SuperJohnG

thanks. It wont be that close, I have lots of space, but it'll sort of sit in the middle of a nice open area, rather than over at the side somewhere.

thanks all, very helpful. @ProDave how do you find the noise from the condor?. This is the one that seems to make the best sense for me, however I don't really like the big air vent on top, If I don't take it out with the ride on then sure as hell my son will when he starts learning to use the mower. The tank is going to have to sit close out my back door in the middle somewhere rather than hidden away in a corner. @PeterStarck thanks, the WPL seemed to make good sense too, only downside being that again it's a remote mount for the blower which I don't like. But I like the top on it better as it's flush.

I'm just reigniting this thread again as I am at this stage nearly. I liked the look of the graf unit - but the separate pump units and controller perplexes me, surely it's more of a hassle having a pump and controller that's not part of the tank? I don't see the value here. @ProDave How is the condor unit? seems to be a good price at £2k for a pumped version, and the air and water pump seems to be inside the tank? is that right. You just install and then run power to it? seems very similar to the Biopure unit but £1k cheaper. Biopure has the air pump directly inside tank lid. There is also the WPL diamond for a similar price too and same design as far as I can see.

I think so, leads me right back there doesn't it. Yes. That was my planning either case, I.meant to add a picture of them. Can just go downstream of outlet and protect when required. Fairly simple and cheap I think that's definitely going to be a better option too, gives me the freedom and less worry about being able to get it within these tight tolerances.

@HerbJ this looks great. everyrhing looks like a fantastic finish.

I've also now reread my OP... I should really focus on fixing my spelling and grammar before posting. Jesus.

I'd originally had it at the back of the house. But moved it to the front as it made sense as it was downstream. I can getbit closer but was trying to move it out the way as such from the front view and also I have my borehole wellhead between the current position and on the drainage route there. Maybe I'd just be better to move it back to the rear. Shorter run for power and drainage and deals with the fall issue straight away and reduces costs for groundworks.

I'm rapidly approaching starting work on site. Civils mate who is doing groundworks called yesterday to say he could start next week if I wanted, but I haven;'t yet engineered the life out my drainage and levels and hence I am not quite prepared. I've a large flat plot, and using Treatment plant and a direct discharge into a burn (SEPA approved). I'd deliberately set the house 'into the' ground rather than on it, so that it looked natural rather than sitting on top of the ground, and also to avoid excessive extra infill material if I raised it up. However this leavesme limited amount if space from FFL to the normal water level in the burn, approx 1.25m. I am following the popular Kore foundation system route and expecting that I need to drop all drainage out through the bottom, rather than put sewage pipes out walls. The issue I have is that I am struggling to get the fall required and also protect against backflow from the burn. Normally the burn is only 50mm deep, but when there is heavy rainfall and storms it can rise 1m. The distance from the drainage through the slab to the TP is 45m, and this is where i am struggling to achieve the minimum 80:1 fall on the sewage outlet. See diagram below, some buildup notes Depth of Kore system - approx 400mm Hadcore and sand blinding: 250mm From here, I have guessed that I can leave the drainage pipe 50mm below the underside of the hardcore. Now using a GRAF one 2clean (It'll be that or equivalent, biopure, etc). From where the septic tank is to be sited, I drop it 675 below surface (535 + 140), I f i assume that the drainage pipe top is 50mm clear below the bottom of hardcore, and it's a 110mm pipe. Then that means the fall height is 465mm (625-160) which is over 45m giving a ratio of 96:1, which is a good shallower than it needs to be. Second issue being, even with the TP being as high as possible here, during storms I will backflow the tank. I think this can easily be dealt with using a backflow device (picture below) the water usually comes down within a few hours - however I suppose it could stay up for a day if we had a prolonged period of rain (I'm on the west coast of Scotland - so highly likely). Now possible solution is to drop the tank down further 200mm - which would give a much more reasonable (465+200= 665 fall height) 67:1 over the 45m. However now I'm very close to the water level (205mm) constantly and regularly it would come up above the outfall. I was trying to make sense of the best route here by asking - but in writing this thread I think I have answered my own question. It would seem that the best plan is to drop the Tank down the extra 200mm and then just changed it from a gravity type to a pumped solution, then this all goes away? or do I do somethign different and pop the waster out the wall - which won't seem to be an elegant solution? In either case I'll need a backflow device, regardless for peace of mind. I've attached the site plan and foundation plan for reference. Apologies it might be a little disjointed and hard to follow...I've been rattling this around in my dreams all last night and needed to put it on paper to work it through. 724-11 Site Plan.pdf 724-13 Foundation Plan.pdf

You could check Russell timber frame who are in Glasgow. They do similar doors to Rational etc. Don't know if its just aluclab timber they do only though. Worth a check.

@Alister84 its sorted out through ecology. However it is a local surveyor who will do it. (Allied surveyors for you likely as you are close to me). If you have granted PP it will drastically increase the value. If i was you I wouldn't progress with Ecology to the next stage until you have PP?.

As a validation of this. I have 340 sqm of roof, which results in just under 10k slates to be laid, 75mm headlap and standard size of 400 x 250 is. Planning cupa heavy 3's, assuming I do battens. All quotes include leadwork and labour. Cheap quote - 6k (self employed, local guy well known, medium quality level but could swing to low or high quality depending what guys he outs on site.) Mid quote - 10k (self employed, unknown to me, recommended by cupa rep and has houses I can view and have seen pics of in local area. High level of finish with good grading of slates and finish) High quote - 15k (two roofing companies,.work looks good but high cost). All central belt scotland

Always seem confusing all the different views and additions. Would be good to have a guide for all the parts. I'm a hydraulic engineer and have access to hydrosym for drawing schematics. I'm planning on doing a schematic for my system (UVC/ASHP/UFH). I'm quite happy to draw a standard circuit and share for everyone as a guide.

K rend is the brand. Silicone type is just one of their types..its a much thinner system and marketed as a premium finish. Thats all I can add at the moment, I am planning a silcone render finish from k rend or equivalent but not for a few months yet.

Took me a minute before I realised there wasn't a problem with the picture loading here.. it was a colour swatch. ?

Thats would be great @Dan F

My friend and his dad are building a garage/new gym in the garden. So far great job and pretty meticulous detail, however I raised one area of concern last week and they were thinking the same. It a stick build with masonary outer leaf. They used an 8 x 2 for the ridge beam which needed to be joined as the garage is quite long. However they joined it with a nail plate and during the build putting the rafters on (they sit in line with ridge board not on it) they noticed it was sagging at that point. I had a look but I had a bit of a concern around joiningg it with a nail plate and the load applying a torsional shear around the nails. I'm a mechanical engineer and my input was to ensure the shear load was reacted by a clamping force, by adding two outer sections (cheeks) at the join of the same timber profile and bolting right through. However it is not my area of expertise. The concern being, its sagging 10-15mm already, but the roof is to be loaded out with slates, so will be heavy. There are currently no collar or rafter ties. I think they need rafter ties, to stop the walls slapying, but I wanted to ensure there was no extra deflection on the ridge beam. garage is 7m long. 4m wide. any thoughts/ advice appreciated. Picture attached.

Agreed. haha, totally. something, same same but different. I think these look spretty good. We will be white inside, simply as we don't want wood, albeit I like the look, I feel white would allow us to choose what we want later inside. I think it is , different tones etc. My soon to be new neighbour has a Yellow Rolls Royce Wraith and Just got a Yellow Lamborghini Urus too. They match his company...but they are not particularly nice. I think these look mega. Specifically suit little coastal towns where they wouldn't be frowned upon and would fit right in. If I coudl I would but just wouldn't fit in with us (and planning would have a heart attack) Architect telling me the same, but I just can't see how it'll blend well. I feel it would be too stark. Cache 22 with all colours, is there any that don't age badly? unless you have a traditional build. Anything contemporary I don't think ages well.

Great write up thanks. Hoping yo possobly do the same myself in 6 months.

I loke the idea of a green. But think I'd defo need to possibly mock it up to see it with the white render before committing.

I'm close to picking a window supplier and hence spent the last few weeks looking at windows. We have aluclad and had planned standard grey 7016 on the outside as it seems contemporary and the safe bet. However part of me wants to buck this trend, its a bit boring and I don't want it to be just same same. I'm not looking for anything extreme like cool pink or anything...but something that will add interest, fit with the setting and stand the test of time. Anyone done anything different to grey? Any pics. House is rural Scotland, very large plot with a render finish and siberian larch cladding. Its meant to be white render but now I'm even thinking I want a different tone here too.....

Looks great. Sitting out on that deck will be cracking with the view .....apart from the midges no doubt!

Question being why do you want to replace it?. If you have an existing approval you can currently stick with this and leave it alone.. If you need to move it then you can think of doing a sewage treatment plant as it is much better effluent discharge. If you have clay soil as above you can do a percolation test (regardless of soil type). I did my SI last week. I had however already applied for a new discharge into a burn that runs through my site...but my justification for discharging into the burn on the application was because the burn was close. Apparently thats not good cause from SEPA. Anyhow....done SI and we have clay and high water table...ill be discharging into burn. I was glad as I didnt want a soakaway,.pointless when I have a burn and I'm buying a sewage treatment plant.

Overheating in a PH is usually due to solar gain (sun heating the house) this is either through the windows. Whereby you would add overhangs and a brise soleil. Or decrement delay (the time is takes heat to pass through your walls) not being sufficient. Which can both be bad if you have a house thats full of insulation. It's about getting the balance right. For thermal mass..its about how long you can retain heat in material. A good example being a potato ? ..if you've ever eaten a potato that's too hot and it sticks to the roof of your mouth and burns it off (everyone has done this!)....thats what something with high thermal mass is.

I'm wondering if the OP is thinking the latter. Its something I wonder at the moment. I'm in a 1975 thermalite block house. External leaf os brick but all internal walls bring this thermalite block (which is great to mount stuff on IMO). Im going to have a SIPS build with battens and plasterboard and whilst I'm excited about the low energy, I'm slightly concerned that I won't have the same solid feel on the internal walls. Welcome @Mako plenty to read and understand here.

Welcome.