Onoff

Don't forget to tie the mesh together where it meets or "they" might get through the "sag".

I'd go for the 600mm X 10m, holes are "squarer".

I'm making a stainless camera bracket for a mate at the moment. All cut, just got to weld it up. Goes on the corner of the house, sticks out far enough to see past the drain pipe: M3 stainless rivnuts:

I reckon they've a 50 year plan. Flood us with craptonics. Control our power distribution. Come the Big Overvoltage & Hack of 2073 EVERYTHING goes bang / catches fire and stops. Of course the electric fire engines won't work... 😉

I'm thinking directional intake and extract on simple wind vanes. So it intakes on the prevailing side, exits on the lee.

I suppose you'd term this "PWV", Prevailing Wind Ventilation: https://sustainabilityworkshop.venturewell.org/node/1028.html Not so great if nextdoor smokes strong weed, likes bonfires or has an open cesspool...

Guessing the Passiv Haus Trust aren't going to argue against it! 😂

How much did you pay?

Yes, there was a bit on the news yesterday about these people: https://www.biohm.co.uk/mycelium

Mycelium?

The old ensuite won't be gutted any time soon so I need a quick fix, cheap 😉, shower door to go between these two tiled faces. Nom 790mm. Something like this. Are they all much of a muchness? https://www.elegantshowers.co.uk/clearance/elegant-760mm-frameless-pivot-6mm-glass-reversible-cubicle-door-978.html Cheers

Given the trend for that "clean look" would you care to do the math on "that" as a source of insulation?

Men In Sheds etc?

There's always a smart ar5e! 🤣

Top left corner of the pallets, you can see the one of the M10 bolts and the 50x50 square, M10 galv washer used to secure the corner together. Before putting the next level of pallets on, you slip in "uprights" the same width as the existing pallet uprights. Gave them sticking up and screw to them through the top and bottom pallet.

Yes, I'm lucky to have lots of them about that length. Only thing is my ones are black. They were used to secure cable drums together. If I didn't have these I'd buy the cheapest, zinc plated studding.

Bet that's a first ever sentence on any forum, anywhere! 😂

Screwed together. I've a stock of low grade, M10, nuts and long bolts here. It's what I'll use. Covered in grease probably.

I have used BT1 before but think it's a bit more "permanent" than ordinary silicone, as in it has good adhesive properties like CT1 but with an added fungicide or something. The white BT1 isn't supposed to yellow either like the white CT1 does. I wonder how easy BT1 is to remove/renew... For a white, non yellowing silicone I really like Forever White which I used in the above pictures. The grey was Mapei. Ref gaps, what I did, following sage* advice on here, was brought my wall tiles down with a nom 1mm gap to the floor. It's pretty easy to do and get right to end up with this: You place your bottom tile like this and cut allowing for the grout line. When you flip it over, the cut edge is sitting on the 1mm packs. You force clear CT1 into the 1mm gap and tool it flush. When set go over with a cosmetic silicone of your choice. * Aka @Nickfromwales 👍

Btw, you want to aim for no more than 5mm silicone bead of silicone if you can. When I say 5mm as in using a "5mm" tool. Buy the Fugi Cramer silicone tooling kit. It allows even a novice (like me) to get excellent results. You do not need soapy water or a wet finger!

Yes, something like this: When the silicone gets grubby, renew it. How far off the tray do your tiles finish out of interest?

Just to add, with 3 short rods slung in (and I do mean slung in, I was going to tidy it up but will just remove them if I go with the plate) I'm seeing 13.3 ohms earth loop impedance and 17A pfc (L - PE) to earth. Short video:

All those years of self abuse catching up with you?

Thanks. This too refers to the plate being set vertical but at a lesser depth than your link suggests. https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Installation_and_measurements_of_earth_electrodes

I'm trying here to improve my TT earthing arrangement. Soil isn't the best, this topsoil, heavy clay chalk. Every layer scattered with copious large flints. There was an old 3/8" dia 4' rod in. Replaced with a new 5/8" 4' rod and remade all the connections. Made naff all difference. I've now got 3 5/8", 4' rods in, spaced <1 rod's depth between each. I've tried coupling extra rods on in all 3 positions but I'm consistently hitting something 4" down so guessing that much be the chalk layer. Even tried an SDS adapter to hammer them in. The reading is better with 3 rods but it's messy! I have now a 600x600mm ex DNO copper earth plate here that I'm going to bury. Came from someone's farm where they had an 11kVA trannie on two poles and the DNO moved it/the poles leaving the plate in the ground with the wire cut off. Main question is should I bury it horizontal or vertical? Hopefully this weekend I'll get a hole dug and see exactly what I have ground wise.