Onoff

Is a horizontal UVC something you've considered? For example: https://www.gledhill.net/products/alternative-energy/stainlesslite-horizontal/

I recently bought one of those for looking down engine bores..... honest!

Don't forget the tea towel holder at the entrance for that truly authentic feel!

Tub as in tub of ready mixed?

Problem found. The casing round the magnet has disintegrated. Thermal trauma from an overheat / kettling occurrence or something in the water?

I come in from work to a wet room with no heating and have a shower. Try 11 - 13degC butt naked. Now that's cold.

Tease.

Left himself wide open you might say... (Wouldn't that be a proctologist?)

400,450 and 600mm are the standard spacing. Some builders will still work in inches, some take the dimensions to the centre of the joist, others between faces. So two chances of the joists being exactly the spacing you want, slim & f*** all. You'll likely need a sliver or more of packing. Be it little plastic ones or strips of timber. I would: -Decide roughly where you want your hatch -Refer back to your pictures as to whether there's any existing noggin there, you might be able to use it as the 3rd side leaving just one noggin to fit. -Use some strong diddy magnets to stick on the hidden plasterboard screws. That won't mean of course the screws are dead centre to the joist. It'll give an idea though -Cut an access hole smaller than for the hatch. -Measure from the edges of the cut hole to the inside faces of the joists / noggins. -Transpose to the ceiling in pencil -Choose your hatch. I'd suggest an insulated one. -Cut the hatch hole with respect to the pencil lines on the ceiling. -Fit it Not forgetting to have a good whinge along the way about how it's all too much for you and now you've this big hole in your ceiling! ?

Peter I think was getting at the fact I'd suggested an access hatch that clips to the edges of a hole cut in plasterboard. This as opposed to a proper loft hatch. My worry was if you got up into the loft space you could tread on the access hatch frame and damage the plasterboard edges. A proper loft hatch affixes to the timber joists. Peter is wondering if in fact there's enough room up there for you to climb in there even I think. If not it'll be a case of working off of steps, rolling out more fluffy stuff and probably pushing it into place with a long stick.

I've gone back and ordered one of these recip saws from Banggood. A couple of quid cheaper than the one I cancelled. The Wish link was a bit misleading I think. On the face of it £7.95 or whatever. Now gone up to £14 odd. With these sites the low price to grab your attention can be just for the blades. Or in the case of Wish the cheap price is for the 1000rpm model. Go for 3000rpm and it's nearer £30. I've ordered from Banggood (3000rpm) at £26.

Imho the wall has been built with the pillars separate and the infilling walls abutting them rather than being keyed in. It's then cracked on that abutting line. Certainly the upper courses. The lower 5 courses are engineering bricks, can't really tell what's going on there in terms of keying in. Probably doesn't have any wall starters used. You'll be lucky if there's a few nails banged in! See the pictures here, not quite your set up but see how the bricks of the infills and piers interlock. https://www.gardeningdata.co.uk/construction/brickwork/stretcherpier.php If you're going to repoint then mortar rake in a grinder then use a mortar gun. Follow the mortar gun instructions to the letter ref the mix and use a plasticiser. A video I found on YouTube: Tbh this particular gun has had some bad reviews but I can't fault it. My nephew in fact gave me his as he couldn't get on with it. What screwed him up I think is that he always adds a shovel of sharp sand to his mortar or render mixes. He also doesn't add plasticiser. Years back, not reading the instructions I tried putting a pure sharp sand / cement mix through another make of gun and it was so hard to squeeze out I cracked the barrel.

@jimmyhorns, your tight for space loft reminded me of this thread that might be of interest:

@jimmyhorns, welcome and apologies. You've probably heard every joke in the book!

You'll no doubt have a hand in it. Fingers in many pies so to speak.

If he treads on this type of hatch, from above, I reckon it could break away the plasterboard if that's all it'd clamped to. Mine is an access panel not a loft hatch. @zoothorn, look on YouTube for "Manthorpe loft hatch". For example: You really need to know your joist spacing. You might need to add packing pieces. I'd use some neodymium magnets to find the existing pb screws.

Maybe this type isn't for you then as this clamps to the plasterboard rather than screwing to the sides of the joists.

Just get a door snake and put it down when you go to bed.

@PeterW do you reckon this Reliance controller might have gone t!tS up? Usually I can advance any off the 3 channels; CH1, CH2 or HW and it'll show ADV, AUTO and the radiator or tap icon. Trying now to advance CH1 now and ADV comes up above AUTO but the radiator icon disappears. Any ideas? Have had a good few power cuts of late. Cheers EDIT: Ignore me possibly.....I might have got it wrong.....

I just fitted a 450x450 FlipFix hatch. A Doddle to fit. Press the cardboard template on the ceiling and draw round it with a Sharpie. Cut out the pb with a pad saw. Push the hatch up and tighten 4 screws. Job done. https://flipfix.co.uk/?

Got the hatch in this morning. If that's not good enough access I don't know what is. I can get up through there on a set of steps. I was making too much dust I thought with the multi tool, so resorted to a pad saw. Painted the cut edges with some D4 and left to dry. The FlipFix hatch is a doddle to fit: I filled where some old pipes went through with intumescent foam. Shot above the bathroom: I'll get BG back in now. Edit: There was some crap up there in the vicinity of the hatch, sawdust, bits of copper pipe and pb. That plus loads of bits of broken brick. Vacuumed it all away and left clean & tidy.

I know but I'm a sucker for cr@p and a perceived bargain. Down to 3 clone batteries now and tbh they seem pretty indestructible.

On balance, my overall experience (I ordered then cancelled and got refunded) with Banggood, is such that I would definitely order from them again. Still confused by the variation in price for what on the face of it is the same thing on Banggood and as @PeterWfound a 1/3 the price on Wish. The youngest daughter as an aside ordered a dress via AliExpress and that turned up/is fine.

Years ago I seem to remember having a sticky pump. It was something to do with a worn "key" on the pump. I replaced the pump though I think the (tiny) keys are in fact available separately.

Oil tank outlet is 6' - 10' above the boiler inlet. Pipe runs downhill, underground...somewhere. I always find it odd that when we run dry, after refilling, it's not a case of oil comes pi$$ing out at the bottom of the pipe(hill). I invariably have to suction it through.