Onoff

Just tried this myself asking it for a supporting document ref bringing our dormers forward and changing from hip to gable ends. Needs some tweaks but really impressed.

I used the blue ones and looked like a Smurf afterwards.

Bfo ratchet strap(s).

The screws will come with one of the correct driving bits.

You can make your own: https://www.canada.ca/en/conservation-institute/services/conservation-preservation-publications/canadian-conservation-institute-notes/tannic-acid-rusted-iron-artifacts.html

I'd paint it with phosphoric acid. 24 & 48% solutions readily available as descaler. https://www.redlabelabrasives.com/blogs/news/mill-scale-what-it-is-how-to-remove-it#:~:text=Phosphoric Acid Treatments%3A Unlike the,provides some resistance to rust.

NanoCAD 5.0 has a free version that's pretty good.

First thing check your LA's site. Then find one of his mates who'll know what the crack is locally. Preferably a practising, scheme member sparks. Some are happy for you to do all the hard graft, chasing cables and back boxes in then they'll make the final connections. Some will just come in chasing the £ and give you a cert with only a cursory inspection.

This is why SDC employed external scheme members to act as council inspectors for electrical work. They didn't have the in house expertise. There were major ructions when Part P came in. Officious inspectors, used to measuring footings with a yard stick inspecting electrical work. Folk having a small extension and the inspector insisting the extension along with all the house sockets and switches be put at the new heights & that it was "the law".

What some (most?) sparks baulk at with "signing off" other people's work is they generally won't have a clue as to your FiL's competency. Has he run the cables you can't see properly, are they of the right current carrying capacity throughout, has he tested properly or even fudged the written results. Are his terminations done properly etc. It's to do with 3rd party liability. They can do an EICR but an Electrical Installation Certificate can be a different matter. However as money talks I guarantee you'll find somebody who'll sign it off. I'd be surprised if he hasn't got a mate still in the trade who knows his work and is a scheme member. Some people take that route 😉

I had two 3Ah clones (Floureon make?) back when clone batteries were first a thing and they were spot on. Lasted for years. One still going I think. Bought two 5Ah clones from elsewhere and they died inside a month with no comeback on the waste of space eBay seller. Genuine all the way now. I print Lidl to Makita battery adapters and vice versa.

You need to talk to your particular LA / look on their website. It does vary in how they do things. If your FiL is not a member of a competent persons scheme you will still likely end up paying the full fee. Even if he is qualified and competent as in has the necessary training, qualifications and experience he needs to be in one of the schemes to make it plain sailing. In my case they would accept my electrical qualifications, even then my Part P qualification, my schedules of tests etc. Still wanted to send out someone they sub electrical inspections out to. The fee would have been the same as if I'd had none of the above. They did not, at the time have their own in house electrically qualified building inspectors. Thus they subbed to the council's favoured leccy contractor and gave them a building inspector's badge for the day. I have a long email from them on it somewhere from the then head of building control who I knew from a previous life. My LA's fee page, see D19: https://www.sevenoaks.gov.uk/info/20069135/building_control/439/building_control_fees/4

Good idea that Aerogel 👍

BiL just had a fake 5Ah one go bang in the, again fake Makita charger. He was out and had left it charging on the carpeted stairs landing. Came in to the smell of burnt plastic etc. It had spewed out solder and molten plastic over the carpet but luckily hadn't caught fire. Just had the modern, presumably fireproof carpet fitted.

+1. Go battery and save the petrol for cars.

Mine: https://www.howetools.co.uk/makita-dur368az-twin-18v-brush-cutter

Makita 36V here. Well pleased.

"Roller wave" possible. Caused when it's floated.

Looks in better nick than either of mine!

BS, the neighbour just happened to be filming, yeah right.

The plus points stack up for good old black bitumen paint. Cheap, it'll fill pin holes and round the roofing screws. Easily to reapply too. On rusty steel it also has a protective effect as the oil seeps out. Probably the best chance of sticking if there's remnants of paint on there. You can get a white bitumen. A flexible acrylic like Acrypol, Chromapol, Evercryl etc is sort of made for the job but expensive. Easy to reapply but I'd worry about rust carrying on under the paint. Whatever I'd jet wash first. If you can, get the worst rust off and paint with a phosphoric acid solution before painting. It'll turn the rust to a stable black/grey. As in iron oxide to iron phosphate like Jenolite rust converter.

A strip of Aerogel insulation perhaps?

You're too kind. Up close you could hang your coat on the walls. Boy did I learn a lot doing it though.

I cast my floor to falls in the wet room corner and it's stayed perfect. Took some working out along with the Geberit wall drain. I'd do it again in a heartbeat but next time use a tile levelling system.

If you do floor first then the wall tiles come down onto them. A much better detail in terms of waterproofing and no horrible grout line at the edge where the floor and wall meet.