joe90

Not specifically, the reference to the “first inch” is that the first inch gives X amount of benefit, 2 inches will not give 2 x X benefit (diminishing returns). There’s some on here that built and insulated a 300mm cavity, I compromised and full filled a 200mm cavity (near Cornwall is quite mild). With regard breathability there are others here who know more about interstitial condensation when insulating and where to put airtight layers and will be along shortly….once insulation is up to a “good“ standard droughts become more of an issue to keeping a house warm.

Not only are they supporting a few bricks they are also supporting the wall plate and roof trusses. You need to establish how bad the cracks are, I would imagine if severely cracked (right through) the roof would have sagged by now.

The first inch of insulation gives the greatest return and gives a better chance to make draught proof. (It’s called diminishing returns). Eaves can be extended if you want to EWI.

Hi, we have all been there, I knew absolutely nothing when i bought my first house, it was so bad only the local council would give me a mortgage (to save it from falling down). Roll on 65 years and 6 houses later, I built (with help from a main contractor) my own passive esc house. This forum has been invaluable to me with my build and remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking. No one here is selling anything and will give first hand real world knowledge. Welcome to the mad house……

I cleared the topsoil from the footprint before I started, a/ to reduce height ready for insulation and concrete b/ topsoil is more likely to give way when trying to keep trenches clear. Yes list and mark out all the utility trenches at the same time.

I have to ask, how would BC know the ASHP was configured to cool, others here have said all ASHP,s can be reverse engineered to provide cooling 🤷‍♂️

What size extension can I build without planning permission in 2024? However, any rear extension classed as large (longer than 4m for detached or 3m for everyone else), needs prior approval which involves consulting your neighbours on the development. There are also height parameters. The extension needs to be less than 4m in height (or less than 3m if within 2m of a property boundary). and 50% rule: extensions or outbuildings over and above the original house must not exceed 50% of the curtilage (the land around the original house) No higher than the highest part of the roof of the existing dwelling house (eaves or ridge) however this is usually for residential purposes, as theirs is a business I am not sure how they stand, perhaps best to contact planning to ask the question.

Well you can only put them where you have access, generally they go at a point furthest from the door (to ensure air circulation) but I am sure it won’t make a massive difference +1, me too.

This does seem daft, is there a practical answer as to why 🤷‍♂️

I don’t see why, if anything the exhaust air will be above ambient temps which will help the ASHP but the ASHP fan will disburse air greatly plus the amount of air from the exhaust is minimal compared to the air circulated through the ASHP.

As I posted earlier PV output is restricted to current output by the inverter, it’s implied by the above that total output is limited but I don’t get that as surely the DNO will want whatever it can get (but limited by current at any one time.) I,e someone with a split array (east, south, west) will give greater output over longer periods of time but may have the same number of panels as someone else only facing South. Please explain.

That’s mad, fully triple glazed is only good? Should be very good, etc etc. when I had my last EPC on a rental property I could not be there but some “assumed” things were very wrong , I found the assessor and challenged his rating which he changed on my insistence, so you can challenge the rating.

🤮

Yes to all above, I have photo cells to stop the gates hitting anything in their way when they close, I have a fob with a button to open and a button to close. Gate stops give the gates somewhere positive to close too (but don’t make them too high or you might catch a low exhaust). I don’t have a beacon (OTT in my opinion for a house) but I have wired in LEDs on both gateposts that come on in the dark as I have no street lighting and want the posts visible in the dark. i have also wired in a secret button so if family turn up when I am not here with a fob they can let themselves in. I keep one fob stuck to the dashboard and one in the house.

I won’t/don’t have a tumble drier, much prefer washing on the line, however I am a convert to using a de humidifier to dry washing on a wet day.

From my reading a downside of a GSHP is the compressor being indoors (noise) and brine costs. Some/most ASHP,s can do passive cooling.

I agree, electric UFH run by a controller (temp and timings) it’s what I did in my en suite, very effective.

Are you not considering an ASHP?

But again your output to the grid is controlled by the inverter(s) surely so it does not matter what output your panels are ? (Please correct me if i am wrong).

If your inverter sends the same output does it matter what the panels generate? (And who is going to notice you changed them?) can you measure the drop in efficiency you perceive? Aluminium frames can be polished/paintec.

At least you can use PV to power it when it’s required unlike our heating demand when not sunny 🤷‍♂️

Or their circumstances changed (like mine did 🤷‍♂️).

I too do this, no problem at all Smart, I don’t think so, dumb more like it.

So your saying the costs of generation are marginal compared to the network?

Sorry to digress but love the Cobra 😎