Onoff

Fingerprints? DNA? Know any friendly coppers? ?

...and hope they don't read this!

Spend the the money on hand writing analysis to track 'em down!

I used screed rails in a small room to get 100mm of wet concrete dead flat as a finished floor, ready to tile straight on to and it was too. Doorway was trickier and I had to do that by hand. On a big open floor I guess power float? The liquid epoxy screeds I've seen used on here have to be the flatest I've seen.

That's what I was aiming at!

Please don't compare my thread to years of rambling indecision!

Far East? https://m.alibaba.com/trade/search?SearchText=3"+ball+bearing+hinge

Another valve, off of a tee after the exising makes sense I think. Means I can shut down the bathroom basin cold without affecting the kettle supply in the kitchen...

With downstairs looking like this: There's still a bit to be done in the loft. More "with hindsight" moments at every turn! Tonight's fun getting mains cold to the basin! These are the pipes going down to the basin and bath: I've cleaned and fluxed the Yorkshire elbow closest to the camera but yet to solder it. First could have done that better moment: I was impressed by the way the 15mm pipe clips clipped together. Never gave a thought as to how I might insulate them and this in a section of hip end that's totally uninsulated. (Yes I bent all the pipes in one go). The middle pipe is the mains cold. It runs down from the bottom of the picture... ...and at the mo a scrap bit of pipe is just abutting the concrete padstone: The Pegler valve is on the incoming mains. It runs to the tee I'm pointing to. The bottom of the tee feeds the new Geberit wall hung wc in the bathroom downstairs. Out the top of the tee, where the pipe cranks, it goes up the side of the dormer then across the ceiling of the dormer to feed the kitchen the other side of the house. I need now to crank that bit of pipe touching the padstone and bring into the tee I'm holding. I don't want to upset the existing tee soldering for a start. Thinking maybe I move the Pegler valve back and put the tee in there. Should I put another, separate, valve in the run to the sink mains? Then again should I change the Yorkshire tee to a compression. I say this as "later" I might want to feed the upstairs en suite with mains for the wc and basin. Thanks for looking.

Pants. Don't bother. Imo you'd be better with a cheapie cross line. Maybe a Cocraft from Class Olson.

Will do: That might cause me problems as it'll push the flexible hoses tighter against the pedestal, that extra 1/2" might be an issue...

That's my plan. Cheers. EDIT: The only downside is once I take that valve off the olive will have to be reused as I can't push the nut back far enough to get the olive splitter on!

WD40 wiped carefully over the body is one I've read or Jeyes Fluid put on with a modelers brush. Mr Sheen another. Found this comment that seems to have merit: "Any of the pyrethrin chemicals will provide protection. Believe it or not it's made from chrysanthemum flowers, several solid block fly killers (look like air fresheners but solid yellow block inside them) contain it. cut a small strip of it and tie wrap it to the camera body, that should keep the insects at bay. Regards Bellman" Maybe try a few different techniques and see which works best.

Normal ones by the look of it, not flat faced. Should I be worried? They seem to be holding at the mo, saying that I've only got the hot from the cylinder connected. Might be a different story when I put the cold on mains. I could whip them off and turn the face down flat in the lathe? Cheers.

Have you tried land registry as to who owns the lane? Can you show 20 years continuous use by people other than the elusive landowner? Any use? https://www.co-oplegalservices.co.uk/media-centre/articles-jan-apr-2017/access-rights-when-buying-property/

You can always dip the connections in silicone grease. Spiderex is supposed to work but I don't like the idea of killing spiders so up to you.

Good question...I'll whip the cold off as that's not yet connected in the loft. I remember something about this now you mention it.....

Filament etc bargains for anyone? https://cpc.farnell.com/education-maker-hobbyist-electronics-bargain?

I some very observant Jewish households have maybe 4 kitchen "areas".

What's the score with a kosher kitchen then if in separate rooms?

If you think you might be planning a future garage, summer house, home office, (hot tub?) etc then worth thinking about cable ducts to go out under the slab if your cu is in a plant room within the house. Ditto ducting if your planning hardwired CAT, CCTV etc to a remote building. Similarly if you're planning an ASHP then ducts in for the pipework and power, insulated ducts in the case of the ASHP possibly or big enough to take pre insulated pipes.

Just looking a bit deeper into the Hudson Reed guarantee and it would appear to be 12 months on serviceable parts / those subject to normal wear and tear. I have a feeling the long term guarantees are on the finishes only. guarantees-policy.pdf

20 year g'tee with Hudson Reed... https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/about-us

Not by SWMBO anyway!

Lidl's Miomare range? I SO wanted a Vado Summit...but SWMBO didn't!