Triassic

Yes they are! So no repair possible. Having checked the insulation resistance of the pump and the Willis I’ve concluded that the pump I may be at fault. Just off to get a new one.

I’ve purges all the loops and they are all fine. I then applied pressure to the hot manifold and got water out of all but two of the points. Having removed the red collar from round the flow indicator I found that if you unscrewed the plastic flow indicator about 1/2 a term the port opened and water began to flow..

Static pressure. The flow is reasonable. My main concern is water pressure for showers, is it enough for a reasonable shower?

I’ve just measured our mains water pressure and it’s 2.2 bar. Is this good, bad or average?

Thanks for the responses, I’ll try the mains purge approach and see if that works.

I’ve recently commissioned my UFH and two of the flow indicators aren’t working. In the photo below you can see the left hand indicator has no water in it and the flow and return pipework is cold, even with the valve fully open. Has anyone got a cross sectional diagram of these valves and flow indicators, as I need to strip them and get them working.

Are the elements easy to change?

I’m starting installing the bathroom very soon. I’m installing 10mm thick tiles over an electric under floor heating mat and a decoupling layer. Ideally I’d like to set the shower tray low enough for a lip free transition from the surface of the finished tiles. Can anyone suggest how thick the UFH mat, decoupling layer and adhesive is likely to be?

I've finally got my Willis powered under floor heating working. But!! The earth leakage device on the split fuse board trips randomly. I switch the pump and Willis heater on and it will happily work for 10 to 20 minutes then trips for no obvious reason. I’ve double checked all the wiring and swapped the earth leakage device. Has anyone experienced similar, what should I be checking/replacing next?

The meter can’t get a signal as it’s in a cell phone dead spot. I told them it wouldn’t work but they did insist it would. I only got the th8ng so I could access cheaper tariffs!

My self build plods slowly towards the finish line and I’ve just commissioned my Willis powered under floor heating. Eventually I will fit smarter controls that will allow me to take advantage of cheap night time electricity, a bit like Terry does. Having said that, I’m on my second smart meter and none of them have ever communicated back to the supplier, due to the meter being in a cell phone black spot. So the question is do I need a smart meter to take advantage of the cheap overnight tariffs or will Economy 7, or similar?, be suitable?

I’ve just got my Willis heater and pump up an running. I used a second hand pump I had in stock, but it keeps tripping the circuit breaker. Looking online there are loads of circulating pumps ranging from £45 to over £300. Aren’t all circulation pumps not equal ? If not, what should I be looking for in a pump?

I’m confused, why you would need two circ pumps so close together?

One thing about Rationel, the inside paint covering is a bit on the thin side, we can see quite a few of the engineered timber laminations and fingers joints through the paint in many of our windows.

I’ve just been reminded by my interior designer, (wife) she had the kitchen/family room, dining room and bathrooms designed, layout, colours, tiles, worktops and flooring, before we met with the architect. The house was essentially designed around these features. We’re at the plaster stage now and colour charts and wall paper samples keep appearing. She tells me, only a bloke would point a house in one colour! Harman, I’m sorry your struggling to get an answer to you original question. If only you’d asked about thermal mass, air source heat pumps or under floor heating! It’s a bloke thing, sorry......

That’s something I need. What sort of cable did you lay to the gate?

Has anyone got a list of the household items that can be integrated in Home Assistant?

Once the plasters on the walls its too late to worry about design issues. The design needs to be agreed with the client before the build starts. Plan things like service runs, location of plant room, levels of insulation, the use of modern technology to heat water and space heating, solar PV, light and shade etc. MHVR, ASHP. Fabric First .... The list goes on.

7kw. I'm now thinking of using Willis heaters for the UFH and save the ASHP money. How long before batteries are cheap enough to use an a dump for excess PV?

Do we know which Sunamp he had? Has anyone else used Jeremy's design themselves?

Herb, thanks for posting Jeremy's later Sunmap layout, I had the earlier out of date version. Am I correct to say he didn't actually use the Stiebel Eltron inline heater? It was only a backup?

I am going Sunamp. Mind you, i've not bought it yet. I was just mulling over alternative options! This happens when you come back to your hot water design after 18 months!

The other question is ventilated or un-ventilated cylinder?

I'm after a 7kw, I could go smaller if I separate out the UFH and use an inline Willis heater just for that.

The owner of our local renewable company never gets his hand dirty, everything he installs is done by sub-contractors. Clearly the margins are such that he simply acts as a sales man - nice car, nice clothes and nice house!