Onoff

What laser have you got?

I'm using Aquapanel 1200x900x12.5 laid horizontal in the wet room corner. Floor to ceiling is nom 2740mm less floor tiles so 3 panels high and a strip along the top as needs be. It'll have the hell tanked out of it after anyway. (Need to buy another board(s) as I purloined one to go behind the wc).

Not sure. Water from a dehumidifier has I think less minerals than normal but isn't anywhere as pure as distilled water. The commercial reach 'n wash systems are connected to a tap or fed from a damn great tank in a van.

Erm...that's nice...what am I looking at?

A water fed pole using "pure water" / de-ionized water if you want everything streak free. Like this: http://www.ionicsystems.co.uk/en/on-site.php You'll need deep pockets though!

Got the wet room corner clear (thanks to the totes etc). Hoping a tidy space would give me some impetus.....but NO, just more questions! 1) From concrete floor to ceiling is nom. 2470mm. Plan is to tile to the full height. But whether to go horizontal or vertical? I think I need to do it so the bottom tile is the one that gets cut so that can follow the falls when I cast the wet room corner? 2) Need to make a 45 deg section in the studwork to support the angled tile face. Pretty sure @Nickfromwalesdid the corner square first THEN did the mitre bit? 3) Need to source a suitable shower valve. Must have a removable hose /spray AND overhead facility - possibly ceiling mounted. 4) Pockets, one each side, but what height? Thinking on lines of Part M (plus convenience in later life). No higher than 1200mm like light switches? Cheers

OK, it's actually come in handy:

How about if the site was on a slope? Wouldn't the earth under the house get continually "replenished"?

Hmmm.....there's loads of diagrams on Google showing "earth tubes" under passive houses and "ground heat exchanger". I Googled "the ground under a passive house" and went to "Images".

Iceland is expensive. I can get four cans of Guinness in LIDL for a pound a can but they want £4.59 in Iceland! (Mum often goes there though).

My take on a normal "tote" out of one of these oil containers. First impression is it's a FAIL. A bit too wibbly wobbly to stack for a start. Then can't think of an immediate use. Maybe useful as a cleaners bucket with the old spout hole as a handy receptacle for the squeegee. I've made a couple more of the other style anyway.

PM me any idiot questions and I'll ask for you. I have no shame!

Ta. For some reason I thought it was "inherent" heat in the ground or heat rising. You're suggesting I guess that it'd be a dead spot underneath. No chance of that bit of ground being warmed from the sides - and heat kept there by the slab? Be interesting to know though what the ground temperature is under a passive slab.

Numpty question I'm sure but here goes: As I understand it a GSHP absorbs heat from the ground into the liquid within the "long" pipe run. The pipe has to be at a certain depth for the ground temperature to be stable. What I wonder is the ground temperature directly under say the 300mm EPS of a passive type house? It should be warmer at a shallower depth? This because of the insulation above trapping the heat. The progression of this thought process is would it be viable to include a ground loop under the footprint of a passive type house.

Don't forget your reclaimed or seconds scaffold boards and the belt sander!

My two little 12V Makita drills did some serious work. First Nicad batteries then NiMH. All dead now sadly. I even changed the drill chucks to 13mm and never managed to kill either.

Ta. That was all 48.3mm OD galv tube. I noted whilst in a big TP branch a while back that they did the fittings.

Not furniture per se but it's a doddle. I cut it on an Evolution chop saw and spray the cut ends with zinc spray. Also grease the grub screws. I use Tubeclamp btw which is compatible with the Kee stuff. Last used some offcuts and leftovers on the tree house balustrade and spiral stairs: http://www.tubeclamps.co.uk

Baaaaaaa! Crapple. 'Nuff said.

Hmmm.....having a quantity of empty (biodegradable) hydraulic oil containers..... A couple of minutes works on each with the multitool: one for hammers and bolsters, another for saws. One for clamps, one for the resin kit etc. Even one to keep all the Geberit cistern bits together. Dead easy to move 'cos of the handle and stack: Going to make one a bit different maybe for silicon guns & tubes, another for "cleaners".

Sadly I can see where you're coming from... I need very shortly To drill a hole in the top Of the cistern and run A pipe into the loft A small fan I'll source From an old pc To rid the pan of the smell Of wee and faeces .....

Ended up a bit short on one of the studs I'd resined into the wall! Had to introduce another studding connector, so there's the original Geberit stud on the left, then a 30mm bit of studding between the two connectors in the photo then the stud into the wall:

So are you saying to ditch these BZP (M12?) studs that came with the Geberit frame and change to stainless?

I've sat in meetings with some of the stellar names in the world of architecture and some of the anal requests they make and that come to fruition are mind boggling. One was concerned at seeing the end of a series of 2mm wall / 18mm dia st/st tubes that sat inboard of the curtain wall facade 3m apart.....FIVE FLOORS UP! "Pinpoints of light" was the phrase used I believe. I just said we could heat treat to colour the st/st but wouldn't guarantee it wouldn't affect the properties of the 316. Another ignored a B.S. COP and the major builder etc all just bowed down to it. (The system doesn't comply to this day). I've had drawings covered in their red pen comments batting back our design suggestions. We do what they ask then when it doesn't work change it later and charge the earth. They're often treated like Gods the big names.

To get a draw string through I favour a square of plastic bag with a small hole in the centre. I thread a string through and knot / tape it back to the bag. I then form it into a sort of cone and insert in one end of the pipe. Then attach the vac the other end with some duct tape to make a seal. Job done.