Onoff

I'd use a 24mm flat bit rather than 25mm next time: The Screwfix handle came with a couple of through fixings that I fitted top and bottom and cleared the magnetic latch. The other two fixings to the L & R are just nasty little wood screws into the paper mache that is this cheapo door. For the, again Screwfix, privacy latch though there's no through bolts just 4 naff wood screws either side.

I did debate making my own doors. Still might. I made a hinge jig...

Yes exactly that.

Love the sofa...SWMBO doesn't. I can see that in a man cave...

Do you refer to the West Wing etc?

I might go for 1mm as hoping they won't be on there for too long before I "go oak". I've that RD book and the Collins one of the same era. Still very valid stuff.

I did wonder about say a 1mm packer between the stop and door stile but didn't want things "loose".

Figured these various questions I've been raising on doors, hinges etc stand alone... I'm aware there's a correct method for painting a panelled door. I'll be delving into my 30 year old Readers Digest DIY book for that. When painting door and frame, do you fit the side and top stop pieces to the jams first or after painting the door? Bit different for the majority here with oiled doors but I'm thinking thickness of primer and paint. Cheers

Why me??? ? Not got a clue ref the wall. When/if I come to do my garden room I'll be on here asking questions galore. What I do know... I "recently" refurbed my bathroom. Two existing brick cavity walls and two solid brick walls. I lined it with timber stud walls much as you have in your kitchen. I filled in between the battens with pir. Vcl over that then plasterboard and tiles. I really paid attention to gaps, foaming and taping etc. Everybody remarks how super quiet it is in the bathroom now. In effect this is a TF construction with a "block" outer. I'm guessing here but just maybe you could build the TF to full height, get the roof on to get it watertight and do the outer skin afterwards? If you are intent on working from home like this then doing it outside you'll likely get continued complaints. Why can't you rig the circular and chop saw to a vac btw? I have loads of times.

What he's saying is putting channel against the wall and it's 1/2" out in the centre. Almost needs a bow shaped, v.long packer. I'm thinking on the lines of screw the channel to the wall with the gap, packed out at the fixing points with st/st penny washers. Then affix some white pvc anlge either side stuck on with CT1. Trim the angle plumb to the channel.

Right, mate's made a faux pas. (Yes, my mate, not me! ) When he's come to fit his shower screen he's tiled the wall and it bows inward roughly like the sketch below. He reckons it touches at the top and bottom but there's "a gap he can put his finger in" so guess about 1/2". Searched solutions suggest ripping tiles off and starting again or cutting a groove in the tiles for the shower screen channel to sit in neither of which he fancies doing. The frame I think allows for the wall to be 6mm out...he's way off! Any other suggestions? @Nickfromwales? Cheers

ALL different. Trying as I remodel each room to try and standardise things like this along with raising/lowering socket & switch heights. Not helped by 4, was 5 different floor heights throughout.

But that's a curry, KFC AND McD's! Everytime I mention her penchant for such or mention how much we could save, I get: "We only have it once a week!" "It's my one treat!" "It's not often!" etc Just gone we had curry Friday, fish & chips Sat and KFC Sunday. Getting a bit off track here with my marital woes!

@zoothorn, what do you do for dust extraction? I route outside and that makes enough mess! Also if you route MDF doesn't that have health implications worse than if you're routing real wood? One day when I've a decent internal workspace I'll rig up the giant, 110V shop extractor I've got. (I've only ever used it for wall chasing up until now).

Especially when SWMBO here will happily spend that on takeaways per week Let's not forget I've to paint the effing things yet. I wanted this style:

Thanks. Your 2nd picture gives centre to centre at about 3.5". Oddly enough mine will come out the same. Decided to move the handle centre to the top of the lock bar (970mm from floor) and the privacy to dead centre of the lock bar.

Deejay Maverick as a name?

So @ProDave reckons his handle to privacy lock centres are 55mm as dictated by the lockset. As my handle and privacy catch are separate it's up to me. He's got proper doors whereas mine are cheap crap. Thinking I should space the two elements out more? Handle at 940mm, privacy at 825 gives me 115mm centres 45mm between escutcheons: Too wide apart still?

Ta.

Would you mind please, measuring the centre of the handle to centre of the privacy latch. Cheers

I don't get this...is it 54 or 60mm backset???

These doors are temporary whilst I dig up the room next door. Nice oak ones eventually!

Further constricted by the el cheapo door construction that only gives a 360mm length of anything solid to fit the lock set. I guess though that's ample for whatever height they need to go.

Is there a recommended height for door handles? Some BS EN or Part M thing? Got to fit this magnetic catch to the bathroom door along with the privacy latch which I assume goes below. Guessing there's some standard that puts everything relative to the lock rail? In my case the magnetic and privacy units are separate so to some extent I'm governed by the need to space them so the escutcheons don't clash. Cheers

Ideally you need them in a range of sizes. Smaller ones fit in tighter spaces: