Onoff

Erm.....NO! Go for it if you want but I tried ordinary st/st wood screws and self drill "into metal" screws through Aqua Panel and they tore it to shreds and didn't countersink properly.

That's it, two coats of Diamond Matt later and it's done, finished. Get the lights, speakers, shower head and body dryer back in tonight, aka no need to revisit! Except... Somewhere in applying the top Diamond Matt coats I left this mark, excess paint I didn't roller out: It's about 6" long and only visible if I stand on the steps and hold an LED spotlight against the ceiling. This will never happen and tbh it's invisible from standing in the room / lying in the bath. Unlikely the room will ever be used with the lights off btw as it's on the dingy North face overshadowed by neighbouring trees. Tbh it'll be best naturally lit in Winter. Sand or leave well alone and get on with the tanking? (There's always Artex as a fall back! )

Don't forget the special Aqua Panel screws, they're not cheap!

I love them both. What I did not like was the freebie sample can of new Lemon Lime & Cucumber Sprite I got given the other day on London Bridge. It is f***ing foul!

Black upvc?

Nose bleeds??? What, was that a pressure thing? You didn't suffer from the bends if you left the house too quick then?

You're all approaching this from the wrong angle! https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/japanese-knotweed-trouble-just-eat-it-into-submission-s7nnjdk5x Horsetail too is edible if you get the right one.

I painted some brand new OSB3 with No Nonsense Wood Treatment after putting it on the kids playhouse roof. Unfelted but covered by a tarp since. Sure it softened the glue holding the OSB together as the edges have blown a bit. I'd honestly rather use marine ply than OSB on say the side of my dormer when I redo that. I know I'll be a lone voice on this!

You could use a water repellent like Thompsons Water Seal (theres a No Nonsense one too) but what you really need to do is treat the edges and use something to stop the edge delaminating, water getting in and so on. Cheaper plys have holes and gaps along the edges. I don't think the "waterseal" types would do it. Maybe Waterseal the faces and black bitumen paint (or even cheap gloss?) the edges? How many to do? On show as a feature? Maybe something like Sadolin if only one or two and do all faces and edges. I have a feeling cheaper, non WBP plys might come apart anyway through temperature extremes aside from water ingress.

OK, so I'm done with the plastering and onto the painting. What have I learnt? 1) It's not as easy as it looks! 2) It's knackering. I've got pretty good arm and upper body strength but this takes muscle memory too. Respect to real spreads! 3) Cream of tartar is your friend as a newbie. 1tsp per bag of multi or two in hot weather. It really gives you extra working time. On a controversial note you CAN bring back to life plaster that's going off by adding a sachet of the stuff and done more water. 4) Again controversial, you don't have to pay top dollar on tools. I used an 18" st/st one, a 14" steel one both from Wickes. Then a 6" Ragni one. Aluminium float was from Wickes. Both big trowels well used on all sorts before I cleaned them up with 80 grit paper and the finish was great. Where it wasn't was down to the technique not the tools. 5) That guy's videos I linked were invaluable 6) However.....You think you've done a good job then you start looking! My issue was mainly having left some low bits. I think that's down to not having pressed hard enough in the later stages of flatting off. My edge technique needs work too but in this case 3 out of 4 walls will be tiled to the ceiling so I'll lose a bit there. Would I do another ceiling / wall? Yep, in a heartbeat.

Money no object you could perhaps retrofit the "photochromic" glass as one person has done on here already. Not sure that's the right word but they will darken at the touch of a button and are linked to light level / temperature sensors. £Ks per sq. metre I believe though.

Just makes me realise how good mine is now by comparison, considering its a DIY job. Did you pay someone to do that? Edit: If you were nearer you'd be welcome to this virtually full bag of EasiFill 20 I have. I couldn't live with that. Not in the bedroom is it, the missus will be constantly picking up on it!

Diamond tomorrow night!

WTF? Just finishing the second two mist coats and it looks lovely. SWMBO wanders in... S: "Looks great, is that the top coat?" Onoff: "No" S: "Top coat next?" Onoff: "Yes" Wait for it... S: "I don't mind matt on the ceiling!" ??? Then! S: "But I want gloss on the wall!" Onoff: "You can't have gloss on the wall it'll look crap, get proper bathroom paint!" S: "That's what I meant" ???

That's what I do sort of but without the extra gun, have two cans of cleaner on the go. Especially handy when changing cans. Use the one with the red widget on to blast around where the new can screws on and the one without the widget to screw on and blast thru the gun if cleaning out.

Some classy ladies on this forum. And there was I concerned we'd bring them down to our level!

Decided to mist it again as soon as I'm home...after running my fingers across it and maybe some more light sanding... I hate painting almost as much as football tbh. Diamond coat will go on tomorrow night as SWMBO's off out with the youngest.

Last time I'll ask...I promise! Time's not an issue, should I go over the rubbed down bare plaster & EasiFilled areas with Leytex?

Just ordered a 2" one from Screweys...before I read this! It'll do.

Drop of mastic on it. Oh, and save them off of the empty cans!

I like to think she took a while to choose me but got the perfect result! When rollering, using a 9" roller, then the roller diameter is obviously greater than 20mm, probably about 60mm. I'm thinking how do you stop paint on the END of the roller transferring to the wall? Or is it that you aim to not roller that near to the wall?

Tbh @lizzie I would never even have thought of a hat! Means borrowing SWMBO's sewing machine of course! And then there's a style to choose, material to cut etc! It'll be a bit of rag over my head if anything. All my hats are black and it'll ruin them. @PeterW, I hear what you're saying about just get the Diamond on but I've rubbed down to the plaster in places. Also put on some EasiFill in two bigger areas. Can't help thinking another coat of Leytex would seal the what are surely still "new" plaster areas showing through from sanding and over the EasiFill areas which are currently "unprimed"? Some pics might help: The worst area was above the door where you come in. Not de-dusted or wiped in this photo. It feels better than it looks! Tbh it'd take a bit more sanding where I've over done the EasiFill Then above the half wall for which SWMBO IS currently perusing colour charts. Do I low tack masking tape along the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling? Also will the tape take off the Leytex?

Fine morning's work there mate!

@DrawCAD, what CAD package do you use?

The plastering looks good now I think. After the EasiFill 20, which sands down a dream it's really smooth and I've given up running my fingers over it. It now just feels "right" to stop and paint.