Onoff

So if they're not paying rent & you can't pay the mortgage or evict them, what happens?

So grout coloured?

Double check he hasn't put a ring neutral in a lighting circuit RCBO and vice versa.

Traditional light switch wiring in new colours: Then you've intermediate switch wiring and loop at switch wiring where there's a neutral block in the back box. https://flameport.com/electric/lighting_circuits/lighting_loop_at_switch.cs4

I think you'll find some of what you think are neutrals are in fact black, switched lives (that should have red sleeving on them). Only old book I could find with light switches in the old colours:

https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howrcdswork.html#howork

So on that board you have the orange surge protector, aka SPD on the far right. Then the double pole isolator. To the left is an MCB that is there likely just for the SPD. To the left of that a line of RCBOs. Inside it'll look something like this. Each RCBO should feed a separate circuit. Generally the twin and earth cable comes in at the top on each RCBO. Neutral on the left, line (live) on the right. In the case of a ring main you'll have two neutrals on the left, two lives on the right (sometimes 3 in each) There is just one neutral bar. Each RCBO has a blue fly lead that goes to the neutral bar. All the earths (aka CPCs) go to the earth bar. Check as aforementioned the neutrals on top are in the correct RCBO.

They are RCBOs, a combination of an MCB and RCD.

Guessing maybe you have a new board something like this? On the far right is the double pole isolator switch. Next is an RCD that provides earth leakage protection fed from the 3 MCBs next to it. Further to the left another RCD protecting 2 MCBs / circuits. See the three neutral bars at the top? There should be no links between them. Furthermore, the incoming circuit cabling: If you have two circuits fed from the two MCBs on the left, the circuits neutral wires should go to the far left neutral bar. Anything fed from the 3 MCBs, then those circuits neutral wires should go to the central neutral bar.

The "electrician" should have carried out initial verification works and a series of tests before fitting a new board. There should then be a Schedule Of Tests recording this. Adding any RCD or RCBO to existing faulty circuits make this sort of tripping likely. An old circuit without such protection can work for years with faults that don't manifest themselves until said devices are installed. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.3.2.htm

First tub above had 4, no hope, pecked to bits butternut squash plants in. Now: I'll be after some woman's tights soon.

Old tyred car wheel, 20L water treatment chemical containers etc: Water

It's up there with spherical chickens in a vacuum! 👊

Was this a chat up line you used on the stem gerds at uni?

Well 110V tools are 55V centre tapped to earth... Isn't a case of if you get a belt you're only likely to take something like 25% of the "amps" you would with a 230V tool? I've had a 110V belt in my sweaty armpit (shirt off, all Poldark etc). Leant over a machine where the case was live. That wasn't centre tapped to earth but a very ancient control voltage. Not funny. The clever people will know.

It's why transmission lines run at up to 400kV.

A couple of Barbie's, artfully arranged would get tongues wagging.

CT1.

Is the peg board for hanging tools?

Temporary phone case printed in black TPU "rubber":

My lad came up with this Pokemon themed 35mm film holder for his mate. Embedded neodymium magnets in each face. First attempt. You can see the magnets through the layers on the red half: Same mate he made the Deus Ex B3 Wingman (toy gun from a game) for. They're both 25 FFS! Then this, a Dewalt to Ryobi battery adapter in green PETG:

Just seen the edited/revised pics. You'll need to keep the French drain as I see the slab is level with the surrounding ground. Then paint the bottom two boards in something, say black bituminous paint.

Make the base smaller I would. It's a problem that will never, ever go away. Somebody handy with a bfo Stihl con saw. Then flash behind the bottom timber and down over the concrete. Any timber near the ground should be no closer than 150mm (the height an average raindrop bounces). A forever problem otherwise.