Onoff

3D print a custom plastic piece to recess it and look neat. You sketch it, I'll print it.

Did you have the fagging system then?

I think it's in the terms of his release, to keep the urges under control...

Sorry, you go to see her whilst you're naked?

What you really need is a fibre laser. Sorry couldn't resist.

So when you've finished with the basement captives is it straight into a bath of hydrofluoric acid?

Mine is a semi sunken bath, floor of bath level with bathroom floor, set in a marine ply surround. I insulated the two "outer" walls.

& icky...

Get a 2A one like I linked. Higher amperage won't really matter, the device will just take what it needs. Just don't go lower than 1.7A. The bigger you go A wise the bigger it will be physically. If you got clever you could likely even hide the transformer section (it's actually a PSU) in a routed out pocket underneath the shelf if you made that appear "deep".

47mm back box with PSU in that? How deep is the block on the inner leaf? You can go deeper with socket extensions. For example: https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/appleby-sb680-2gang-25mm-extension-box-frame? This one is 79x54x33 for instance: https://www.powersuppliesonline.co.uk/gsm36b18-p1j-36w-18v-2a-power-adapter.html Might need a right angle figure of 8 plug inside etc. Put a DP switch in a switch blank. Depends how handy you are / confident with electrics but a low profile as in pretty much invisible solution is possible.

Hide a laptop type supply somewhere in the depth of the wall? @canalsiderenovationdid similar if I recall ref her door entry system? Think that was a DIN rail mounted PSU.

Just looking at the plug here on our Alexa and it's under 5.5mm diameter. The pin is I'm guessing under 2.1mm dia as well. This PSU is only 12V, 1.25A though

Ta. This is more the case with my house where it would have helped. There's one room, block built with a 2" cavity. Outside is rendered so most are sealed. Inside it's just 1" batten onto the blocks then 1/4" hardboard and woodchip paper. Behind the hardboard there's a gale blowing. Comes up through the suspended floor into the walls too.

By not page coating the blocks but having a really good, airtight, dot and dabbed, boarded wall do you not end up with it "cold" behind the plasterboard?

Candlewick bedspread

Bet you've ridden a few mares too eh?

A drinks cabinet, radiogram, sideboard...

O/S MK2 Capri door, 28" CRT telly, soldering iron burns on the carpet etc.

Indeed, Merry Christmas! Doing my best to support local business:

It's actually a UC 😂 Flanges are 11mm thick and the web 7.3mm. 9" grinder with 2mm discs all day long.

Where abouts in the country are you?

Tight git! Around a tenner on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265214398973?

Other side of the coin, same coin. Good insulation works to keep heat in as well as out. If you've an already cold room that's well insulated it'll stay cold. Put some heat in there and it should warm up quicker and lose heat slower than an uninsulated room.

The pub is the same. Solid flint walls about 500mm thick. Always cool in the Summer.

Yes. In particular the most insulated rooms feel much colder in Summer. It's a pretty good indicator of the value of insulation, it works both ways. The study is insulated, walls, floor and ceilings. It has one small radiator. It is the warmest room in the house. However it has just an open doorway/arch so your feet can feel cold due to the draughts. We've put a curtain across it. It often gets too warm. The "new" bathroom is cool in Summer and near freezing in Winter. Biggest issue is I've multiple ceiling penetrations. When they are sorted, even without heating I have high hopes for it being much better as it'll be a near airtight, insulated envelope around it.