Onoff

Over the weekend I just volunteered my "union jack", tile cutting services to help my niece with her shower area. It's about 1200x800. Her tiles are a tad over 600x600. They imo had the opportunity to get it so right but don't "plan" hence make it up as they go along. The shower "tray" is concrete cast to falls like mine but not as flat. All goes to a long linear drain. Should have set it lower but instead have formed an upstand with houses bricks they now have to tile over / around. Considering they dug down and built the floor back up...doh! The two 800mm, facing walls are normal plasterboard but plastered and painted. Not even the green, moisture resistant stuff either! The 1200mm wall is rendered Celcon block. She has tanked the tray and internal corners but not done the rest of the walls. Two big tiles together won't quite cover the "tray" length". For the sake of adding another 12.5mm thick plasterboard they could of sorted it. Using a 10mm multipanel with edge and corner trims. God nows how well that will stick to the pb walls now they're plastered and painted! She's got tubes of white, Sticks Like Sh!t. Told them to ditch the bottom trim and bed the multipanel on loads of clear CT1 then run a bead of silicone that can be periodically renewed when it gets tatty. Best I could do. 3mm spacers. Just laid loose. Really think she should tank that big wall and tb the returns. I'd not have bothered plastering and painting: Took her half a tub of Aquaseal tanking membrane I've got left over and the rest of the tanking tape as she's only gone halfway up one internal corner.

Even if you have witnesses when you both agreed on the position of the new doorway, you will be in the wrong when it's done and she doesn't like it. Then you will have to move it. Ask me how I know.

Yes, potentially. I debated which way round to have the bath. This way would have put the pump reasonably accessible but you'd have had to climb over the taps: So taps are against the wall but with a "quick release" kit: With hindsight I could have perhaps lived with just blanking off the tap and waste holes with chrome caps. Better still would have been to have ordred the bath un-drilled! To get at my pump I will have to remove silicone, remove half the bath surround and lift out the bath. All doable, considered beforehand but still a mission. The original bath conrol box was mounted right undermeath the bath (go figure!). I removed it, extended all the cables and mounted the box in what will be a cupboard in the adjacent room. This room is to be gutted as in walls, floors, ceiling.

Oh yes! A cheap set of Bluetooth speakers in the ceiling. They sound really good. As the kind soul above pointed out we do lack heating in here. The UFH pipes, towel radiator and body dryer are all in place...just not connected to anything... (There may be movement on that front, SWMBO has FINALLY cleared the adjacent room, maybe I'll be digging it up soon!)

Quite nice to have the bath floor level with the bathroom floor. Also a little touch is to slope the sides in at the bottom. Consider future access to the pump etc: With mine I've had to make it so half the bath surround can be removed.

Not when I do them...

That would have been clash of the tiling tits!

A142 mesh?

They were a doddle to change tbh on the Tower valves.

I'd been through a few Tower/Grasslin ones that had died. Tbh that may have been through a system not being cleaned since it went in circa 1953. That and the fact my technique for compression fixings hadn't evolved. I now use Jet Blue Plus on compression exclusively. No PTFE. So far, great. Is there a case to try and get one where you can change the actuator / motor for a "universal" one without having to touch the plumbing?

Honeywell imho.

Don't turn it off, that's a mickey mouse idea...

Maybe @zoothorn should get a radio?

Says the Swiss cheese! (Lots of holes).

I'd deffo be using Gypframe metal stud for this. Much more stable I reckon than timber.

Is that Belle, aka Little Mixer? (Round and orange etc)

What would look good is a viewing panel set in the suspended ceiling, maybe some back lighting and you watch them grow over time.

Serious hat on now... How about builders band straps fixed to the inside of the skylight upstand. You could then timber frame around/below the skylight at whatever level. What about metal stud wall channel shot fired up into the slab?

Oh praise be there is a God!

You could wait for stalactites to form and fix to them...

I'd use a series of blue pen marks fixed to the concrete.

Not if you have a hedge / can't be seen from the road... ?

Very likely true. I have amalgam scatter in my face, way beyond the root tip of the tooth in question than was root filled (bodged) and from the subsequent apicoectomy. Really throws medical staff when I've had neck x-rays. I was actually asked if I have a shrapnel injury! ? Brushed against a rusty ac grill on site many years ago. Got an forearm full of metal splinters. One particular one would periodically swell up and often hurt. Since my Covid booster it's started growing to a dark purple pimple that I then burst, it'd heal, swell, repeat. Looked blacker than usual a couple of weeks back. Burst and through the blood could see something black. Head torch, swab, needle and pointy tweezers. Weirdest feeling and sound of the needle touching metal. Got two of this sized bit out. One more to go. Been in there years!

I cut scaffold poles, steel conduit, angle iron and box section with my Rage 3. Handles it with ease. Beware the hot flying metal as aforementioned!

Erm...try a proper DeWalt "chop saw". It'll pi$$ all over Einhell, Wickes, Evolution etc for accuracy. Try getting spares for Erbauer! ?