Onoff

Well worth lubing all your window/door locks and hinges with some graphite spray periodically.

SWMBO.

Bolt fixings, flush pipe and inlet all CT1'd. The bolt fixing, rubber washers are a bit deformed but hey ho, too late now. I'll fill in the morning and if no leaks when I get home get it fitted and the copper feed connected.

Indeed. DW625e router here. Massive, heavy but so well balanced. Soft start etc. I'm a big lad but of all the tools I use this commands the greatest respect next to the chainsaw probably.

If there was a big gas leak in a super airtight TF house could it break free and float away? ?

Took a pair of Stilsons to get it off dry as I said. CT1 is is then. ?...you have to put a year!

But if the flush ever goes wrong it's a bin job surely? Saying that it'd be easy enough to cut it out I guess...

Exactly as @PeterW said: A good squidge of CT1 between the top washer and rubber cone. Then more CT1 and push it through the hole. Yet more from the other side then the washers and nut. All baby wiped off and left to set. Seemed to centre nicely at 160mm (the pan hole centres). It was definitely leaking down the threads of the flush assembly. Getting the plastic nut off needed a bfo pair of Stilsons. Thinking to reassemble that with lashings of Jet Blue Plus? It'll make it easier for later replacement etc.

So you reckon in effect stick the cistern to pan? Don't know about that... it'll never come apart thereafter. Thinking to just take the nuts and bolts out then reassemble with CT1 on the threads, under washers etc. Just not sure whether to let it dry for a day before fitting to the pan?

Or higher run if it's a Chinese digger...

Big holes in the vcl and insulation! ?

Sods Law I put a small one in and they'll want a bigger one for something else. Something else to come off the tax bill at least.

As Bette Midler said...

Too late, just ordered a 450mm2 fire rated one north of £50.

That's what I was getting at. If it's already tried to start it's "nearly there". No, I'll pull the sensor first thing when I get in tonight.

Reckon I'll have to lose that 4x2m joist that just clips the 114dia access hole I drilled. Red is the boiler outline, green is 4x2 frame/joist. Can just see the edge of the joist, top left of the hole I drilled. A circa 450x450 hatch as suggested is the way I'm going I think:

When it wasn't working the bolier would try to start then lock out. Pressing the reset button immediately after and it would generally start. Isn't it that the failing cap had initially released what charge it had and tried to turn the motor i.e. it's on the brink of starting when it again delivers "half a charge"?

Yep, clocked that, well I followed the cable from the terminal box. The 2 screws must be for a cable clamp.

From what I can make out there's two leak points. There's a drip on the end of the LHS bolt. Also coming down the threads of the big, centre, plastic flush assembly. I'll back off tomorrow and reseal. Thinking CT1 on the steel bolts where they pass through the cistern and then Jet Blue Plus on the thread of the plastic. Doesn't appear to be any tracking across the underside of the cistern. I'll do the other bolt too. Poor photo: Geberit it ain't!

That was my next question, how to remove. Will do in a while. Just put a shout out on the neighbourhood WhatsApp group and I've been for a night time limp to a neighbours who said he had his old oil boiler "next to the caravan". 4.5uF cap in that but duff. Looked in my garage and all too big /small, 80, 40, 30, 20,1 etc. (Didn't want to bugger about connecting in series). Then looked in the shed and I came up with a plastic body 4uF reading at 3.8uF (off a fridge maybe?) That's in there now albeit hanging loose and she's firing on and off like a good 'un. I don't think it's my imagination but firing up seems a bit snappier. Old one: Replacement: Now sitting with my foot in a bowl of iced water sipping hazelnut vodka for medicinal purposes! ? So that photo cell just pulls out? Two little Philip's screws on it?

Boiler, been OK all week now playing up again. SWMBO pressed the red reset button earlier and it "hesitated" to come on. I pressed it again and it came on. Bled from the screw in the pump, no air in it. Capacitor 4uF +/- 5% is showing 3.1uF so that's a bit down. Same on two meters. Flame sensor to check still. Off to the shed to look for a capacitor. IT DOESN'T HELP I THINK I'VE BROKEN MY LITTLE TOE. NO KIDDING! KICKED A CHAIR EARLIER. ?

Test rig! It's all clean and unchristened! Where the flush sits down through the donut, the pan is recessed: This, the detail under the cistern:

As I said on the "Mr Harris" thread": Jeremy from memory speaks Gaelic and "glan gluaisne" translates to clean motion. I'd say it's him. That and I think someone calls @glan gluaisne "Jeremy" on the Tesla forum.

Yep that's the plan. Taking it off in a mo after a tea break.

One piece 15mm feed for the cistern. This will come off a compression T I'll fit to the centre 15mm pipe (mains). Optical illusion, the T is loose though looks like it's fitted to the furthest 15mm pipe: Still got to re site the wiring centre for the lights. I'll get to the horrible, original wiring sometime. Tests out OK, just a mess.