Onoff

As others have said, multiple times it'd be an idea to do a test dig. Yes btw I've done similar in a single room. First clear the room! -Kango the floor: -Remove the floor to separate pile outside. Think I shifted about 70 or 80 rubble bags then the soil on top: -Dig down. The depth will vary according to your floor build up/design: -Distribute the soil where you can outside. It grows btw. -Grade the removed floor / break up to reuse as a sub base. I used max 40mm. -Level this off. The paint splodges are where I had stakes banged into the dirt to ensure a constant hardcore thickness: -Compact: -Blind with sharp sand: -Lay a layer of 25mm EPS: -Lay a DPM. Note there's a 2" thick upstand of EPS around the perimeter. This is to help take up the expansion of the slab when it heats up. (I did too add extra expansion strip). -Lay PIR min 150mm. Did mine in 2 layers, 50+100, staggered the joints and foil taped: -Lay UFH pipes, cheap even if you don't use them. I used Polypipe panels but you can staple to the PIR if you put another plastic membrane over the foil face: -Lay A142 mesh: -Lay concrete 100mm deep. I had various areas shuttered off for the part sunken bath and wet room corner. I used "wet" mixed concrete. I forgot to add strengthening fibres to the mix for this! The mesh should negate the need.....I hope. The concrete comes to the height of the expansion/perimeter strip. -Tile: Ask multiple stupid questions along the way and take years off forum member's lives in the process! 😂

Have a line of bricks level with the top of the lintel and a uPVC packer underneath?

Have you got a wall plate to go atop the blocks? Add a 55mm bit of timber or 50mm uPVC extension piece?

8 in the bathroom, 19 in the stairs room, 24 in the study, 19 in the lounge.

@zoothorn it looks great. Very easy to doze off in there I bet! Tell me you fitted smoke & CO alarms in there? Kidde do combination ones.

I think it's Finland where the chimney takes a convoluted route to better heat up the mass of the chimney stack.

Just wait until he turns up on one of your actual sites!

If you've been a good boy somebody might need those chimneys soon!

It's very easy to install Celotex wrong. How you cut, i.e how square can have a major impact in how tight it fits against the joist. One way of near guaranteeing at least one side is tight to the joist is to cut 5mm under width. Hold in place with some nails then gun foam the hell out of the gap.

So.....in the sketch below, if the black is the aluminium spreader, that has to be butt tight against the underside of the routed chipboard (where the arrow is)?

11.6 degC in the lounge here when I got up. Sat with a fleece jacket and bobble hat on. When this black coffee I currently have my hands around has done it's thing, I'll need to brave the bathroom 😉

@zoothorn's floor? I don't think he knows. Like me. Out of 8 rooms downstairs I have 7 different floor constructions.

Slight thread drift but in my kitchen I've considered leaving the wall units in place and digging a big rectangle out of the middle of the floor. Then insulating bottom and sides of the excavated hole, adding UFH pipes and topping off with concrete back to the original level. In effect a big heat store.

My kitchen floor is about 4 or 5 inches higher than the rest of the house. The previous owner had a damp issue so laid a plastic sheet down and poured a slab. When I cored out the "new" slab for the breakfast bar leg it had the old floor lino under the slab.

Ah, the master of floor jobs speaks!

@zoothorn I feel your pain. This is my lounge with the probe sat on the floor: Then with the same probe hanging off the light fitting. The probe is about 5' from where it was on the floor. Quite a big issue here is the suspended wooden floors. Cold air just comes in through the air bricks and up through the uninsulated floors, through plug sockets, around skirting etc. Gutting sat here with a beanie on and under a blanket KNOWING what needs to be done and having the ability to do it. It all needs gutting back to the dirt at floor level, the joists in the ceiling and the bare brick/block walls. SWMBO just won't buy into doing it yet will happily burn through oil and sit moaning how cold it is.

F*** it, let 'em burst. Might convince SWMBO we need to start doing things round here my way rather than her mental attempts at papering over the cracks. She won't buy into my ideas primarily as it's my idea. Menopausal madness.

Ooh, totally tropical! I've 175mm of insulation under my bathroom floor, it's made a huge difference in there...

You can get upvc extensions to go at the header like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362475908487 However...you really want to get the same make to ensure it clips in properly.

I like pickle as much as the next guy but I wouldn't go that far!

You at the fertility clinic again?

Sorry, thought this was a urology thread.

We're just revisiting the printer enclosure, moving the printer PSU outboard and making a sealed cabinet to better print the nasties like ABS.

Hmmm.....as he appears to have no intention of getting a job I try and keep him busy..... 24 at Christmas, I'd been working 8 years at that age 🤬

2 handles on the fridge freezer and one on the freezer, all cracked and broken over the years. When laddo first got his 3D printer he made some new ones in white PLA. That was early days in terms of knowing about infills and reinforcing around screw holes so the handles failed and delaminated over time. They also got dirty and were hard to clean. SWMBO's liberal use of bleach may have hastened their demise of course. Cue now and his latest efforts in grey PETG: These will get a spray coat of Parkside Clear Plastic Paint and we'll see how that stands up.