings either side. Is it usual to put the stopcock before or after the PRV? I can see the argument either way. Cheers

Sorry, I wrote that wrong! When drilling OFF OF HAMMER i.e just rotary, it slips and chatters (sounds like it's on hammer) like there's a torque limiter coming in. Doesn't seem to be working hard enough for this to happen.

Cheers. Just got to hope my Makita SDS holds up! A Makita HR240, it's not been very well of late. Keeps slipping on hammer, don't know if it's an easy box or not? If not it's off to borrow one.

The currently available feeds are hot from the cylinder sitting at first floor level but the pipes come up from the cylinder then go across the top of the dormer and drop back down. Cold is fed from a 25gal cws tank that sits above the dormer.

Outside the bathroom the mixture of soil and waste pipes is a complete mess. Already partially dug up due to the water leak I decided to make a start to sort it once and for all. So.....up came the concrete path that filled 7/8 jumbo bags! At the mo it's multiple, different colour 110mm pipes & fittings connecting into a clay pipe system underground. First off I need to drill a hole through the cavity wall to connect the soil run from the wall mount wc: So a bit of trimming of the stud wall inside. I'll probably trim enough that I can get a start with a core drill then drill right through with a pilot. Then do one leaf from inside and the other from the outside. I need to tee into this (brown) vertical stack that's all being replaced: The horrible, barely below the surface, brown soil pipe from the, in use, downstairs wc will be brought into this new stack, crossing where the black drain pipe from the gutter is now. The black drain pipe will be moved. Tbh I don't even know where it goes at the mo (probably into the soil system) but the trench in the picture will take it to a soakaway. Pretty much where the brown stack kinks at the bottom is where I need to drill to line up with the first picture. I've only got these: For the 110mm pipe should I use the 110mm drill then curse when I can't quite get the angle or the 125mm drill and fill round the pipe.....or the 110 on the inside and 125 outside? Cheers

Ergonomics.....the way it's looking you'll lie in the bath with your head in the corner of the room and feet the basin end which feeld "right". Taps on your left. The bath controls; jets and lights will be on your right by your feet so you'll have to sort of sit up & forward to reach them. If the bath was spun thru 180deg the taps would be on your right, the jet/light controls over your left shoulder. Got to hide the LED gel strip box too somewhere yet have it easily acessible / replaceable:

Nick, you bought this bath filler I believe: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BATHROOM-ROUND-OVERFLOW-FILLER-WITH-CLICKERPLUG-WASTE-CHROME-BATH-EXOFILL-/161023564006?nav=SEARCH What "taps" did you fit? Guessing maybe it's fed from a combined shower valve? Looks to only have one inlet in the picture..... Ta

I've a pull cord in the en suite bathroom upstairs and for the very reason of noise I've a "proper" switch in the bedroom (Clipsal as they're really quiet anyway). I've a third switch on the landing outside the bedroom that's an intermediate. If I or the wife come to bed later than the other or one of the kids needs the loo in the night they can turn the bathroom light on BEFORE even entering the bedroom. Tbh the youngest manages to navigate in the dark and uses the pull cord anyway!

A mate is looking for approx 32 75mm PIR boards 2.4x1.2m. Make not important. He reckoned about £25 each but I reckon that's way too much. I told him about secondsandco. Any other companies to look at? We're in Kent if it makes any difference. Cheers

I can feel a daiking-esque "to do" list coming on whilst Paula Abdul's going round in my head singing "two steps forward...two steps back" So...I'm glad I turned the bath around as it gives me better access to the trap. Similarly chamfering the recess in the floor was a good idea: (All this concrete under the bath'll get painted in grey floor paint ant the marine ply box re-varnished). Still got to figure out permanent feet for the bath and probably make 'em a tad taller too: Originally the bath electrical control box sat literally underneath the bath between the feet one end and the waste. From it run 5 cables: Now I'm going to place the control box just outside the bathroom in a quasi riser cupboard as you enter the bathroom. It'll also be handy for jumping into the ring there for power and fitting a local isolator. On these lines: Of course the screened cables only reach here: So I need to extend these: Level Sensor - 3 x 0.14mm (nothing special) Keyboard - 8 x 0.25mm2 (foil & screened) LED Spotlight - 4 x 0.25mm2 (foil & screened) Off to the shed / garage in a while to see what I've got in terms of screened cabling or I'll be on eBay for the short lengths I need. Ref joining the extensions I'll either solder/heatsrink/foil/heatshrink or if I can find matching plugs and sockets. I think they might be Italian KIT connectors but can't see anything written on them. Wherever the "junction" ends up I'll make a "rain" shield irrespective of how good the joins are! This is all I can find ref them at the mo on the connectors. A UK source would be good: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-Connector-terminal-SERIE-JWP-male-female-8-way-polig-auto-camper-moto-/261487095500?hash=item3ce1d86ecc:g:BqsAAOxyrrpTfh3u Now with the bath turned around I'm going to rework the removable end panel: Think I said earlier I was expecting to have to crank my pipes downward! But BEFORE I really get into that.....I'm waiting for my LED gel strip lights and have to figure the neatest detail for them. I've got to put the VCL over the wall where the pipes come out off, permanently screw the dwarf wall to the battens..... The FUN just never stops! So that's this evening's jobs!

Up until now no.....

And there's the 30/50 kicking in!

Slotted (brass, roundheads?) have got to be the most obvious if off kilter. Saying that the more you look at them the more it bugs you:

Ref the screws.....I suppose you would drive them in with a cordless then go back and tweak to the same angle with a manual screwdriver?

Google "cordless table lamp". Could you maybe site a few of these potential socket positions all interconnected with ducting and each covered with a tile etc.

Problem solved: https://www.connectionsathome.co.uk/lighting/table-lamps/fatboy-transloetje-light.html?utm_source=googleShopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=furniture&gclid=CICTwOT3zc4CFQeNGwodHxsPQw