If you cut that flush it'll leave a hole with a potentially sharp edge. You do not want a fox, small dog etc putting it's paw down it and breaking it's leg. It needs filling properly afterwards.
Just don't online gamble!
https://news.sky.com/story/money-consumer-personal-finance-latest-13040934
No problem if you take cash out and drink to excess, smoke, give it to your dealer though! 😄
Look at the photos throughout this thread. "Bracing" is generally achieved by the little diagonals at the top. Either let in to the horizontal / vertical members with a joint detail (mortice & tenon, through housing etc) and / or screwed / bolted through. I'd use dog tooth washers btw if "clamping" braces on.
Filling up nicely with beech nuts about now I guess? 😂
Did you char the cladding yourself, looks lovely.
Folk here will be able to advise on DIY air tests ref the passivhaus bit.
Pay attention to the rear entry points marked red. You can easily get moisture in them through capillary action.
You'll probably be good with just the ACF-50 for a couple of years but a smear of silicone grease never goes amiss.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/servisol-AV-701-143UK-Silicone-Grease-50-White/dp/B0058223PU/ref=asc_df_B0058223PU/?
Deffo wrap the whole lot in amalgamating tape past those red marked bits.
Two pack floor paint is generally tougher than single pack.
If your worried about the stones having sunk to the bottom you could always hack out a foot square sample with a bfo grinder or core drill. You'd need to tip a liquid DPM in before re-concreting.
I'd try the Everbuild 403, I have good, longlasting results with their products.
I use their 202 integral waterproofer for most cement based mixes. Their Forever White and 825 (buff) silicones are excellent too.
It is likely laitance. Attached PDF:
I'd wire brush the surface, I used a cup brush in a grinder on my double garage floor. Then vacuum the floor and paint.
137-concrete-floors-laitance_web (1).pdf