Onoff

These Knauf screws do seem rather "tough" tba. Go in with very little spoil generated as the ribs countersink the board. I just took the screws out and there was no "lift" of the board as it backed out. Hardly any breakout at the back and a clean hole bored with no pilot. Each screw has Aquapanel precisely engraved on the head and they are reassuringly expensive! Where the wc is going is just one Aquapanel where the red line is. Blue centre lines of where I can get fixings:

And THIS from Knauf; 15mm edge distance, 250mm centres, the same panels and screws as I have: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.siginsulation.co.uk/Literature/Aquapanel%20Leaflet.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj4wqSk_ojTAhXlIsAKHbShAq8QFgg4MAM&usg=AFQjCNHIvn1VhjvRVUiPI5vDY9_SSMUHqQ Go figure! Yep, seen some utter crap put in and good materials put in badly (I too work in London in high rise buildings).

The 39mm Knauf DIY Maxi Screws put in with the Makita and sunk just under flush into a test piece of Aquapanel - no pilot:

Don't blame me if they're shite! More to peruse... https://hartingtonheath.com/product-category/rocker-switches/

Glass? http://www.wirelesslightingstore.com/glass-switch-glass-panel-light-switches.html

Well Blondie here is sinkin' em flush:

Good call, like with some flat plate stuff needing the extra depth! I thought he was meaning face plate hole centres being non standard. I've got some commercial stuff like that somewhere...

Just DON'T fit a non standard back box or you might regret it. If you really must go off piste you can get paintable accessories to blend with your wall & even ones you can wallpaper behind a clear plastic front. What about Retrotouch's Crystal range? All glass fronts "as seen on GD" if you like that sort of thing . Only thinking they do slim rockers though nowhere near as minimalist as Trendi. (Never fitted them btw). Or how about leather clad rockers! If you go away from the big names you might struggle with choice and even support down the line. Google "bespoke light switches".

Some of the Varilight range looks quite minimalist as does Hager and Schneider - all do neat round button switches. If it's freaky sh!t then have a look at Lithoss from Belgium...mental! You'll be wishing you fitted good old MK when it comes to replacing the odd one a few years down the line!

I was taught woodwork at school when there was none of this new fangled self cutting stuff screw wise. Everything had a plain shank which required a clearance hole. Slotted was the norm and a Phillips head was considered exotic. Always wary of "needs no pilot".

I thought you really risked jacking if you don't pilot the board to CLEAR THE screw i.e the actual outside diameter of the threads. Just drilling a pilot the shank size still risks jacking IMHO. EDIT: I can alternate between stainless and Knauf screws if it keeps the peace!

You're at odds there with @PeterW. back on 6 Mar he said: "Use the Knauf ones ..! They are coated not to rust and cut through the board without drilling. You risk shearing a st/st one unless it's top quality. They only get put in just flush with the surface of the board anyway - not like PB where you want them to pull in slightly." So I bought Knauf ones! They look pretty good tbh. St/st was my first choice I'll admit. The load of on clearance ones I got from S'fix are pretty good but I have stripped a few heads under high torque. It was just the 250mm centres Knauf reckon seemed too much. Got the offcut from the flush sleeve I'm going to go and try affixing to a stud!

Reading @jack's nightmare post ref his tiles had made me question my own potential movement issues: Worried first about the Geberit frame flexing/moving. I've put timber studwork in at nom. 503mm inside to inside. To affix the top of the Geberit frame I've put a length of Unistrut, Fischer resined with 5 M10 studs. Theoretically with those 3 additional studs in the centre even if the outer two fail the frame should hold. All 5 studs btw go in about 100mm into the 9" blocks where I blocked a doorway up. VERY roughly rendered as I've had some to use up: (Lining the old doorway with 25mm EPS offcuts just to keep everything tidy). So, assuming the resin studs hold there's also 2 bolt holes each side in the blue frame. These measure 10x9mm. The coach screws I have are 8mm. Worried about movement there: They actually go in from the other direction, this just to show the "slop". Wondering whether to drill out and up to M10 coach screws: Will they really do anything at M8? Then, the vertical timber studs: The whole stud wall is a big, tapered stud wall hung from the ceiling joists. The stud wall itself is tapered too. The first stud is 100mm and the last 145mm deep. This was to square the room off. This is looking down on the gap where the old doorway was / the wc is going: The studs are generally affixed using concrete screws but where the wc goes I've doubled up with M10 stuff, again resin anchored. All studs are foamed behind. (Pretty sure that in itself offers some security). If the studs should dry out over time I worry about the (timber) stud moving about the M10 stud. Each position is counterbored and affixed with a fr washer, spring washer and full nut. The reason for this "worry" as I say is Jack's issues. Next the Aquapanel. Knauf say to use their 40mm screws at 250mm centres. Seems too far apart to me? Do these self drill?

Making me paranoid about my studding and boarding all this! Just thinking of questions to ask!

@Brickie you're making us work for this one! Straight from the AEG site but I think the same parts list as I already posted: http://shop.aeg.co.uk/search?pffv=0&ppc=8&psf=4&prpp=20&ssv=91460560500&psfo=A&ppn=2 @PeterW is bang on that bearings might come part and parcel of the spider - even though the bearing inside is bog standard. Had similar with the Bosch d'washer. Said the element was part and parcel of the instantaneous water heater and I'd have to replace the whole thing at about £150. Managed to replace just the element at a fraction of the cost. Honestly UK Whitegoods forum is the place if really stuck.

Have a look through this parts listing for your model: http://shop.electrolux.co.uk/search?ssv=91460560500 I have but couldn't see any bearing listed. Have tbh only just woken up and looking on the phone!

PMSL!

NOTHING pi$$es my missus off more than when I repair a domestic appliance and she was hoping for a new one! Bosch dishwasher is coming up 20 years old.

You need another number as above: http://www.partmaster.co.uk/washing-machine/l75480wd-91460560000/bearing/catalogue.pl?shop=aeg&path=108434&model_ref=2549563&refine=bearing I've tended to use espares myself, others favour Ransom Spares: http://www.espares.co.uk/search/ma143pt1553/washing-machines/bearings/aeg

https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forumsphpbb3/spares-help.html

Crashplan works on all platforms and the free one backs up once a day ( whereas the paid for one backs up continuously). If you backed up to a 2-disc Synology (with two 2TB discs) you could set up for Raid 1 if you're really worried about losing data. Less than £300. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID

"Reconditioned".....probably means they've cleaned it and reseated the cards and leads! I always wonder when I go down the tip how many of the duff pcs down there would be perfectly serviceable with a bit of tlc. For £300 you could set up a nice 2 bay Synology disk station (NAS) with your data spread over two drives for redundancy. All your media would be accessible on any connected device.

Zoom in on the first photo and you can see the top flange of the I beam. This is the I beam in the second photo supporting the line of full depth blocks. Think I'd squirt some foam down the gap (or from the underside) the stop the concrete falling through.

No idea where to put this but if anyone fancies a crack at an iris door/window shutter here's the link to the DXF: http://makezine.com/projects/mechanical-iris/ Should be easy to scale up.

Isn't it if the tv is one of those that comes out of the bottom of the DOUBLE BED in the garden room that you have an issue?