Onoff

+ = QED

The sticky out Geberit box thing the flush plate goes on.....is it just a case of careful measuring then cut a rectangle in the cement board to suit as close as and you snap off the exess projecting box later once you've tiled? Or should I leave say a 3mm nom gap all round in the cement board? Cheers

Solar thermal from BEER cans!

OK, here are my "tees": Coming across from the left (under the 2-way valves) is the 28mm return, goes from the bottom of the coil in the cylinder back to the boiler. Marked and coming in from the left is the UPstairs CH return, coming up from the bottom of the photo is the DOWNstairs CH return They both then tee into the 28mm return to the boiler. EDIT: Need to do some more checks. Just realised I've marked those 2-way valves above WRONG!!! CH-DN should be on the left and CH-UP on the right.....

Would have expected if that (convection) was the case then for the LAST rad on the single pipe system to be the one getting warm as that is nearest to the commoning point of the two returns. BUT it's the first rad on the single pipe system i.e the first one after the two way valve.

And we're back..... Originally the house had no heating at all upstairs. Just the 4 rooms of the dormer. Downstairs had (still has) the old 3/4" nominal bore single pipe system. After the 3-way valve I "split" the CH into 2, 2-way valves as marked below; CH Upstairs & CH Downstairs: There's no doubt a better way but back then I put a wall stat in the lounge downstairs and a stat in the then one child's bedroom to g'tee his room stayed at the set temperature. I added two 230V contactors. When the room stat calls for heat it switches appropriate Upstairs or D'stairs contactor. That in turn switches the Upstairs or Downstairs 2-way valve (or both) and the rads heat up. The returns of the F/R upstairs and single pipe downstairs systems are commoned up. Noticed by chance of late that if, with both 2-way valves closed I boost the Upstairs CH then the CH Up valve opens as it should and upstairs warms up. BUT.....without the CH Dn valve being open or its contactor made the FIRST rad downstairs gets warm (not hot). Guessing valve CH Dn is letting by?

Go on, got a link as to what will fit and why this won't? (Guessing too long?)

I was getting mixed up with the fittings! This is what I'm doing on mine using the 90/110 black pan outlet elbow (from Peter). Lets me go straight into the grey ring seal fitting which will be the only hidden, non solvent fitting: Means this is spare; pan connector, 90/90mm pan outlet, Geberit 90mm (F) to 110mm (M) adapter: Needs to go into a 110mm push fit /ring seal. Yours if you want it Barney.

Dunno, the wall mount wc I've just got is 95mm dia at the outlet pipe. I might be getting mixed up with the bit after the pan connector that has the right angle bend in.....

Good shout ref the cistern side. I was more meaning the what will be hidden soil pipes with the (in my case) multiple solvent joints.

Doesn't look like I'll have any gap tbh. The front of the Geberit frame I've got dead flush with the face of the studs. There's no real "test" for this is there before the pan goes on? Just do everything "right" and hope!

What dia is that pan outlet? I've a couple spare that might fit?

I reckon.....you could run an Evolution saw around the top bottom and sides of a fridge and take a section out thus making it shorter front to back..... Then glue together with expanding foam and pop rivet some side plates in to hold it all together.

All it needs is a light dusting of Halfords finest silver spray paint to be right up there with "The Faberge Dog's Egg" as featured in Viz.

Some hope, playing Dad's taxi to a roller disco. Soon be home sniffing the Fischer resin!

Decided I couldn't live without access to the flexible tap connector going to the cistern. So...out with the multi tool:

I'll give you exact measurements if you want?

I know a bloke put a huge bath in. He's finding he doesn't really have enough HW to fill it.

Just playing with some fittings here in case it helps, assume the maple Contiboard is the OSB wall: Two 45o solvent weld, M/F then a solvent/ring seal adaptor then push fit pan connector. 150mm from "OSB" to centre of 110mm. Projects nom 300mm along: Then two 67.5o solvent weld M/F, puts centre of pipe nom 200mm from "OSB". Projects along about 275mm:

Mate uses Vonage. https://www.vonage.co.uk/business/small-home-business/

Out of interest, would 90os be a definite no-no here, in the interests of keeping everything tight? Or is that just asking for a literal log jam?

Sort of like I've done here then: Possibly a couple of 67.5o bends? I'll have a look later at the, ahem "over ordered" bits I have...

Pity the Quinetic ones don't offer a dimming function.

I bet you're chuffed.....

Oh thing of beauty! Looks fantastic.