Onoff

You're thinking the way I am! The original intent was this: But that puts the taps against the wall and not easily accessible. The wall is a cavity wall backing onto the study. Theoretically I could remove bookcases in there, hack a hole through the wall etc for a hatch. Maybe with hindsight etc! Compounding the issue is having the bath as above puts the pump motor to the right, again awkward for access. It was about then I decided to make the boxing in removable......then I decided to spin the bath 180deg. Great for accessing the pump and taps via removable panels but puts the taps and moulded projection the wrong side: So now looking at low profile deck valves so you don't catch yourself getting in/out. Or blanking the tap holes with chrome caps (I've ordered some) or doing away with them altogether and having a combined filler / oveflow.

My missus has voiced concerns it sticks out too far..... Maybe spin the bath back through 180 deg and keep the originally planned mixer tap wall side?

Under "item description": http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=272031327387&category=42347&pm=1&ds=0&t=1472712747860

Have another look, the Sundley one DOESN'T need separate valves....neither does. Filler acts as the taps in both cases.

I feel for you ref the wasps. Got used to having the garage tidy & accessible but going in there now and a good half dozen swarm around the fluorescent lights and get quite agressive. But what eats wasps? Spiders! Man up and catch the spiders with a pint glass and piece of card humanely and put them in the loft! Btw conkers are supposed to deter spiders.

Thinking "no taps". Comparing a choice of two and debating blanking off the tap holes on the tub: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNDELY-CHROME-BATH-OVERFLOW-FILLER-TAP-Control-Valve-Click-Waste-/272031327387?hash=item3f5654a49b:g:KuYAAOSwL7VWljBV or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Overflow-Exo-Bath-Filler-Tap-Mixer-Control-Valve-Push-Pop-Waste-Bathroom-/311288248473?hash=item487a39b899:g:x6IAAOSwMmBV4DKW Is one better than the other?

You mean like Rockwool batts? Not against the barrier? There's blue DPM metre up the wall behind the studs. There'll be a thinner VCL goes over the face of the studs before the Aquapanel / PB goes on. What's the worry with Rockwool then?

Why not? Green: http://www.naylor.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/NEWDuctnAccessRevised1703111.pdf Green: http://www.draindepot.co.uk/63mm-x-50m-green-twinwall-cctv-cable-duct.html

It's applicable effective from Jan 16 where the cu is fitted in a DOMESTIC premises, garage or out building. If ONLY it were that black & white! Personally in a separate meter box I'd happily see an insulated cu and use the OSG wording to back it up "where the cu is to be located in an external non-habitable building, e.g. garage or shed, which is not in close proximity to a dwelling, consideration could be given to installing a cu of non-ferrous construction". BUT you need to back it up with a risk assessment as to why and clip to the Electrical Installation Cert. Let's face it a painted or powder coated metal cu in an unheated, potentially damp meter box will start to rust around knockout holes etc. You can cite potential corrosion issues in the RA. The biggie though is it boils down to the fact metal cus we're brought in because of the perceived fire risk i.e.them being "combustible". Zero risk of the house going up if it's in a remote meter box! Wylex has always been the switch fuse of choice but check out TLC. They have an alternative for about £30. If you are looking at isolator switches, say before a cu then you won't go far wrong with a Wylex REC2. Funnily enough BG fit them round here when they put smart meters in and the REC2 is plastic! How about in the meter box an REC2 before the gate cu and the switch fuse for the house feed. Once at the house you could fit an REC2. Thus both cus have local isolation and the +3m "tails" are protected.

Raised sole plate I reckon then, tapered approx . 95 to 120mm. It's only just 110mm where it goes through the wall but the soil pipe can kick in a bit the wall mount wc end to accomodate bend knuckle. Then vertical noggins on the raised sole plate, between the studs. Fix through the noggins to the wall behind. Worth filling around the pipe with expanding foam to quieten things down?

I wasn't going to no.....though I hear what you're saying. Plan here is Aquapanel. onto the studs then tiles.....if I put ply on THEN Aquapanel it wouldn't marry up with the 1/2" PB further along the wall. I cut some 300mm high 18mm marine ply strips varying in width from 95 to 120mm as the 5 studs get wider as the wall tapers. BUT.....drilling a 114mm hole in each bit would take all the meat out and negate any supporting effect. Time for plan B (C?). Guaranteed it'll be overly complicated! I'll probably cut the studs up a bit further and introduce a tapered sole plate higher up:

That seems a good price. I've been looking here (albeit for green duct for CCTV). Their 110mm is more expensive: http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/flexible-underground-ducting/flexi-duct-x-50m-coil/110mm/black/

Do you mean this sort of thing? https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/RJ11toRJ45B.html Sometimes neater to change the whole lead on the phone.

My giddy aunt! We've used Brightlite in Maidstone a few times now. BiL had a contact there a while back. All windows still going strong.

Can only get a picture from below. Access is be squeezing up between the 15mm mains to the header and the 22mm out to the bath. As this is less than my shoulder's width it's one arm up first etc. Tight back to front on the chest too. All whilst standing on steps. Believe it or not I DO know where all the pipes go! One day this will hopefully be a distant memory:

On topic and from the TEF forum it's worth mentioning about the importance of buying decent Cat5. Ideally solid copper as opposed to copper over aluminium or copper over steel. I'm currently looking at long runs for PoE CCTV.

This might be one I have to fit in! Tried isolating the feeds to the ballcocks on the header & cws tanks, wouldn't budge! Brass stopcocks on both.

Thanks (as usual). One oddity that may have some bearing and point towards a breach in the coil is that every now and then the CH makes a gurgling noise almost as if it's suddenly lost water / has air in and is filling up. You can actually hear water running in the pipes. Then it rights itself. Whether this coincides with the CWS overflowing I couldn't really say. Maybe the time has come to carefully think about a new cylinder, whether to go to a UVC etc. Assume they're OK coupled with an oil boiler? I assume I can keep the CH "unvented" and just have just the hot water at mains pressure?

Cheapo 125mm cutter did the job: Temporarily blocked up for now. All studs chopped out. Sabre saw till I hit the screws then the BFH. Screws zinged off with a slitting disc:

Primed:

Definitely not the sun. The 22mm pipe that comes down from the CWS tank into the cylinder was quite hot and feeding back into the bottom of the CWS tank. It was mixing with the mass of cold and overflowing thus what was coming out of the overflow was warm. The CWS tank ball valve was closed.

100% the CWS tank, NOT the little one that tops up the CH etc.

Don't you need top and bottom (metal?) trims etc?

The cws overflow was verily pi$$ing out warm 'ish water. I shut the ball valve in the feed from the cws tank to the bottom of the cylinder for maybe a minute. The overflow stopped. There was some gurgling in the cylinder and it all settled down. Been fine since.

Sounds like a parallel universe! The NE facing wall where I'm messing around with the drains is of mixed construction with a common, rendered face - Front bedroom solid brick - Bathroom breeze cavity Even the render isn't uniform - one bits smooth the other looks like it's been stippled with the basket from a deep fat fryer! The bedroom has no wall insulation. The bathroom, the subject of the long running saga, is battened out with 2x2 and insulated between with a minimum of 50mm PIR. Each batten sits off the wall by 5mm minimum and is foamed behind the batten. The battening was mainly done to hide services and square the room up. Hotch potch is the word! EWI across that back face seemed like a good idea. EDIT: Have you DIY EWI supplier in mind?