Onoff

Our old Sharp 42" died after giving sterling service for many years. I'm always making dust and plan (one day ?) to knock the lounge diner into one plus build a big false chimney to house the AV bits and some structural support for the dormer above. Before then and in need of a telly I bought an Aldi special 50" for just over £200 I think it was. Sound was a bit crap but coupled with an old pc surround sound kit it's very watchable

Very nice. Mind that telly looks a bit lost ?

Not up to me, not my lathe. He doesn't want to drag the lathe away from the wall even so I can properly get to the motor.

Though I've had books 16 & 24 from the same Workshop Practice series for years, I recently bought this book: Very interesting so I tracked the author down and emailed him. Had a lovely response from him as to what he thinks is happening with the BiLs converter, how it works etc.

If you went carefully, and I mean very carefully, you could use your expanding foam gun to put some blobs here and there to keep the stacked stones in place whilst you render up against them. Remember less is more!

Some folk are more full of sh!t than others! ?

Do not use sharp sand EVER in a mortar gun! Just a cement/soft / builder's sand mix. https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-brick-mortar-gun/67965

Just like your hampton bends to the left! ?

Use a couple of bits of sacrificial timber and wedge between that. One thing that might work is beg, steal or borrow the biggest adjustable spanner you can. Slip it over the top of the bent plate and gently "tweak". The longer the lever the easier. Again put something under the jaws to protect the paint.

Nice to see a tidy site. Never been a fan of those trainer style safety boots though.

The balustrade will bend to suit, don't sweat it. Other than that you'll need to jack between the bottom of the stringers.

This is @pocster we're talking about so I doubt it very much.

Don't faff around, go buy some HsCo cobalt Starrett pilot drills. My go-to for drilling "metal" whether it be ali, mild or stainless. https://www.screwfix.com/p/starrett-a014c-pilot-drill/39752? Bosch do a quick change version. Careful as they do an HSS-G version too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-hex-shank-powerchange-hss-cobalt-pilot-drill-/52111? Get some cutting compound too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CT-90-Cutting-Tapping-drip-compound/dp/B005EF7W0C/ref=asc_df_B005EF7W0C/? RTD and Trefolex, Temaxol are other brands. Oh, and centre punch where you're drilling too.

Contiboard?

Could have simply been a weak mix (too much sand) or the weather has gotten at it, or the base wasn't properly cleaned and it didn't adhere. Or a combination of all 3. I know people who will chuck in one measure of sharp sand with the rest soft when they render. Makes for a harder render. Good luck trowelling it on and not pushing any of your wedged bricks in. I'd have filled the gaps as much as I could with a mortar gun. That'd hold it all together and make for a nice nobbly surface to render to.

No it's a strength thing. Soft sand makes for a weaker mix than sharp sand. If it helps then the sand you get in ballast is basically sharp sand. It's "sharp", coarse, has little bits of stone in it.

Existing or new? Would you consider in roof pv panels? You could then save on some "tiles". Don't know, weather wise if you could fit the trays now and panels later?

I've just emailed the author of this to see if he has any idea on these weird readings I'm getting on the phase converter. That 430V to earth on one phase is "correct" in that's how the phase converter is built. I measure it between the 415V output in the big transformer and earth. Brown and earth on the right go to the output. So it's "correct" I just don't understand! Well, I understand how the trannie steps it up from 230 to 415 but not how it doesn't upset the machines.

I'm tempted to post you some sample pots of sharp sand, builders sand and all in one ballast! ?

Agreed. If my old man had let me rewire his place when I offered he wouldn't be having to stoop down like he is now. Ditto lowering the switches. Any I move at home now go in at the new heights.

Must have been the fastest window fitters in the west did some of mine. When I removed the plastic trim the gaps were huge! Still a number to do.

I note you never show it from this angle! ?

Pretty sure they have specific socket and switch height recommendations under their Building Standards. Does Part M apply in Scotland?

Everyone needs to have a look at Section 1 of Part P. BCOs sometimes need reminding too. Parts P and M for reference attached. BR_PDF_AD_P_2013 (1).pdf BR_PDF_AD_M1_2015_with_2016_amendments_V3 (2).pdf