Triassic

Mine is stood on two breeze blocks at the front and 1.2m tall piers at the back. I slide mine down a slope, then used a bottle jack to raise it slowly, 150mm at the time, using temporary timber packing. Once level, I built the piers out of second hand bricks. It’s stood there for three years so far. ps - the piers don’t have any foundations, other than a 2foot square paving slab.

First may I start by thanking everyone for their contributions to this thread, for me a photo paints a thousand words. KISS UFH here we come! Second, thanks for the photo of the KISS approach to the electrics, could someone post a photo of their approach to wiring up their Willis heating system and describe how it works.

I'm not sure, I did read that it was recommend, not sure why?

@Jeremy Harris, @ProDave, @vivienz and @dpmiller Does anyone have a photo showing Willis heaters being used for UFH? including a photo of the plumbing to the manifold. Do you need the UFH manifold blending valve in such an installation? Do you need a re circulation loop in the pipework to stop the Willis heater short cycling?

@newhome Interesting! How did that discussion go with the insurer? Who was the insurer? I initially insured the place for 24 months, assuming I'd be finished by now! I've started first fix and have a "we will be in by Christmas" deadline being imposed on me by the wife. Ive just had a call back from Protek Insurance and they will do twelve months for £950.

My container is run off an extension lead from the garage, the plug it’s feed from is on a circuit protected by an RCD. The extension lead is inside a duct so as to protect it.

After a bit of haggling I’ve got my insurance quote for twelve months covers down to £1291. How-come the price doubles when you renew?

I was wondering, could it be an airlock? The blending valve simply allows cool return water to mix with the hot boiler water, so even if it’s stuck open or closed it shouldn’t stop hot water entering the system?

We’ve just got some quotes back and the insurance costs for Twelve months have doubled, from £620 to, £1310. I clearly need to talk to the insurer tomorrow to find out what’s going on!

I’ve done some digging and think the rebuild cost, assuming the insurance assumes a main contractor rebuilds the whole lot, should be around £620,000 ( wow I hadn’t realised my time was so valuable!).

I've finally completed my MVHR design ! All I need to do now is buy a MVHR unit. Any suggestions regarding make? I'm after a unit sized around 410m3/h. Ive looked at VentAxia and Domus so far, any other suggestions?

We need to renew our self build insurance for another twelve months, the insurer has asked what the rebuild cost is and suggested we use the RICS rebuild calculator. Having played about with the calculator and clicked the various help buttons, I find it does not cover externally clad timber frame construction, or four storey houses. Our fourth storey is a single room (sturdy) in the roof. We also have a walk out basement and that’s not covered by the calculator either. Any suggestions as to how to calculate the rebuild cost of a none RICS standard construction timber frame house?

@Oz07 I get your point. I’m thinking I’ll go with BOC Ventilation, as they appear to be well thought of on here.

Does anyone have an electrical diagram using contractors? My electrician starts in few weeks time so would like to give him something.

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I’m starting to look at prices and placing orders. Ive found plenum are £5 each suitable for 75mm duct pipe. This set me to wondering, are the plenum from different manufacturers all made to the same standard size and conversely, is 75mm ducting from different manufacturers/ suppliers all the same size? I would hate to buy plenum from one firm and find they aren’t compatible with another’s pipe.

Your Hand was in the way! Couldn't see the loop. Where are feed and return? 1 - 2 -3 - 4 On 4 -3 - 2 -1 Off KISS!

Could you position the pump on the highest manifold so the head would reduced to a minimum, say 100mm, thus reducing the likelihood of an air lock. An AVV positioned on this manifold would also help.

I do wonder about a lot of these “tech” based products, how long will they last before they get bricked. Will we ever see old Tesla’s on the road, or will they be killed off as they will no longer be supported?

I might just follow your lead and fit a Willis heater in the short term, so as to get some heat into the house. I’m at first fix stage, so plan to put the pipework and electrics in place for an ASHP. I’ll fit a non-MSC ASHP, if I can source one at the right price. As with many self builds, money is tight, so let me know if you spot any ASHP bargains!

Very environmentally conscious of Sonos, not!

Why two heaters? Half the cost if you only use one!? Has anyone looked at the life cycle cost of operating the Willis Heater compared to purchasing and operating an Air Source Heat Pump? I was thinking I'm 62 years old, how many years could I run the Willis heater before I reach the point where it would have been more sensible to buy a ASHP and all the associated kit.

How is this connected WIFI or hard wired? If hard wired, how many core cable size

Thanks for the replies regarding the boost options. I have a vaulted ceiling in the kitchen family room. I was thinking of positioning the inlet and extract vents at around 2m above the floor. I was thinking that I could have the extract rate slightly higher than the input rate, in that way the air flow would be from the family side of the room to the kitchen extract. Is 2m too high given that the peak of the vaulted ceiling is around 4 m tall?

Looking next at the boost function. Some mention having a button to press, for others the boost comes on when the light in the bathroom is switched on, others us a RH sensor. Which is best practice, simplest method (foolproof!) cheapest?