Simplysimon

i thought it was 'we're going painted' on cost grounds but if possible something better? not painted

parana pine is endangered, go straight to oak, you could get them laminated in thin strips

why keep 10m of something which is of very little use?

get a chopping board similar to the one James Martin has, that'll bring the worktop height up past anything you were expecting. easier, cheaper and no falling out with architect

welcome @A M putting @Stu-UK might get his attention but he's not been on since aug '20

i've always thought a turbine outside everyones house in the water main would be a good idea

expanding foam with some stainless mesh so they don't chew through, trim back and cover with lead mate ot black silicone to disguise

nope, been on many jobs where you sometimes wonder how the floor is still up, know the areas and dims as to where to bore/notch, some people don't or just don't care

those who 'profess to be sparkies and plumbers', those who 'work with electricity and water' any better? ?

is the whole roof flat? looking at chimney if yours and it's a pitch roof with extension i suppose there isn't much chance of increasing run. the other option would be to re-roof from ridge to gain extra height.

apologies to @ProDave, @Nickfromwales and others i've forgotten, i do wish sparkies and plumbers appreciated this prior to renovations ?

we put a 6x9m steel portal frame a couple of years back and it cost a hell of a lot less than £70k+ even with the price of steel going up. you will/should be able to do a lot of it yourself, it's just big meccano. 1m3 pads for steel bases can be levelled with a water level, that's what i did as i don't have an out door laser, and a manitou to lift the steel, see a friendly farmer. go for fibre cement roof to stop condensation, i know you get anti- con. roofing but fibre is much quieter in the rain. plenty of places do roller doors, either elec or manual.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185267209428? https://www.steelbuildings.co.uk/products/steel-building/? a bit smaller than you're looking at but also a lot cheaper! shutter for slab and get and two lorries of on-site mix, don't forget to put a dpm down.

contact https://www.wundagroup.com/underfloor-heating/ and ask for a quote. they will specify the spacing

another for the jura, we've had an ipressa c50 for years. it gets cleaned when it tells me and a descale every couple of years, doesn't need it but it keeps it happy.

more accessible place, inside base unit next to appliance?

and even better if the sides can be splayed as well

have you priced this, blown cellulose in a 350mm i beam roof would cost 4-5k for that roof size, less than your 200mm quilt.

get some stainless insect mesh, rollup and stuff into holes?

another option would be this

yes, what it would originally be built with

welcome @SNO man, no experience with ICF, but you've mentioned a term which will have others flocking to reply!?

the biggest issue with exposed stone buildings, how to insulate. you are normally buying them for their looks so tend to rule out ewi, however, interstitial condentation has already been mentioned by @A_L and this really needs to be taken into account if moving the dew point by fitting iwi. has it been re-pointed with cement mortar as that will stop breathability? being sandstone there will be a fair chance of having joist ends getting soft.

21m to the furthest do you mean that the pipe to the furthest point taken from maifold is then returned to cylinder? that being the case the other points won't have the return from them, therfore cooling down. i was under the impression the pumped return would reduce heat loss as the drawn water to the tap doesn't cool down therefore requires less heating up and had almost instant hot to tap.

why do you need an RSJ? are there no supporting walls downstairs? here the requirement can be as easy as increasing the depth of the joist by gluing and screwing a suitable depth of timber to the top of the existing joist.

surely the angle of repose is subject to the type of soil?