Onoff

You could cut a through housing into the post (with your router) to go over the projecting board or nibble a bit out of the board to go around the post.

Are the joints noisy then? Look carefully. If it's been repainted they might have filled up the grease nipple hole with paint. Could just be a phosphor bronze bush designed to not need any lube. It's not as if its high revving. Most of the pivots don't even go thru 360deg. Have you called that contact I gave you yet?

Absolutely loving the gabion columns. The filled with logs idea, cracking. Money no object I'd have an arched gabion made up from galvanised walkway. Think Stargate...(with rats ? ) I might enquire of my fabricator just how much he'd charge for some plain rectangular columns that could be log filled.

Soudal low exp will fix boards to that as long as you hold the boards in place with something. Blocks, bags of sand etc. gas bottle whatever.

Position your boards. Place a sacrificial lump of timber on top and welt with a club hammer over where the hanger is. Flip over and route out a bit where the indent is of the joist hanger. Simples.

Yes you can save on them now only to see them rot and replace them later! I'm always amazed how when you pull a "Screwfix Gold Screw" out of external timber after not too long it's as rusty as. However...why not just use what you've got and remember to replace later on when you've a few more quid.

...in Brighton...

So if you do your decking boards parallel to the stream you'll have no end support closest to the camera?

I know just figured more landlords here. Tbh I wish we'd just sell them and be done with it. SWMBO on about buying another ffs. Make fa from these two.

2018. He did the original Electrical Installation Certificate for the new cu back in 2013. Seems madness he can't now do the EICR again without a new bit of paper.

Just the oddity that in this case the tenancy has ended and gone onto a periodic even though it's the same tenant. This as I undersatnd it is considered a new tenancy albeit with the same tenant. I can't even get my tame NAPIT mate to do the EICR now as he's peed off with the whole requirement he has a specific EICR ticket now and refusing to pay the £600 p/a fee it'll now cost him. Even though he has his 2391 etc. He's busy enough with commercial stuff anyway.

@Ferdinand, @pocster I've a long term tenant in a property who should have moved out by now into social housing but it keeps getting delayed due to this Covid thing. I'm aware that any new tenancy from 1st July 2020 this year requires an EICR. The property in question had an EICR within the last 5 years. However, my existing tenant has in effect gone onto a statutory periodic tenancy as I see it, the fixed term having expired. I really don't want to be having an EICR done now then in 2 or 3 months time when they move out, another one done for the new tenant. Thoughts please! This from some random landlord blog:

SWMBO wants something similar!

Cumbernauld: https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/timber-sheet-materials/fencing/fence-posts/view-product/150mm-x-150mm-x-3m-green-treated-sawn-timber-diamand-top-4-way-spray

Do these have a branch near you? https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/timber-sheet-materials/fencing/fence-posts/view-product/150mm-x-150mm-x-3m-green-treated-sawn-timber-diamand-top-4-way-spray

Isn't the sheath UV proof too?

I'd run regular, duct rated Cat-5 in a separate duct first. If there's issues it's easy to pull through new screened stuff bought by the metre.

It's all about "harmful mutual effects". For "telecoms" Band 1 circuits nominal separation distance between it and Band 2 (230VAC) is 50mm for internal & external wiring. On the basis you don't want induced mains on a piece of kit someone might be holding etc. Below 50mm a "non conducting divider" should be inserted between the cables. Aka put a small duct inside a big duct.

There's many ways to skin this cat. Very likely, in the right hands the beads you already have will be fine. Let's face it, even if you get metal edged tape you'll still be asking a bunch of questions. I've uses expanded metal corners, plastic and tape. It's you not the product. Some filling will be required. The fact you think aka have openly admitted you think the tool you have is too flexy or whatever...how is anybody supposed to magic it into the right tool?

Metal corner tape maybe? https://www.toolstation.com/plasterboard-corner-tape/p10867?

Good you're getting back on track. (I remember exotic holidays on the IoW...)

I've seen this advertised as the solution to a poor condition roof with slipping tiles, slates etc. Thinking it might make it a pig of a job if you do ever decide to replace the roof covering (if its all stuck together).

That's the Mak2Fer adapter done and ready to test print!I've really dumbed this down to 2 parts. There's no spring operated release button to take the adapter off of the Ferrex tool as I'll never be buying Ferrex batteries as Makita is my chosen platform. The adapter will stay on the tool forever. It's a case of slide on the adapter and drop in the "wedge". I'll likely keep that in place with a drop of silicone so the adapter could be removed later if needs be. Or I might do the copper battery tabs to they hold the wedge in place. Just got to wait for my printer to wake up!

100x100x6 here. Only 'cos it was FREE!

Copper panel pins ideally as they don't rust and show through. Guess ordinary ones would be ok with a dab of paint on the heads. Use a couple of blue 3mm packs under a straight edge to get the "3mm off" to start with. Basically push the bead, from the right, up to the packed straight edge and pin. Do in a few places. Use a long level to check plumb. Then put the packed straight edge on the right wall, push the bead up to from the left and pin. You can back the pinned bead up with smears of No Nails etc before finishing.