Onoff

How is the transmitter turned on exactly? Just out of interest. As in how is the TX module switched on? (My adventures in RF stopped at making 2 transistor bugs and and the odd SW receiver etc).

Chap here uses the same chipset as your link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Decoding-and-sending-433MHz-RF-codes-with-Arduino-/

I've a busted one of these you could maybe hack? Just the LCD screen busted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SIEMENS-RDH10RF-Digital-Room-STAT/dp/B00BJ72OIO

ESR might do a kit/module? https://www.esr.co.uk/

I just recently managed to resurrect one. Probably on my 4th.

@Nickfromwales will probably be along shortly advocating aluminium spreaders.

@ProDave has done it successfully on the 1st floor I think using a biscuit mix.

Like I say I'd leave it a week. Concrete will be set to walk on etc after 48hrs but reaches about 70% of its strength after 7 days.

I'd leave it a week personally before taking the studs off. Upturned wheel barrow, bucket with a brick on top etc for now. Edit: Or a temporary brick "cairn" is it? Seems apt! ?

Can't beat homemade! Does it work? Hell yes!

I suppose the Evolution chop saw with it's ability to cut multi materials is one. Albeit a Jack of all trades.

Kitchenaid Artisan?

The laser level is great for the money. My chippy mate saw mine and bought one. Honestly is alright. Easiest way ref a drainage channel would be to have tapped in a bit of 2"x2", 600mm long across the centre of the plinth, at a sloping angle, whilst still wet. Leave in there and pull out when it's going off. BUT...being anal, a square sided channel can get water in and freeze up, expand and crack thd concrete. A bit of round waste pipe would give a dished channel. Not necessary imo here. Too late anyway. However, I wouldn't worry about a drainage channel. Mud, leaves and crud will soon build up around where plinths are. Just once a year clear it off in the Summer and apply liberal coats of Creocote or similar to the wooden ends. You could paint the top of the plinth with black bituminous paint if you wanted. (We lead cap plinths at work - loadsa money! ) Concrete will slump a little often. Live with it. (With super heavy loads on crane plinths at work (up to 80 tonnes) we use special disc spring washers on threaded studs in the tops of the plinths that can be loaded along their axis to take up slump). THIS IS STILL A SHED, DON'T SWEAT IT! ? As to the tape thing: Set the laser up with a horizontal beam that spans across all the plinths. Put the end of the tape on the plinth top and pull the tape out vertically. The laser line will intersect the tape. Write down that measurement and repeat for the other plinths. You can work out by simple addition/subtraction the levels relative to one another.

+1 Along with the multi tool and Bladerunner.

Ref getting things dead level then you could do worse than investing in one of these: https://m.clasohlson.com/uk/Cocraft-HL10-S-Cross-Line-Laser-Level/40-9996 Just set up late afternoon/dusk and put a tape measure on each plinth. A fiver delivery unless you can get the order over £35. I used my Cocraft one from here to do my bathroom.

That low plinth...you might want to trim the plastic former level at least so water doesn't sit in there and hasten the rotting of the big timber beam that'll sit there. How level are these plinths? I reckon a bit of rocking will drive YOU nuts! Might be better just to thin the end of that particular beam down a fraction rather than faff with packing. Can't wait to see the base frame!

As long as the rain isn't that heavy that its washing the concrete out...I'd cover just to be sure. Upturned wheelbarrow over one. Lay two sticks over the other, bit of tarp weighted with a couple of bricks.

24x36 is that AOh oh oh oh.....?

Looking even more likely to be a scam! https://www.scamdoc.com/view/38106

Remember @Nickfromwales sage advice! Working with solvent weld you only get one chance so assemble sections dry and mark adjacent parts with Sharpie alignment marks. Do the same for depth i.e how far they'll push in. Then, when you apply your solvent it's just push and twist to the alignment mark.

I reckon it'll be alright as long as they're not too large, you add them as you pour and that the top layer is just concrete a few inches thick.

You WILL want one in the future. Something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-BLACK-PU-WHEELBARROW-WHEEL-PUNCTURE-PROOF-SOLID-3-50-3-00-8-1-bore-UK/323891938308?

What size tyre, look on the side wall, cheaper than £30 if we shop around. And overall dia of wheel if you can.

Erm...if UV light makes it go brittle...and it won't see any...ergo it won't go brittle. Does say "prolonged exposure to sunlight will degrade the product"on the Capital Valley Plastics site.

Go buy a puncture proof wheel / tyre. What size tyre is it, it'll say on the side?