Onoff

I've decided! I'm going to char the pallet cladding on the cat tree house. It seems fitting as he is part Siamese.

Wish I'd used a levelling system...

This sort of thing. PVC, will pass the drop test etc: https://www.toolstation.com/pvc-conduit-pattress/p53404

A typical thread on the subject, the "a lot of companies" comment echos what I said. If you want comfort and can afford it long term then UFH with limited insulation may be for you. If saving energy/the planet then maybe not. There's some pics on the forum somewhere of @oranjeboom when his whole house floor got dug out. Not so much in his blog here: I've only dug down and built back up one room. Some pics of the digging and starting to build back up here:

It will work, it won't be efficient. If you're paying good money most companies will do whatever you want. Fit a heat pump in a totally unsuitable building, no problem etc. 99% of folk would feel warm underfoot and give the company rave reviews based on the feel good factor. Noting the extra expense will come later. Do all you can to mitigate heat losses elsewhere. On here @oranjeboom excavated his whole ground floor in his existing house then built back up with insulation and a new slab with UFH in.

25mm? You'll be heating worms. @Jeremy Harris on here had 300mm of eps under his floor slab. He calculated I think it was 8% of his total heat loss was through his floor with that much insulation. That's always stuck with me. If you're not fussed about cost it'll still feel nice underfoot, whatever.

When I build my pallet shed, I wonder what value I could end up with if I packed the pallet walls with straw? Might be best not to do the shou sugi ban charring with the cladding fitted..... (My nephews shed, not mine).

Do you have to char all faces & edges?

Do you have to do all faces & edges?

The story of the Three Little Pigs springs to mind!

No idea, sorry. I just get my lad to 3D print adapters. Item page says this: "Adaptor set is only compatible with 32mm threaded crush proof hose, common with domestic home vacuums and many fine dust extraction vacuums"

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cen-Tec-Systems-Extraction-Compatible-Milwaukee/dp/B084DGYSJW/ref=asc_df_B084DGYSJW/?

+1 for Bedec Barn Paint. 1 coat on softwood and it's "black". 3 coats and it's belt and braces. It just lasts and looks good.

JCB? 👍

What you really want is to live next to a lake... 😉

@Pocster Sound proofing a basement? Btw, how do you overcome cold bridging where the manacle rings are?

I couldn't as that joist above the door slopes in relation to the one I've screwed to aside from being higher. The photos don't do it justice how out everything is. Next I'll drop in some short noggins from above to sit on the plasterboard. From below I'll then wedge the pb level with the door frame, more "in line" than level. That will bend it slightly up making the gap I want to fill slightly less anyway. I'll go back in the loft and screw the noggins in place. Back down and screw the pb up. Finish the pb edge with a bit of 1/2" quadrant pinned on. I wish 🍻, had two coffees then just one pint when finished.

A little job up the pub. After a water leak above the ceiling, in front of the door to the loos it had really sagged. Even before that the door had always caught the ceiling. Yesterday I ripped the knackered ceiling down. Had to then take the door off and a cut a bit off the top to get clearance: A lot of the pipe lagging has gone over the years. Evidence of multiple repairs: Chucked some noggins in, there was just one bit of 4x2 mid span, laid flat. Hoovered all the timber and wood treated the timber as best as: Left like this for now: Thus a "plastering question". There is nothing supporting the edge of the flat board. I'm just going to pin a 1/2" quadrant beading along there and paint black to match the beams. The gap circled though, how to fill? Some sort of plaster, bonding, browning? Intent is to just blend / feather it in. Straight edges aren't critical up here by any means. If it looks "organic" it's no big deal.

It's horses for courses though to some degree. We don't know what the OP wants it for. Knocking up sheds or planters, cutting up pallet wood where you'll likely hit as staple or nail. I wouldn't want to be without my Evo saw. Cutting steel, bricks etc. It does it all to an acceptable degree for what I want.

I have an early, 255mm, Rage 3, sliding mitre saw. The nephews each have later model, 255mm ones that seem more accurate but I don't think it's a wear issue on mine. I think Evolution have improved the design. I don't have mine set up on a bench just grab it, manhandle to where I'm working, the car etc. I then need to set it up every time if I want an exactly square cut. I use one of these: OSALADI Carpentry Angle Ruler Industry Protractor Angle Miter Gauge Miter Angle Finder Metal Stencils Finder Measuring Ruler Goniometer Angle Finder Aluminum Alloy Work Carpenter Magnetic https://amzn.eu/d/fsI2C8O Useful as a periodic checker even if the saw is set up on a bench. It allows a fairly acceptable degree of repeatability for say mitre cuts. My mate has a big DeWalt sliding mitre saw, several hundred Pounds worth. The Evolution and DeWalt are streets apart. He'll do 6" skirting on his and it's perfect. By the same token his can't cut conduit, Unistrut or with a change to the Evo diamond blade, brick slips. Imo the Evo saw is nearer to a rough and ready shed/fence building saw than something a proper chippy would use for say cabinet making.

Evolution for general stuff is fine. The orange not green range. No use for cabinet making, through housings mind mind. Tbh I've never managed to use it successfully for skirting either.

https://youtu.be/9zugv1NdMj4?si=aGuohpMXU_3a48j_

https://renewableheatinghub.co.uk/forums/renewable-heating-air-source-heap-pumps-ashps/flushing-an-ashp-system-and-ufh-questions

Domestic I think calls for safety edges, flashing amber beacon, shouldn't impart more than 400N of force, photocells at two heights etc.

My brick pillars have a 4" box up the middle. The (sliding) gate loads go onto that, not the pillars. I put a buff coloured, silicone joint around the box section gate post so the loads don't transmit to the brick: