Onoff

Penetrating stain? https://www.adsealcolours.co.uk/Smart-Colour-Stain.html?

Just a few fiddly ones done: Some bottoms: Some rips along the top: And all 3 pocket shelves cut to give a nom. 1mm gap front and back: Top Tip: A strip of plastic really helps for taking them in/out when fettling to fit:

VERY carefully! The less you put on now, near level as you can, the less sanding / mess. Aim for as smooth a level as you can with the wide filling knife for as little sanding as possible.

Wally! It's meant to prevent cracking (says the man who forgot to put fibres in his bathroom floor concrete). The theory is you have a number of different substrates; the "brick" wall, the timber studs, the pb. They all expand & contract minutely to different degrees. The tape holds the pb together to stop that join where they meet opening up as the timber etc moves underneath. The tape should be stuck to the paper face of the pb. I'd be inclined to not tape now and just be prepared to using a flexible decorating filler later if it cracks later and repaint locally. Others may have a different view!

His SWMBO is set on wall mounted!

Its something I need to think about at some stage as I'll need to do a 3rd wall mount wc sometime (& maybe another two here also) and I'm buggered if I'm paying full price for a Geberit frame! Maybe I'll just buy the Geberit cistern and make the frame. Anyway, I'm literally off to mix up right now and do some more tiling in mine. Pics to follow!

Permission? Likely not! He's just managed to puncture the incoming mains water when trying to fix a squeaky upstairs floor board. Did the same about 10 years back! Lucky he's the ground floor & basement tenant and the neighbours are upstairs. Reckons the landlord would redo the bathroom just to a very basic level with "6"x6" plain white tiles" in his words. He's just redone the ground floor laminate wood floor himself. Back to the budget wc frame and drawing on what others here have done: Simply thinking a 4"x2" half height (or less) frame screwed to the floor boards and existing wall. Removeable top shelf to access the cistern. Hell, at <£20 buy two cisterns. So the cistern just bolts to the wall. What drew me to the ones above was that you can buy it branded as Hudson Reed and as a few of us in here know it's generally good stuff, certainly on the shower mixer etc front. He's spotted a new, unused, wall hung pan and seat for £35. Back to the frame then I've got my spare UP200 frame here to copy from. I reckon with a bit of forethought I could even do away with the adjustable height legs if I knew the new pan dimensions and existing poo pipe heights. Or just allow for 5mm of steel packs. Tbh he'll have gone out and bought a cheapo set by the time I get around to this but it keeps the grey matter ticking over!

Tight arse mate in a rented place wants a wall mount, concealed cistern wc like mine but wants to pay peanuts! I tell him Geberit and he tells me he's found a no name frame and pan for around £120! Exit pipe is horizontally straight through the wall. Just thinking out loud here... Concealed cistern, 5 year guarantee for <£20: https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/77484.htm? At first glance, no name etc so what's the point? Then there's this Hudson Reed cistern, again <£20 with a 5 year g'tee. Surely the same model? I reckon then I can copy a Geberit frame with the 2" box I've lying around: A goer?

Paint it with some yoghurt? A neighbour years back had an extension built and the new roof tiles really stood out against the old. He spread manure over both sets of tiles!

I'm really no help but when down find a bit of me time in a warm, dark room in a comfy chair, listening to a choon helps recharge me. This seemed apt:

Gyproc Thermaline 27mm from Travis Perkins.

How about 27mm insulated pb if you've only got about 30mm? It's precisely because of minute draughts I decided to line my reveal with a vcl. I stuck the 27mm stuff to the vcl (blue dpc) with a mixture of Sikaflex EBT and foam: No pinpoint draughts as such now other than the big cold bridge which is the 2G window!

No, it's different. I seem to have got somewhere with it tonight. Cleaned but not yet greased. Not sure how the the triangle bit functions or if it's working right until I refit. Wondering what to re grease with, EP2, silicon grease etc? Short video, de-gummed:

Anyone know the model number of this old Yale night latch? Or where I might get one. Dates from the early 90s. Cheers

Adds weight to their guarantee. Still, look on the brightside, at least you haven't spent out too much in time and money...

Another "with hindsight" moment! Should have tiled with a full tile central to the window!

A bucket of dirt with a rod banged in makes a convenient portable earth point...

I could have, should have, would have put the soil pipe inside when I had the chance! The original soil even went under the footings but I capped it off. Idiot boy!

Bedec been paint? Reassuringly expensive...

CCTV...

I suppose I could carefully file the front edge of the tile so I get a neat 1mm gap... These sharpening stones that @Nickfromwales put me onto have been brilliant but I could do with a new set now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Piece-Diamond-Knife-Tools-Sharpening-Stone-Set-Fine-Extra-Fine-Coarse-Grade/311816827397 Need something in between them and the super coarse one I've got:

A thread a little while back veered into pop up socket territory: CPC were cheapest and slimmest but that was for a particularly slim gap and had 230V sockets only not USB. Some links above in there also to very low profile, USB only worktop sockets, barely more than little brushed discs! I think @nod, with a well finished nice spec kitchen it cries out for S-BOX! https://www.the-sbox.com/s-box-power/2-port-socket-twin-usb/ Not that I want to see anyone try and cut a rectangular hole in granite ...personally I'd never sleep for fear of cracks emanating from the corners of the hole!

I was going to use this, silver grey one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-mapesil-ac-111-solvent-free-silicone-silver-grey-310ml/93192? Assuming I ram white grout in the 1mm gap first are you saying that CT1 is harder to apply than normal silicone? Also that it will maybe stain the white grout? Cheers

How thick a bead are we talking about here btw?

Boll@cks...