Onoff

There's quite a few videos on YouTube (mainly American I think) for DIY foam application. Kits as well as services offering it on eBay too.

We've something similar. Chose a mixed berry hedge so there's something all year round for the birds.

Does that extend to making the heat exchanger in the MVHR? Half serious question that, when I read the thread title I actually thought that's what you were up to.....and something I've wondered about myself.

I see they quote a tolerance of 123 to 128mm. Just wondering how accurate their given measurements are? Not that it'd be an issue if it were me, I've had worse from Wickes bought new!

I've been in @PeterStarck's place and it is without doubt the warmest, quietest, most draught free house I've ever been in. Sure a lot had to do with the spray foam getting into places rigid PIR just wouldn't. (To be fair it's the ONLY Passivhaus place I've been in).

If you need access say a stop valve, lighting transformer etc from above then you can use this: http://www.super-rod.co.uk/media/press-clippings/ace-in-the-hole.html Limited access to actually do anything like change a fitting though as you can only get one hand in. Best to design out random junction boxes etc. VERY USEFUL though if you come across a glued and screwed T&G floor and have to run a new circuit! (Good too for making access points to drop rat bait under old suspended floors).

FFS don't be tempted to use angular ring nails!

Thinking about it, the last BSP joint I did was the garden tap. Following @Nickfromwales instructions to the letter I think I wound on "25-28 turns" of PTFE tape. I was still thinking it was far too much as I was tightening it up but the advice was bang on.

@Grosey, did you get a hammer tacker? Just seen this: http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=42466

I'm hooked on this stuff tbh: http://sespipeline.co.uk/Jet-blue-jointing-compound-steam-water-oil-gas-bss-wolseley A revelation on threaded fittings. Lubes and seals. No more squeaky brass compressions or weeps. Think @Nickfromwales favourite is "Gasseal". The Jet Blue is labelled specifically for potable water, is why I went for that instead. Perhaps some of this and a box of assorted fibre washers? LIDL btw we're doing BIG assorted boxes of O rings and washers for a fiver each.

22mm T&G chip with Spax floor screws. Solider than a solid thing and no squeaks.

By the power of Fosters: 17, 54 & 95mm standard Starrett cutters. My first rodeo doing this so happy enough. Just got to cut the rectangle out for the flush plate now!

As in apply the "pink grip" to the (blue) metal frame too as well as the timber studs? As in screws that go through the AP and into the metal frame? How about this MS polymer adhesive...only 'cos I've got some? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p89121?mkwid=sJfnABj8u_dc&pcrid=142453205744&pkw=&pmt=&product=89121&gclid=CKTElPm0wtICFaMy0wodsCgL_Q Cheers

Just thinking.....I don't have a template with this Geberit frame..... Oh well, measure thrice etc!

Wickes it is then!

Indeed. I seem to remember a Tomorrow's World years ago where someone came up with a "Sparklet" powered preservative injector. They were going around Scotland fitting the things to telegraph poles to improve their longevity.

Good shout on the pink grip though it'll probably be whatever generic "sticks like" I've got as I need to start using stuff up rather than buying new. As for screws there's these that are apparently meant for the Aquapanel: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Aquapanel-Gold-Screws-39mm/p/224585 Don't look like they have ribs under the head for countersinking. Again, I've a load of st/st screws got from S'fix on clearance so will likely use them. The reviews however are generally in favour of the Knauf ones in the link.

Behind the wc was only ever going to be MR plasterboarded. To the right of the wc, the wet room corner was where it was to be floor to ceiling Aquaboard. I reckon that for the sake of adding a bit of 2"x2" up the stud to the right of the Aquaboard below I can use one, on end board to cover the wc frame. I'll put a noggin in then MR plasterboard above. Also, now I'm using the solvent weld soil fittings I don't have to worry about the collar thickness so won't have to put a packing strip on every stud!

That shot with the patio doors.....first thought was is the floor laid to falls..... Is the long length of timber though a good enough straight edge when it comes to an argument? Even MY WIFE wouldn't be happy with that.

Dancing to my own tune a bit but I've decided to eschew the Geberit wall fixings and instead use my own concoction. M10 studs Fischer resin anchored 100mm into the 9" block wall then studding connectors. Frame will thus be fixed 2 at the base, 2 up each side (into the studs)and these two into the wall behind. Going to line the old doorway behind with some 25mm EPS all the way up to keep things tidy:

Ta all. Maybe just a smidge of Jet Blue Plus then.

@Nickfromwales, what's the favourite here please, PTFE, jointing paste or just 'kin tight ? Cheers

This doesn't bode well for the Homebase CERAMIC tiles my missus wants for the floor!

I've a couple of old HV mats that I shift around to lie on. Like yesterday morning changing the discs & pads out on the unmade drive!

When i was an apprentice I worked with an old chap who had lived where I live now, years later. Back then most "houses" here were timber frame / tin roofs. Fred said that when his father and others had poured their slabs they had first put down a layer or coarse broken glass. This simply to deter the rats from chewing up through the floor. We've had the occassional rat issue under the suspended floor. I think the issue is maybe where the various extension walls were put on - there's gaps below floor level. Won't be properly sorted until the floors come up like you're doing. As for squirrels, had them in the eaves (dormer bungalow). I found the "cure" was to fit those circular eaves vents. Guess it just makes it too damn cold in there. Unfortunately I think they've moved to the garage!