Onoff

How are the block joints made airtight?

I'm in the market for a set of 3G patio doors. Yes the place is heat leaky like a sieve but I have to start somewhere. This as part of a lounge / diner knock through. Very rough dimns of the patio doors are 2030h x 2070w. The height will need to increase as the lounge floor is at the moment much too high compared to the dining room (floor), in fact there's a ramp. (It's a lot more than a simple knock through tbh). Ideally I'd like to up the window width to circa 2400mm but I'm not sure how wide the lintel is above. Should I look at "off the peg" or go bespoke once I have a size? I've heard 3G patio doors are rather heavy on the rollers?

What would happen if we just said b@ll@cks? Perhaps we'd get banned from Eurovision.

Ours is grill, oven, microwave.

Got a big Sanyo combi microwave. Our second one as the first just wore out. It was our primary oven for a long time. Think they're great personally.

Next time I'd just empty a can of ACF-50 into the box section then paint and insulate the outside.

I used a foam gun and I reckon it squirted 4 or 5' up the box from each end so it certainly filled it. You can do it with an extension tube. I could see up both ends of my box section.

Is this then going to be over insulated? I foam filled some 100x100x6 gate posts and they sweated like a bastard on the outside. Literally condensation running down the outside. I filled from both ends. They were freestanding outside though.

I'm truly lost as to why you even need to glue. The copper to the board. Once the screws are through the board/pipe and unto the wall the copper is sandwiched and can go nowhere.

The copper pipe will just sit on the screws for support

Exactly. The way the Wundtherm spiel above puts it, to get the values quoted there is no insulation underneath, just the 16 or 20mm system boards

The overlay panels would still be 3D printing! 😂 Seriously though, question still stands. Is my 175mm floor insulation with pipes in 100mm slab much better than the Wundtherm? Slab takes longer to heat etc, Wundtherm must be putting heat into the room quicker maybe etc. Are there higher downward losses with the Wundtherm (heating worms etc)? ???

What was the point of me digging down then building the floor back up with150mm of pir + the 25mm of eps when I did my bathroom given figures like this from that link? 20mm of Wundtherm Premium+ has an R-value of 0.447 (+/- 2%) 16mm of Wundatherm Premium+ has an R-value of 0.379 (+/- 2.8%)

& make sure any interconnecting house to garage door is good, in terms of insulation and air tightness.

Garage doors are notorious as being big, uninsulated, heat leaky things. I presume the outside of the garage didn't get EWI?

I cut that type of board with an old circular saw and 'standard" wood blade. That and carbide grit jigsaw blades from Toolstation.

I used to use PTFE tape. Now I don't. I push the pipe into the fitting and smear with Jet Blue Plus. I then push the olive up to the fitting. I then apply more Jet Blue Plus. Only then do I put the nut on. Wipe off the excess with a rag. Haven't had a failure yet. Jet Blue Plus is even in my incoming water main joint that's at 8bar. It was the only thing that cured it leaking. Some favour other alternatives Steamseal etc. I'd always check it's suitable for potable water. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/center-center-jet-blue-plus-500-g/

I warned SWMBO that constantly having the downstairs stat on 30deg wasn't a good ide... F*** this I'm off up the pub.

Someone check my maths please! End of October I had 2000 litres /439 gallons. Down to nom 454L / 100 gallons. So in effect, in 4 months 1546L of heating oil used on CH & DHW. That's £248 a month based on the previously paid 64.25p/L in October. If it were at the new 92p/L it'd be £355.58 per month on heating oil. That's sobering. I think I'm "in the lead" on here in that case! 😂 Tbh it's probably worse than that as the tank wasn't completely empty in October when I had the 2000L.

With hindsight I should have slid a piece of timber up inside before I put the infill piece in the bottom! I was thinking to maybe hole saw out the side where the handle is going and glue in a big round of decent timber. Use c'sunk screws from the other side to fix the round. Then fix the handle (into the big round).

Not possible. Inside face of the door is tight against a perpendicular trim piece that covers the gap in the first pic, when shut and only about 3mm clear(of the trim piece) when open.

Don't joke. "Holes" are a thing. An ex boss was apprenticed at Redpath, Brown & Co. Was sent to get some "holes" and thinking they were taking the pi$$ refused. Got docked a day's pay etc. "Holes" as they were colloquially known, were punchings where a few were saved for welding up incorrect holes.

How big a hole do you need to drill as a pilot? No.1 use decent bits. DeWalt Extreme are superb. Use a cutting compound. Dip the drill end in before you start then periodically as you drill. I'd post links but can't seem to paste them in now???

This old door is fighting me all the way! It's a hardboard skin with hardboard separating strips and softwood infills around the edges and lock area. I want to put one of these 300 mm grab bars, as a handle, on the outside: How best to affix? Can't really have anything like nuts or bolts heads projecting the bathroom side, even by a small amount, as it would interfere with the sliding door closing. Just worried if he grabs it to steady himself he'll pull it off if only into hardboard.

Ta. Hopefully it'll be lower than where the original lock has been chomped out. I'll fill everything and give it a quick re-gloss. Main thing is if he collapses in there he won't fall against and block the door.