Onoff

Back to the shade difference question... I've 16 tiles in this corner to lay something like this: Assuming all the boxes of tiles are the same shade reference / production run, then do I just use them as they come out of the box or do I pick "1 tile from each box" to account for up any shading differences? Or is this less of a problem nowadays? Cheers

Wago it so you or the future owner hasn't got to worry about the terminals loosening i.e a nod to maintenance free. Blanking plate on. Job done. If you're really worried type up an official looking label stating redundant socket position, on d'stairs ring, fed from etc. Even go so far as to put "for advice...contact number of...your sparks".

Assuming you'll need short lintel over that pipe.

I hadn't screwed it yet in that pic!

Getting a feel for this with the new Atlas/Norton diamond blade: Something I've noted is that the two halves of the fence are slightly off to one another. Needs the bolts loosening and adjusting against a straight edge. New blade doesn't sound any different to me really.

Is it quite high up? You often see them high so it was only a short reach to the immersion in the top of the tank.

Add some wooden slats in = airing cupboard!

The OSG suggests an airing cupboard in bathroom is outside the Zones just as a bathroom door makes the bathroom separate from the rest of the house. It suggests however if the airing cupboard opens into Zone 1 of 2 then any circuits supplying kit in the cupboard should have RCD protection. But this isn't an airing cupboard! Argue it's a very small room off the bathroom?

I should add that I only used 27mm insulated pb as anything more (plus tiles) would have encroached too much on the window frame. I also have no cavity closers to speak of. The cavities up the side of the window appear to have had a piece of expanding foam folded into a "V", wedged into the cavity and rendered over.

So the window reveal: 60mm cavity block wall that the wind howled up! 27mm insulated pb (Gyproc from Travis Perkins) cut to fit. Sides support the top: Foamed: Foam trimmed, mortar brought up level. Spray glue on the reveal and strips of DPM: DPM on all 4 faces: Go mad with Sikaflex EBT around the edges, low expansion foam in the middle: Bottom bit weighted down. Sikaflex bead against widow frame and pb pushes onto it: Top and sides wedged temporarily: Set: Small child bribed into marking the pb from the inside: Sorted: Edit: Note in some areas the centres are more than 400mm. Where the pir is a bit loose between studs I used expanding foam to fill any gaps.

I would love to have the money to burn to see how some of this cheap Chinese equipment stands up to an over voltage. Like my Quinetic receivers and Bluetooth modules. I have this conspiracy fear that as the Chinese take over our utilities one day an over voltage burns down thousands of UK homes!

Socket off, 3 of these, blanking plate, forget it.

Not a clue tbh! That's an internal wall there anyway. EDIT: Might be something to do with the bath side pocket...I'm not wading through over 2k photos to see why!

Just a pity they haven't got Wago terminals!

That big resistor; brown/brown/brown is it on the colour bands? If so then it's 2200 Ohms aka 2.2KOhms. C2, the electrolytic capacitor, is the top visibly domed?

Both.

So the reason one side chips more is that the blade isn't exactly perpendicular to the bed? As in one side of the cut's up and the other down?

No, just the free one.

What do you mean by "double battens"? Noggins are staggered as it makes it easier to screw them in. Yep 400 ctrs. Meant my pir was cut into nom 355mm wide strips. I drilled a pilot, 6mm from memory with a Bosch multi construction bit, thru the batten & into the wall. Says they're self drilling here: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h I never read that! What I did was make "stud walls" in the garden and reassemble in the bathroom. Push against the wall, pack and drill to suit. https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd

A battened wall: A concrete screw (Torx T30 bit I think). They don't always bite! I put mine in with either the 18V impact or 230V pistol drill You shim behind as required with plastic trouser shims, slivers of timber etc. Insulating between Be aware that 25mm pir might be anything from 23-28! I had 45mm battens so figured add a 5mm (brown) pack to give 50mm and my 50mm pir wouldn't project....well in places it did because it was thicker than 50mm! I think I put 5 fixings per batten with a minimum 5mm pack. I also foam gunned behind the batten in between the fixings /packs.

Grabbing this blade to see if any better: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p56654

You can get some good deals in Screwey's Clearance section from time to time, especially around new catalogue time. Only a couple in there at the mo though. Seems to be "odd" sizes like 45mm as opposed to 50mm that you get in there. I got all my st/st fixings like this for peanuts. Used them on the ply deck around the bath. You can type "clearance" in the Screwey's search bar. https://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-plus-pz-double-self-countersunk-woodscrews-4-5-x-30mm-200-pack/6883f

What type of wet tile cutter is considered "the best", radial arm like this where you bring the blade into the tile or table saw type? Can't help thinking the latter myself as it perhaps allows more control as you push the tile into the blade. You can also see the cut line better maybe? Cheers.

I've got a laser from an old jigsaw, I wonder if I could strap that to the tile cutter as a bit of a guide...

Test tiles are ceramic. Interesting how two "good" cut edges mate up: Whereas the not so good edges, these are the other halves of the first two above: And the actual floor tiles are also ceramic (cheap seats here). This corner's already chipped: